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Theik acquaintance of the morning made them feel at home 

AT ONCE. — Page 109. 



JEAN CABOT IN THE 
BRITISH ISLES 


BY 

GERTRUDE FISHER SCOTT 

n 

AUTHOR OF “JEAN CABOT AT ASHTON" 


ILLUSTRATED BY ARTHUR O. SCOTT 



BOSTON 

LOTHKOP, LEE £r SHEPAKD CO. 



Published, August, I913 


^ 8 . 


Copyright, 1913, by Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Co. 


All rights restrved 


Jean Cabot in the British Isles 


*WorwooD t>XCB6 

BERWICK & SMITH CO. 

NORWOOD, MASS. 

U. S A. 

^/<h> 

©CI.A350804 


Contents 


OXAPTSK PlOX 

I Commencement Week at Yale . . i 

II Getting Started i6 

III Getting Acquainted 40 

IV The Captain's Birthday Party, and 

Other Things 61 

V Seeing Chester 83 

VI In Shakspere’s Land 113 

VII Up to London 143 

VIII Days in London 168 

IX Into the Heart of Scotland . . . 199 

X Into Loch Katrine, and Further De- 

velopments 222 

XI What it Really Meant to be Sea- 

sick 246 

XII Through the Gap of Dunloe . . . 266 

XIII Last Days in Ireland 284 

XIV Homeward Bound ..... 1 . 306 




Illustrations 


Their acquaintance of the morning 
made them feel at home at once. 

(Page 109) Frontispiece ^ 

FACING PAGE 

“ Why, Captain, are you an artist, too ? ” . . 72 

An elderly gentleman politely raised his hat . 148’^ 

What was their surprise to discover that it was ^ 
no other than Mr. Atherton 210 

Quick as a flash the man’s coat and hat were 
off 232 

Jean was leading the gay cavalcade . . . 272 1/ 







Jean Cabot in the British 
Isles 


CHAPTER I 

COMMENCEMENT WEEK AT YALE 

i T^ES, thank you, Mr. Harding, I should 
W enjoy sitting out this dance with 
you on the piazza. I must confess 
that for the first time in my life I’m tired 
of dancing. This has been a terribly stren- 
uous life here all the week, and I’m afraid 
that by Wednesday brother will have to or- 
der an ambulance to carry me to the station. 
Never mind. I’ll have plenty of time to lie in 
my steamer chair and get rested, and probably 
long for a little excitement.” 

You’re a mighty lucky girl indeed. Miss 
Cabot, to be spending the summer in Europe. 
Tom told me you were going ‘ over ’ but he 
I 


2 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


didn’t give me any of the particulars. 
* Where do you sail ? ’ ‘ On what boat are 

you going? ’ ^ Where are you going? ’ And 

all the rest of those jolly questions one is sup- 
posed to ask politely of every possible globe- 
trotter. Perhaps you’re already dead tired of 
telling people your plans, so if you feel more 
like sitting quietly and watching the moon and 
listening to me, I’ll let you off this time, and 
I’ll sing Tom’s praises to the sky or tell you 
how some of us fellows intend to make our 
fortunes out in Life’s Big Arena, in capital 
letters, as the newspaper men and the class- 
day orators are so fond of saying. You 
know, everybody calls me ‘ the human talking 
machine,’ and Tom probably had an object in 
putting my name down on your order for 
about the middle of the dance; he knew you’d 
be ready to be amused out on the piazza by that 
time, after dancing several hours in those hot, 
stuffy rooms. I’m a regular dub at dancing, 
anyway, so it’s lucky for you that you were 
tired.” 

I don’t believe a word you’re saying, Mr. 
Harding; every man I’ve met in New Haven 


COMMENCEMENT WEEK 


3 


dances divinely. There, didn’t I say that 
nicely? I ought to be able to say flattering 
things, for it’s about all I’ve heard since I 
came. When it comes to flattery, I think col- 
lege men take the prize. Of course I’d love 
to hear you talk, but first I’m going to answer 
your questions, and then I’ll give you the rest 
of the time. 

My roommate at Ashton, Elizabeth Fair- 
fax, Miss Hooper, the nicest ‘ faculty ’ you 
ever saw, just like one of the girls, and my- 
self are starting Thursday, June 27th, at noon 
on the Adriatic, White Star Line, from New 
York. We’re going to spend the summer in 
the British Isles and tour old England, Ireland, 
and Scotland to our hearts’ content. Miss 
Hooper has made all our plans and we’re going 
by ourselves rather than join any old Cook’s 
party, for she’s been over several times and 
knows all about traveling, so we can go 
where and when we want to and won’t have 
to be jerked here and there, wherever and 
whenever a guide says so.” 

“ That’s where you’re wise. Miss Cabot, 
particularly if you aren’t going out of an Eng- 


4 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


lish-speaking country. I shouldn’t want to 
wander through Turkey or Russia or Egypt 
without knowing the language and having a 
guide, too, but I’d trust a woman, particularly 
an American, anywhere, even in the wilds of 
darkest Africa; she’d get along somehow as 
long as she had a tongue. 

But to be serious, you’re going on the 
Adriatic? What luck! I know one of your 
fellow passengers then. Father was telling 
me only this afternoon that the firm are send- 
ing over ‘ Rib ’ Atherton, one of their expert 
engineers, to study in France, and he’s going 
Thursday on the Adriatic. I know him well ; 
he’s an old Yale man, our society, too. I 
rather expected him on for commencement ; he 
generally makes it a point to come, but prob- 
ably he couldn’t spare the time. He’s a regular 
hustler at work these days, ’though they say 
he loafed through two-thirds of his course at 
Sheffield. I’m going to tell him about you 
people and give him a letter of introduction, 
and, believe me, he’ll make life worth the liv- 
ing on the good old Adriatic?* 

‘‘Fine! I was afraid we wouldn’t know a 


COMMENCEMENT WEEK 


5 


soul on the boat, and have a stupid time by 
ourselves. If there’s one thing in the world 
I’m beginning to enjoy, it’s people. I never 
knew very many until I came East so now I’m 
making up for lost time. Your friend has 
rather a peculiar name. Is ‘ Rib ’ his own 
name or a nickname? ” 

No, his real name is Richard, but early in 
his freshman year he broke one of his ribs 
playing football and he made so much talk 
about it that the fellows dubbed him ‘ Ribby.’ 
Gradually they reduced it to ‘ Rib,’ and now 
no one but his family ever calls him anything 
else. I forgot to tell you that he is married 
and lives near us in Providence and has two 
of the cutest youngsters you ever saw. 

Wish I were representing the firm, too, 
this summer, so I could make the trip with you, 
but if I’m anywhere near New York the day 
you sail perhaps you won’t mind if I go down 
to see you off. Anyway, I’m going to write 
* Rib ’ to-night and tell him to be on the look- 
out for the best-looking girl he ever saw, ex- 
cluding his wife, of course.” 

Well, I never!” said Tom Cabot, as he 


6 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


slowly came round the corner of the long pi- 
azza, Fve been looking everywhere for you, 
Jean, in the last fifteen minutes. But I 
might have known you would be here if ‘ Bill ' 
Harding had the dance. I suppose he’s been 
filling your ears with some of his wonderful 
tales that no one but himself ever heard of. 
Don’t believe a word he tells you. Sis, for he’s 
the biggest liar in college. I don’t know but 
that you were wise to sit the dance out, for 
all the girls say he’s the worst dancer in the 
‘ frat.’ ” 

‘‘ There, Miss Cabot, what did I tell you ? 
There’s once when I told the truth and nothing 
but the truth. Now, in the future will you 
believe what I have to say ? ” 

“Of course I will, Mr. Harding. I always 
believe every one until I have reason to disbe- 
lieve him. 

“Is this your dance, Tom? You haven’t 
danced with me at all yet.” 

“ No, but I wanted to ask you if you cared 
to stay and dance all night. The seniors and 
juniors have a custom of inviting their guests 
to remain after the others go, and dancing till 


COMMENCEMENT WEEK 


7 


sunrise and then have what they call a sunrise 
breakfast. Two of the chaperones have con- 
sented to stay, and I know it will be good fun. 
Still, if you're awfully tired, as you have a 
perfect right to be after such a strenuous week. 
I'll take you down to the hotel and come back 
alone for the finish." 

‘^Well, I guess not, Tom Cabot. I'll stay 
with you till the last moment. I'll never have 
another brother graduate from Yale, and I'm 
going to make the most of this opportunity. 
I'm not a bit tired; I was before I had this 
good long rest, but now I’m as fresh as a lark 
for the next dance. They're playing the Bac- 
carole Valse and I wouldn't miss it for any- 
thing. I wonder who my partner is." 

I guess it's ‘ Tip ' Warner, for he's looking 
anxiously around for some one out here," 
said Tom laughingly. Hi, Tip, here she is, 
over in this dark corner. Bill Harding's up 
to his usual stunt, and is trying to persuade 
her to sit out all the rest of her dances with 
him so he can jolly the life out of her. But 
she's too sensible to waste perfectly good music 
like that listening to his tommyrot. She just 


8 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


said she hoped her next partner would come 
quickly for she wanted to get back in the dance 
again. Bring her over to me in the alcove 
after the encore, for I want her to meet Jimmy 
Reed’s party.” 

Tip Warner and his fair partner were soon 
out in the whirl of merry dancers. Jean 
danced as though it were the first dance of the 
evening and the first evening of the commence- 
ment festivities instead of the end of it all. 
She had been to a perfect round of dances and 
teas and receptions and at them all had been 
the center of attention because of her striking 
beauty and apparently unconscious charm. 
As the younger sister of Tom Cabot, easily 
one of the most popular men of his class, it 
was natural that his friends should do their 
utmost to give her a royal good time and make 
her first visit to old Yale a memorable one. 
All their attention and devotion had not 
turned her head in the least, and the next 
morning when Tom left her at the hotel he 
said, “ I’m proud of you, little sister, you’ve 
sure made a hit at Yale, and it isn’t every 
freshman that can do that.” 


COMMENCEMENT WEEK 


9 


“ Oh, but it wasn’t I, Tom, it was you. 
Everybody was good to me because I’m Tom 
Cabot’s sister and they all love you. There 
isn’t one fellow who hasn’t told me something 
fine about you and what you’ve done for your 
class and college. I tell you. I’ve been pretty 
proud of you all this week, and I wish father 
and the boys could see with their own eyes 
how much you amount to here.” 

“ Hold on, Jean, they were only jollying 
you; that’s a regular Yale trick. I firmly 
maintain that it’s your own sweet self that 
has taken us all by storm. You always were 
something of a peach, but your one year at 
Ashton has put on the finishing touches, and 
I for one am mighty glad you’ve decided to go 
there three more years. 

'' Now, I want you to get right into bed 
and sleep till lunch-time, and then after lunch 
go back to bed and sleep some more, for we 
shall not start for New London till late in the 
afternoon and I want you to get all the rest 
you possibly can. If you think you’ve had 
excitement so far, you’ll find it was simply 
nothing in comparison to the race, for it’s the 


lo JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

best thing in the world to see our good old 
Yale crew come steaming ahead up the river. 
For weVe just got to win this year, every- 
thing points that way; Harvard hasn’t been 
so weak for years. 

“ Have your trunk ready to express to New 
York to-day, for we’ll send it ahead of us 
and take the last train up from New London 
to New York to-morrow night.” 

“All right, Tom. I suppose I’ll have to 
go to sleep, but it doesn’t seem as though I 
could. I’m so excited I don’t believe my eyes 
will stay shut five minutes. Tell me, what 
shall I wear to-morrow ? ” 

“ Oh, anything good-looking. Take an 
evening dress along, for there’s the concert to- 
night, and we’re invited to a dinner Fred Bal- 
lantine is giving afterwards. Take your rain- 
coat, too; for you never can tell five minutes 
ahead what kind of weather we’ll have in 
New London. We generally get a shower 
before the day is over, no matter how 
bright it may have been in the morning. 
Now, positively not another word until lunch- 
time, for you must get some beauty sleep.” 


COMMENCEMENT WEEK 


II 


Late that afternoon Tom and Jean with 
multitudes of others boarded the train for 
New London. There was scarcely a look of 
fatigue discernible among the sea of faces, 
and perfect confidence in the victory on the 
morrow filled all with a spirit of good-fellow- 
ship and camaraderie. Throats that many a 
time during the week had grown hoarse from 
cheering and singing rang out again in lusty 
cheers and rahs for old Eli. It was so all 
the evening and the next day; nothing could 
tire or quench that indomitable Yale spirit. 
Although the heavens were heavy and occa- 
sional showers sprinkled the earth all the 
morning it could not dampen the enthusiasm 
of the supporters of the Blue and the Crim- 
son. Thousands of people from the four 
corners of the United States came pouring into 
town, and in their oilskins and rubber coats 
splashed around in the festively arrayed town 
as though in defiance pf the unkind elements. 
Jean fairly reveled in the adventure, and 
thanked Tom every few moments that he had 
reminded her to bring her rain-coat. She was 
altogether too good a sport to let a little thing 


12 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

like weather interfere with her plans for a 
good time. 

By noon the prospect was brighter, and at 
three o’clock the sun shone as if trying to 
make amends for all the worry and uneasiness 
it had caused in the morning. Few realized 
that the freshman and four-oared races were 
over and had been victories for Harvard, for 
the observation trains were so slow in starting 
that none of the enthusiasts depending upon 
them could follow the crews. 

But by five o’clock the observation trains 
on both sides of the river were filled to over- 
flowing, a bleachers’ grandstand at the finish 
accommodated several hundred, and the 
course was lined at the start and finish with 
every conceivable kind of yacht and pleasure 
craft, and the vantage points along the river 
itself were thronged with eager people. Tom 
had been so fortunate as to get two seats near 
the Yale cheering section on one of the trains, 
and he and Jean soon found themselves among 
friends. 

Every one was on the qui vive for the sig- 
nal to be given for the crews to start, and after 


COMMENCEMENT WEEK 


13 


what seemed an interminable delay the pistol 
sounded and the rival eights shot down the 
river. Harvard got away first and for a 
while seemed to have the advantage, but at 
the two-mile flag Yale was gaining a little 
and hope rose in the heart of every supporter 
of the Blue. At the three-mile flag Yale had 
gained until she led by about two lengths. 
Her lead increased still faster in the next half- 
mile, and when the crews swept toward the 
finish there was no longer any doubt in regard 
to the outcome of the struggle. Yale swept 
over the line four lengths ahead without a man 
exhausted. 

From both sides of the river came deafen- 
ing cheers and shouts for Yale, for the joy of 
the Sons of Eli knew no bounds. They had 
lost to Harvard in football and baseball and 
this was their last chance to distinguish them- 
selves until another year when the glorious 
victories and disheartening defeats of the 
past year would have been forgotten in the 
achievements of the next. Thus runs the col- 
lege world along. 

It was a very tired but happy throng of 


14 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

Yale people that left New London that night, 
all going their separate ways, but freshened 
by that invigorating something of college life 
which puts new courage and enthusiasm into 
a man’s heart and soul and fills him with the 
determination to go back home and achieve big 
things. ‘‘ College spirit ” helps more than may 
be understood by those who have not felt it. 

Jean and Tom were to spend the night, or 
what there was left of it, at their aunt’s home 
in New York, and three days later were to 
meet Miss Hooper and Elizabeth at Grand 
Central Station. Late as it was, Mrs. Field- 
ing was waiting for them, and insisted upon 
an account of the doings of the week. By 
the time Jean was half-way through the first 
day at New Haven, Tom was fast asleep in 
his chair and Aunt Sarah suggested that they 
awaken him and finish the story the next day. 
As they staggered up the stairs to their rooms 
Tom mumbled, ‘‘ Aunt Sarah, please don’t 
try to wake me in the morning. Let me 
sleep as long as I want to, even if it’s two 
whole days. I never was so nearly dead for 
want of sleep. Jean’s boat doesn’t sail until 


COMMENCEMENT WEEK 15 

noon on Thursday, and I don’t care what hap- 
pens until then.” 

All right, you poor boy,” answered Aunt 
Sarah, assuringly, ‘‘ you may do exactly as 
you please for the next three days. I’ll have 
your meals carried up to your room and left 
outside the door, and you can eat and sleep 
just when you want to.” 

^‘Thanks awfully. Aunt, you’re a brick! 
Oh, pardon me, I mean a dear.” 

Aunt Sarah insisted upon going up into 
Jean’s room with her and helping her unpack. 
When ever3d:hing was in order and Jean 
snugly tucked in bed her aunt bent over her to 
kiss her good-night and said, Have you en- 
joyed it all, girlie?” 

Oh, yes. Aunt, it has been like one long 
beautiful dream; almost too good to be true. 
I’m ’most afraid to go to sleep for fear I’ll 
wake up in the morning and find out after all 
that it was only a dream. I wouldn’t go to 
sleep at all, only I can’t seem to keep my eyes 
open. I know now just how Tom feels, so 
please don’t call me early either. Good night 
and happy dreams.” 


CHAPTER II 


GETTING STARTED 

I N Spite of their predictions to the con- 
trary, Jean and Tom did not sleep 
away much of the three days at their dis- 
posal in New York, for it really takes but a 
little while for healthy young manhood and 
womanhood to recover from what seems at 
the time a hopeless exhaustion of all physical 
and mental resources. Their aunt was in- 
sistent that, as it was only Jean’s second visit 
to the great metropolis, she should see and do 
some of the things that were left over from 
the Christmas visit. Of course Tom felt like 
an ‘‘ old timer ” there, having spent most of his 
vacations either at his aunt’s or at the homes 
of college friends in or about the city, but he 
was always glad of another opportunity for 
fresh adventures, which, as he said, were en- 
tirely unlike those one had in any other part 
of U. S. A. And so one thing followed an- 
i6 


GETTING STARTED 


17 


other until it was Wednesday afternoon, and 
they were to meet Elizabeth and Miss Hooper 
at Grand Central Station. 

When Mrs. Fielding suggested that they 
take her automobile to the station Jean pro- 
tested. “ No, Aunt, thank you ever so much, 
but I want Tom to hire a ‘ taxi ’ to bring us 
back here. I remember once last winter 
hearing Elizabeth say that she had never rid- 
den in a taxi and never expected to, so I want 
to surprise her. I can just see her big eyes 
opening wider and wider with astonishment 
when she sees one after another of the won- 
ders of this city, but she won’t say anything. 
That isn’t her way; she’ll just look and look 
and take everything in, and perhaps five years 
from now she’ll surprise us by citing some 
incident that entirely escaped everybody else. 
You’ll find her very quiet at first, but I know it 
won’t take you long to discover her real worth. 

I’m sorry you can’t go to the station with 
us, but I suppose if you didn’t attend that 
stupid old meeting the suffragettes would all 
think you had deserted their great and glorious 


cause. 


i8 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


‘‘To tell you the truth, dear, I should prefer 
going with you to attending the meeting, but 
so many of the members are out of town at 
this season of the year that I feel it is my 
duty to go. What time does their train ar- 
rive?” 

“ It’s due at 5.42, but if it’s not in on time 
and they have to attend to their luggage we 
may be a little late for dinner.” 

“ Well, suppose we call dinner at half after 
seven to-night, and then we shall all be on 
time. If you should not find me here when 
you arrive you can show Miss Hooper and 
Elizabeth to their rooms and make them feel 
perfectly at home. One never can tell about 
delays in the city.” 

“ Perhaps that would be better, Aunt,” said 
Jean, “ and Tom and I are ready to start when- 
ever you are. We’ll ride up town with you 
in the machine, for Tom has promised to take 
me up to the Italian Garden in the New Astor 
for afternoon tea.” 

“Very well, dear; get into your things at 
once. The machine is at the door this minute 
waiting for us,” and in an incredibly short 


GETTING STARTED 


19 

time the three had arrived at their destina- 
tions. 

Although the tea 'was just right and the 
music alluring, Jean was a little impatient all 
the time they were at the hotel and made Tom 
take out his watch every few moments to tell 
her what time it was. Finally, at half-past 
four, she could curb her impatience no longer, 
and insisted that he go out at once and order 
the taxi to take them to the station. 

But, Jean,’^ Tom protested, why not stay 
here and enjoy ourselves? We don^t need to 
start for over an hour; it won’t take us five 
minutes to get there. The train isn’t due until 
nearly six, and there’s nothing to do in that 
great barn of a station all that time. You 
wouldn’t be there five minutes before you’d be 
wishing yourself back here.” 

"‘Yes, I know, Tom; but suppose that we 
should be delayed and when they arrived we 
were nowhere to be seen. What would they 
do then ? ” 

“ Well, hasn’t Miss Hooper been to New 
York any number of times before, and hasn’t 
she a tongue in her head, and hasn’t she Aunt 


20 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

Sarah’s address? Why, it’s the easiest thing 
in the world to get around in New York if 
you once get onto the system. Now won’t 
you calm yourself and let me finish this tea? ” 

‘‘ Yes, if you’ll promise to start at five 
o’clock, for I shan’t enjoy it a minute longer 
here.” 

By compromising, they finally left the hotel 
a little before half-past five, and were at the 
station before Jean could believe her eyes. 
“ Every time I go anywhere I get more mixed 
up than ever,” she said. I thought it was 
miles down here.” 

“ Well, perhaps next time you’ll believe me, 
Sis,” Tom said as he helped her to alight on 
the sidewalk. “We can go first and find out 
if the train is reported on time and what track 
she’ll come in on, and lose ourselves once or 
twice in the surging throng of commuters, and 
by that time there ought to be something doing 
in our line on the 5.42.” 

“No, sir; all I’ve got to say, Tom, is that 
once having found out the track on which the 
5.42 comes in I’m going to stand by the gates 
until I see Elizabeth right in front of me. 


GETTING STARTED 


21 


You can wander anywhere you want to over 
the whole station, but please leave me to do 
as I wish. In case we lose each other Til take 
them right out to the taxi and wait till you 
put in an appearance, provided, of course, it 
isn’t so late that we lose all chance of having 
any dinner at all.” 

Don’t worry, I’ll be there all right when 
the train pulls in. I wouldn’t miss meeting 
Elizabeth and Miss Hooper for anything in 
the world.” And true to his words Tom was 
back again just as the passengers began to 
alight from the long express train. 

I don’t see a sign of them anywhere,” said 
Jean, but then you can’t see anything from 
here anyway. I don’t understand why the 
guards won’t let people go inside the gates. 
What difference does it make? Keep your 
eyes open for them, Tom. Miss Hooper’ll 
probably wear brown, she always does, and 
Beth’ll have a black hat with blue on it. Oh, 
I think I see them, ’way down there! I’d al- 
most be tempted to try to run by the old guard, 
only he looks so cross.” 

You’d better not, Jean; it won’t do any 


22 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


good. They have to keep people out, or 
there’d be such confusion nobody could ever 
get anywhere. I believe you're right; that 
does look like Elizabeth. If that's they, what 
a stack of luggage they've got. I see where 
we get busy and do the expressman act." 

“ Yes, it's they; they're waving to us. Oh, 
I wish they'd hurry ; it seems as though they'd 
never get here ! " But soon they were outside 
the gates, and the two girls were in each 
other’s arms asking a dozen questions at once. 

“ Have you attended to your trunks. Miss 
Hooper?" asked Tom, and then added, to the 
girls, Perhaps we’d better move on ; we're 
blocking up the way and some of the other 
people might like to get out of the station to- 
night. Let’s go into the waiting-room until 
we’re ready to start up town.” 

‘‘ Thank you, Mr. Cabot,” said Miss 
Hooper, ‘‘ we had our trunks transferred from 
the train directly to the boat by the Arm- 
strong man, and he has promised that they 
will be taken over to-night or very early to- 
morrow morning. Although the boat doesn't 
start until noon, I think we should go over to 


GETTING STARTED 


23 


it as soon after breakfast as possible. I 
should like to have gone to-day but it was 
impossible for me to leave Ashton before; 
there are always so many things to be attended 
to at the close of the year. Another time, I 
should plan a little later start. I am going 
to leave you young people here for a few 
moments while I send a telegram back to 
Dean Thurston about an important matter I 
overlooked this morning. And can you show 
me where the telephone booths are? I must 
talk just a moment with my sister in Passaic.’’ 

Certainly, Miss Hooper, I’ll take you 
there directly and come back for you after 
I have taken these girls and the bags to the 
taxi. They won’t mind being left alone for 
a while so they can have some of their ‘ heart- 
to-hearts ’ about all that’s happened in the 
long time they have been separated.” 

For about half an hour the girls were left 
to themselves and their animated conversa- 
tion centered on two subjects, the week at 
Yale and the sights in New York. As Miss 
Hooper and Tom put in an appearance, Jean 
said, ‘‘ Why, I haven’t even begun. Beth, 


24 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


there’s no use talking, you’ve got to come up 
into my room to-night and sleep with me, 
then I can finish telling you all about every- 
thing. Aunt Sarah intended to put you in 
one of the guest rooms next to Miss Hooper, 
but I shall tell her we’ve made other plans.” 
Then she whispered, Doesn’t Miss Hooper 
look stunning to-day? She and Tom seem^ 
great friends already, and are talking as 
though they’d always known each other. But 
isn’t my brother just the best ever? You 
ought to hear the fine things everybody said 
about him at Yale, I — ” 

But just then Tom helped Miss Hooper into 
the taxi, and the conversation became gen- 
eral as the four were hurried to the house 
of Mrs. Fielding, who was waiting to greet 
them most cordially. Dinner was announced 
promptly at half after seven, and it was long 
after eight before the guests left the table, 
for they lingered over their coffee to discuss 
the plans for the summer. 

When Mrs. Fielding proposed a ride 
through the Park in her automobile. Miss 
Hooper insisted that she and her charges re- 


GETTING STARTED 


25 


tire early, as they must start in good season 
in the morning, so the five talked for 
an hour or so in the delightful old drawing- 
room, filled with the associations and mem- 
ories of the early seventies and eighties when 
New York was not the hustling, bustling 
metropolis it is to-day, and at the stroke of 
ten Miss Hooper rose to leave the room. As 
the good-nights were being said, Jean whis- 
pered, ‘‘ Auntie, don^t tell Miss Hooper, please, 
but Betty and I are going to sleep together 
up in my room so I can finish telling her 
about senior week. No, we won^t talk too 
long, I promise you. We’ll mind Miss 
Hooper after to-night but our trip doesn’t 
really begin until to-morrow, and to-night 
you’re our chaperone.” Smiling, Aunt Sarah 
nodded her assent and they all went to their 
rooms promising to be down for an early 
breakfast at seven-thirty. 

Breakfast was over by eight o’clock, and 
Miss Hooper took a cab directly for the boat 
and the others followed about an hour later 
in Mrs. Fielding’s big touring-car. Jean and 


26 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


Elizabeth were radiant with anticipation, and 
excitement had heightened the color of their 
faces so that perhaps no one but Mrs. Fielding 
would have suspected that they had talked until 
long after midnight. But she said nothing 
about it, and inwardly consoled herself with 
the thought that they would have plenty of 
time on the boat to make up lost sleep. All 
the way over Jean was wondering who would 
come to see them off, how many letters she 
would find — she was sure her father and 
some of the girls would write, for they had 
promised her faithfully that they would, — 
and what would be her sensations as the boat 
actually left the wharf. Strange to say, she 
was inclined to be a little quiet, for some of 
her thoughts refused to be shared with the 
others. Just as she was about to ask Tom 
if he expected any of the Yale boys would 
come down to the boat, the automobile 
stopped, and in answer to Mrs. Fielding’s 
question as to what had happened, Rudolph, 
the chauffeur, replied, I don’t know, ma’am, 
something seems to be wrong with the clutch, 
but I think it will be all right in a minute.” 


GETTING STARTED 


27 


** O dear,” sighed Jean, isn’t that the 
worst luck! Why didn’t we go with Miss 
Hooper in the cab ! I never saw anything like 
autos and taxis ; there’s always something hap- 
pening when you don’t want it to. Won’t you 
ask Rudolph what’s the matter and how long 
it will take to fix it ? ” 

‘‘ Why,” said Tom, I’m surprised to hear 
you talk so about autos. Not long ago I 
heard you say that you thought they were the 
best things ever invented and you wanted 
father to buy you one the minute you got 
back to California. ‘ Don’t ever speak to the 
chauffeur when he’s in trouble,’ if there’s one 
rule in automobiling, it’s that. He’ll do the 
best he can as quickly as possible, so just 
sit back and enjoy the scenery. Charming 
vista this, n'est-ce-pasf^^ 

But it wasn’t all right in a minute, as Ru- 
dolph had predicted, and after working for 
more than fifteen minutes he said mournfully, 
‘‘Well, I give up, Mrs. Fielding, I can’t do 
anything with it. I’ll just go over to that 
store and ’phone to the garage.” 

“All right, Rudolph,” replied Mrs. Field- 


28 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


ing, “ but we can’t wait for the machine to 
be fixed. This is West Street, and it’s only 
a short walk to Pier 62. You can stay with 
the car and if it is fixed in time you may 
come for me a little after twelve o’clock. 
I shall wait until the boat sails, even if it 
doesn’t start on time, and then Mr. Cabot and 
I will return home.” 

As Miss Hooper had taken most of the lug- 
gage with her, the girls had only their coats 
and cameras to carry, so they easily walked 
the distance which remained to the pier. As 
they approached the long pier they found con- 
fusion everywhere, people hurrying in both 
directions, great express wagons piled high 
with trunks and cases and boxes and every 
conceivable means for conveying luggage, hur- 
rying messenger boys with telegrams or 
florists’ boxes, often larger than themselves, 
cabs and taxis, sometimes with a single occu- 
pant but more often filled to their seating 
capacity, policemen trying to maintain order 
and harmony, pedestrians of every sort and 
condition, men, women and children, laden 
with boxes, wraps, luggage, cameras, mag- 


GETTING STARTED 


29 


azines, books, dogs, umbrellas, fruit and 
flowers, all exposed to the blistering June sun, 
stewards and deck-hands in the ship’s uniform, 
darting here and there on last errands, each 
a part of that vast crowd which follows in 
the wake of an outgoing steamer. 

As they drew up to the huge boat lying 
alongside of the pier, Tom put down the bags 
he was carrying, and taking off his hat said 
joyously, “ There she is, girls ; now let’s give 
three rousing cheers for the good old Adri- 
aticf^ 

Oh, is that it?” said Jean with a disap- 
pointed tone. Why I thought it would be 
ever so much larger.” 

“Larger?” said Elizabeth. “Why, it 
nearly takes my breath away, it’s so large. 
Oh, there’s Miss Hooper now, waving to us 
from the upper deck. How in the world are 
we ever going to get up there to her? Who 
is that with her? Why, isn’t it Crissy New- 
comb and Bess? Did you know they were 
coming to see us off? ” 

“ Yes, they said if they were in New York 
they’d surely come down. Oh, let’s hurry, I 


30 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


want to see our stateroom and go over the 
whole boat.” 

But before they reached the gangplank they 
were stopped by Tip Warner and several 
others of the Yale boys. ‘‘ We thought you 
weren't coming, Tom,” said Tip; we’ve been 
all over the boat twice and had about decided 
we’d made a mistake in the day of the sailing. 
Bill Harding couldn’t come over at the last 
moment, and sent this box to your sister. 
May we go back with you now? We want 
to see Miss Cabot’s room and decorate it a 
little with these flowers.” Introductions fol- 
lowed and the merry laughing party hurried 
up the gangplank and were soon on deck 
where Miss Hooper awaited them. 

‘‘ Everything is all right and the trunks in 
our stateroom so perhaps we had better go 
directly there,” she said. We’re on the 
upper forward deck, stateroom 98. I’ll lead 
the way, for one is apt to get lost the first 
time he tries to find his way alone on a liner. 
It looks as though some of us had many kind 
friends, judging from the appearance of our 
room, and I haven’t been into the dining-room 


GETTING STARTED 


31 


at all yet. You know, the stewards put all the 
mail and packages which arrive late into the 
main dining-room, and passengers can claim 
them at their leisure after the boat starts. 
We haven’t time for such things now, for 
some of my friends are here and will want to 
spend all the time they can talking with us.” 

By this time they had reached stateroom 
98, and when Jean and Elizabeth looked in 
and saw the three berths nearly covered with 
packages and huge boxes Elizabeth exclaimed. 
Why, where did all these come from, and 
what are they ? ” 

I guess our friends can answer those ques- 
tions much better than I can, but it looks as 
though everybody we know has sent something 
to cheer us up at the thought of leaving them. 
Now, hadn’t you both better put your wraps 
and bags down, if indeed you can find a place? 
Then we’ll go out and meet our friends.” 

The first thing I want to do. Miss Hooper, 
is to go over the ship, then I’ll be perfectly 
willing to do anything else you suggest. Why 
can’t you and Aunt Sarah, who have been 
over these boats so many times and know 


32 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


everything about them, do duty for us and tell 
everybody we’ll be back very soon? Tom and 
the boys can make the tour of inspection with 
us.” 

“ Yes, Jean, I think it would be a very good 
idea for you to go over the ship but don’t 
spend too much time now, for you will have 
a whole week to do that, and I want you all 
to meet my sister and her family and some 
of my friends who I expect will come over.” 

“All right. Miss Hooper; we’ll be back as 
soon as possible and meet you here again in 
about ten minutes,” and they started off 
through the great crowd which had already 
taken possession of the ship. Tom and his 
charges hurried through the spacious lounge, 
the reading-room, the ladies’ room, and even 
peeped into the smoking-room, which Tom 
said was no place for ladies, then on until they 
reached the great dining-saloon, where they 
found a long table stacked high with mail 
and boxes. 

“No,” said Tom firmly, “don’t even look 
to see if there’s anything for you. Of course 
there is, but leave it until this afternoon when 


GETTING STARTED 


33 


you won't have anything else to do. I want 
to show you the salt water swimming pools; 
they’re the greatest things I ever heard of. I 
envy you your daily dips in them. I can see 
where Jean spends most of her time morn- 
ings. Look out for her, Elizabeth, for she 
loses her head in the water unless some one 
watches her closely.” 

“ Don’t you believe him, Beth, just because 
he ducked me the other day down at Deal 
Beach and made me choke and get scared 
for a minute or two, he thinks I’m a poor, 
helpless thing in the water. But I’ll show you 
to-morrow morning what I can do. You 
ought to know by this time just how much 
you can safely believe of what Tom says. 
Now let’s go out on the promenade deck and 
then I’ll be ready to go back and meet people. 
Isn’t this boat like a little world in itself? 
There isn’t a thing one could possibly want, 
that isn’t here. 

“ Oh, see that officer in white trousers and 
blue coat with the brass buttons on it, leaning 
up against the rail ! I believe he’s the captain. 
Doesn’t he look jolly? I know I’m going to 


34 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


like him. Who sits at the Captain’s Table? 
Do you suppose we’ll be anywhere near him ? ” 

That isn’t the captain, Jean. He’s too 
ordinary-looking, probably it’s the ship doctor 
or one of the petty officers. The captain is 
probably in his stateroom receiving callers. 
He’s always very popular, and holds a regular 
reception before the boat starts. He isn’t on 
duty until after the ship leaves the harbor, for 
one of the harbor captains always guides the 
ship out of the harbor and then the pilot boat 
brings him back again to the pier. By the 
way, if you have any last messages for us poor 
‘ land-lubbers,’ you can send them back by 
the pilot, for you won’t have another chance 
until you reach Liverpool, unless you send us 
a wireless. Why don’t you send one to Dad ? 
It would please him immensely.” 

surely will, Tom; and now please take 
us to the wireless apparatus. I didn’t know 
there was one on this ship.” 

Oh, all the big liners have them now, for 
they couldn’t afford to be without them. 
There’s really nothing to see now, for the 
operators aren’t here, but later if you get on 


GETTING STARTED 


35 


the right side of them, they’ll tell you all about 
it. Hadn’t we better go up with the others 
now ? It’s getting late and they’ll be warning 
us to get off before very long. They always 
begin to clear the decks in good season, for 
some people seem to hate most awfully to 

go- 

When they reached Miss Hooper they found 
her quite surrounded by people. Her married 
sister from Passaic had brought her husband 
and three charming children, and then there 
were some cousins of about her own age and 
several middle-aged, distinguished-looking gen- 
tlemen. Her arms were heavily laden with 
flowers, and she looked very happy as she in- 
troduced everybody to everybody else. 

Did you see Crissy Newcomb and the 
other girls, Jean? They were here a long 
time but they got tired of waiting for you 
and started out to find you. There are about 
a dozen of the college girls. They brought 
me these lovely roses and a big basket of fruit, 
which I have had carried to the stateroom. 
Here they come back again, and they’re 
bringing some more of the girls. Doesn’t it 


36 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


seem quite like Ashton transported to the 
’Adriatic f ” 

In a moment the college girls were chat- 
tering like magpies, but after the excitement 
of the moment died down Crissy Newcomb 
said, ‘‘My, girls, but you’ve got some celeb- 
rities going over with you! We looked at 
the passenger list downstairs when we first 
came on to find out the number of your state- 
room and we almost fainted at the names we 
saw. Why there are two counts — think of 
being for a whole week on the same boat with 
two real live counts — then there are a lot of 
actors and actresses and millionaires 1 I won- 
der if we can see any of them, Tm just dippy 
over celebrities, and Td give anything to see 
them.” 

“ Oh,” replied Miss Hooper, smiling, “ prob- 
ably they have gone directly to their state- 
rooms. They get so tired of being looked at 
during the winter that oftentimes they stay 
in their rooms during the entire passage. One 
is more apt to see them at the ship concerts 
than anywhere else, for sometimes they can be 
prevailed upon to take part.” 


GETTING STARTED 


37 


‘‘ Why, I should think they’d want people 
to see them,” said Crissy ; ‘‘ I should. When 
we came on board there was the cutest little 
lady just ahead of us, and everybody was 
bowing and scraping before her so I knew 
she was somebody great, but she was so com- 
pletely swathed in veils that I couldn’t see 
her face at all. Oh, girls, we’ve forgotten to 
give Jean and Elizabeth their flowers. Aren’t 
we the big sillies ? ” 

From a great box they took out some 
American Beauties and filled the arms of both 
girls. They’re from Gamma Chi, you know, 
to remind you of us all while you’re away. 
The rest of the girls wished they could be 
here, too, but most of them are miles away by 
this time. What does this steward want? 
He’s looking at us as if something were the 
matter.” 

When he came within hearing distance they 
found he was calling, ** Miss Cabot,” and when 
she answered him he told her that some one 
wished to speak to her at the telephone in the 
office on the pier. When she came back she 
was blushing so that Tom suspected who had 


38 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


called her up and he called out, Bill Harding, 
wasn’t it? Sorry he couldn’t come I suppose. 
Too bad, sister, tell us all about it.” 

But just then the warning gong sounded 
for the second time, and the little company 
assembled round 98 ” began to disperse. It 
was hard actually to come to the point of say- 
ing good-bye until September. Tom was the 
last to leave, and it was a rather serious youth 
that kissed Jean farewell as he whispered, 
“I’ll stand on the pier and wave my hand- 
kerchief until you’re out of sight, then you 
go down and read your letters and look at 
your flowers. No, please write me just a line 
first to send back by the Pilot. Good-bye, 
Jean,” and he hurried away before he had 
time to look at Jean’s sober little face. 

At last the boat was emptied of all its visi- 
tors and only the passengers filled the great 
decks. These all stood where they could see 
their friends on shore and wave them the last 
good-byes. Jean and Elizabeth had hurried 
up to the upper promenade deck and edged 
their way close to the rail. It took some time 
for the boat to get away from her moorings, 


GETTING STARTED 


39 


and all that time those on deck tried in vain 
to make those on shore understand last mes- 
sages. Finally she started and moved slowly, 
very slowly, away, and then turning, started 
down North River. 

As long as there was a person in sight, 
Jean waved and waved, and when finally all 
traces of those on the pier had disappeared, 
she arose and standing perfectly still stood for 
a long time staring back at what she had left 
behind her. It seemed to Elizabeth as though 
she would never speak, but at last she turned 
and said, “ It's true, it's true. We're really 
on our way to England, but I've left behind 
something that's better than anything I'll ever 
find in Europe. But let's go down for Miss 
Hooper now, and get at our mail." 


CHAPTER III 

GETTING ACQUAINTED 

iC^ i ^HE first thing Fm going to do, 
I Beth, is to get into a sailor suit, 
Fm so awfully uncomfortable in 
these clothes,” said Jean as they hurried away 
to their stateroom. ‘‘ I wonder which is the 
shortest way to ' 98.’ Let's go down here, I 
think it’s the way we came. I don’t remem- 
ber how the numbers of the rooms run but 
this looks right.” 

'' No, Jean, I think we’re going in the oppo- 
site direction and aren’t we on the wrong side 
of the boat? This doesn’t look natural to 
me. 

‘‘ Honestly, Beth, I don’t know. I never 
would have believed that I could lose my way 
on a boat, but we certainly aren’t any nearer 
‘ 98 ’ than we were on the upper deck. Let’s 
walk on until we meet some one who looks 
40 


GETTING ACQUAINTED 


intelligent and then ask the ‘ way home/ I 
think one of the stewards is coming this way, 
and Fm going to ask him/’ 

It took but a moment for the obliging deck- 
steward to show them how to reach their room 
and soon they had both donned their blue 
sailor suits and had joined Miss Hooper in 
the dining-room, which was already filled with 
anxious people looking through the assorted 
mail for their letters. Miss Hooper beckoned 
to the girls and showed them the little pile 
she had collected for them and suggested that 
they take everything to their own room to 
open. Just as they were leaving the room a 
steward called out, Lunch in the main dining- 
room at one-thirty o’clock,” and as they 
reached the stairway another steward called 
out, '' Last call for mail, the pilot goes back in 
half an hour.” 

Oh,” cried Jean, I must send back a let- 
ter to Tom and one to Dad. Where can I 
put all these things? ” 

Why not take them with you into the 
writing-room?” said Miss Hooper. ‘‘If that 
is full, come up to our room and use my foun- 


42 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


tain pen. There will be plenty of time if you 
make your letters brief. I have written all 
I care to, so I will leave you two here and 
go up and put some of the flowers in water. 
Later we will have them on our dining-table 
so everybody can enjoy them.'’ 

Jean had so many things she wanted to tell 
her father that she couldn’t decide what to 
say first, and finally ended by writing: 

‘‘Dear Dad: 

“ Here we are sailing out to sea, or maybe 
it’s only the North River. Fine time. Every- 
thing all right. More later. 

“Jean.” 

Tom’s letter was little better, but she 
sealed, stamped, and addressed them and 
dropped them into the mail-bag just in time 
for them to be taken off. 

“ There, that’s done,” she said ; “ now I’m 
going to get at my own letters and I hope 
nothing will stop me, for I’ve been just crazy 
to see them ever since I came on board.” 

When they entered their stateroom Eliza- 


GETTING ACQUAINTED 


43 

beth exclaimed, Oh, such beautiful flowers ! 
Why it looks like a florist’s shop. Where did 
all these come from ? ” 

They’re from some of my friends, dear,” 
said Miss Hooper, “ but for all of us to enjoy. 
People seem to have remembered my love of 
roses, and have sent them in great numbers. 
You must both open your boxes now.” 

When the girls opened the various packages 
with their names upon them they found roses 
and carnations, lilies of the valley and sweet 
peas, baskets of fruit and boxes of choice 
candy, books and magazines enough to last 
through the whole voyage. Why isn’t it just 
like Christmas?” said Jean with her eyes 
sparkling. ‘^What shall we ever do with so 
many things? Whom can we give them to? 
We can never eat all this fruit and candy our- 
selves.” 

Perhaps we shall find some people less 
fortunate than ourselves, and always as a last 
resort there are those in the steerage who 
will be very thankful for some fresh fruit. 
I think our friends have been extremely 


44 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


thoughtful and generous. These roses which 
your father sent are beautiful, Jean.” 

‘‘ Why,” said Elizabeth, how could Mr. 
Cabot send you roses from California? ” 

Oh, he didn’t send them from California, 
Elizabeth,” said Jean with a smile. “ He had 
Tom order them at a florist’s in New York. 
But Miss Hooper seems to be the favored one ; 
he didn’t send us American Beauties. Mine 
were lilies of the valley and yours sweet peas 
but then these five-pound boxes of Huyler’s 
are from him and we all have telegrams, too. 
I’m going to begin on my steamer letters now, 
if you’ll excuse me.” 

Are you all ready for lunch, dear ? ” asked 
Miss Hooper. Perhaps the letters will keep 
until afternoon. It is quarter after one now, 
and there are several matters yet to be at- 
tended to. Our assignments at the dining- 
table are 45, 46, and 47 at the long table and 
I want to show you where I have had our 
steamer chairs placed.” 

‘^Will our seats be anywhere near the cap- 
tain’s table?” said Jean. ‘‘I had hoped we 
should be at his table.” 


getting acquainted 4S 

‘‘ Oh, it is only a few of his personal friends 
who sit there, Jean, but we shall be just across 
so you can watch him all you please. Now 
why not take your letters down with you and 
peep into them on the way and finish them 
after lunch?” 

‘‘ All right,” Jean answered, pleasantly, al- 
though inwardly she was disappointed not to 
be able to read the letters, and especially a 
certain one which had piqued her curiosity all 
the morning. 

Not nearly all the seats in the dining-room 
were occupied at lunch but there were enough 
interesting people at the long table to prevent 
Jean from eating very much and to keep her 
busy imagining who and what they all were. 
Her nearest neighbor on the left was a big, 
burly Englishman who told in the very first 
sentences of their conversation that he had 
been over to America for a week looking out 
for his firm’s interests in grain. He had 
crossed now some twenty times, but he heartily 
disliked New York and was always glad to 
get back to London, which, in his estimation, 
was the only city in the whole world worth 


46 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

living in. He consumed great quantities of 
food and persisted in advising Jean what to 
take and what to let alone. Across from her 
was a sweet, motherly-looking woman with 
two sons about ten and twelve years of age; 
at the end of the table was a dignified, gray- 
haired gentleman who might easily have been 
a college professor going to Germany, perhaps 
for a course in philosophy; just beyond Miss 
Hooper was a cross-looking little foreigner 
who appeared to be much out of sorts with 
the world and scarcely looked up once from 
his food ; perhaps he had not found Americans 
as appreciative of his genius as he had ex- 
pected. Half-way down the table were some 
jolly-looking girls and Jean decided that she 
would like to know them immediately. She 
gazed round the dining-room as much as she 
dared and wondered which was ‘‘ Rib Ather- 
ton and if “ Bill Harding had kept his prom- 
ise and written to him as he said he would. 

Just then the waiter placed her order for a 
strawberry ice before her and after she had 
looked at it a moment she whispered to Eliza- 
beth, ‘‘ Did you ever see such ice-cream ? 


GETTING ACQUAINTED 


Why, it isn’t any bigger or thicker than the 
Nabiscos it’s served on. I should call it a 
Nabisco sandwich and a thin one at that. 
Wouldn’t I like to show our waiter one of 
Briggs’s chocolate walnut college ices ; it 
would make this look like a little bit of noth- 
ing. I’ve had enough, anyway; it’s so stuffy 
in here I’m getting dizzy, I think I’ll go and 
find a good breezy seat up on deck and read 
my letters. Won’t you both come with me? ” 
Miss Hooper wished to unpack her suit- 
case and Elizabeth to lie down a little while, so 
Jean started off alone and soon found a com- 
fortable spot much to her liking up on the 
hurricane deck. She spread her letters and 
telegrams out in her lap and tore open the 
thick letter from her father. The poor man 
had tried not to show how much he was go- 
ing to miss his only daughter through the 
long summer, and told her one amusing inci- 
dent after another until she was laughing 
aloud to herself at the pictures he drew of 
himself and the boys. On the last sheet of 
the bulky letter she read these words, '' li I 
get too lonesome out here and you write me 


48 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


too interesting accounts of what you’re doing 
over there I may be obliged to run over in 
August to come home with you. Anyway, 
I’ll meet you in New York, September 20th, 
and give you the grandest welcome in the 
world. Tell Miss Hooper to take the best 
care of my little girls and I’ll reward her roy- 
ally when we meet again.” 

Jean was so excited over the prospect of 
having her father meet them in Europe that 
she was on the point of leaving her other let- 
ters unread and rushing down to tell the oth- 
ers the astounding news from her father but 
a large, thick envelope suggestive of a wed- 
ding invitation marked Detroit,” caught her 
eye, and remembering certain vivid experi- 
ences in the past year connected with the only 
person she knew in Detroit, she tore it open 
hastily and found an invitation to attend the 
wedding of Marjorie Remington and John 
Goodrich the following week. 

This was more than she could stand, and 
she gathered up all her unread letters and 
started toward the stairs. Half-way there 
she came face to face with a big, broad-shoul- 


GETTING ACQUAINTED 49 


dered man who smiled pleasantly at her and 
said, Pardon me, but isn’t this Miss Cabot — 
Miss Jean Cabot? My name’s Atherton, I’m 
a friend of Bill Harding, who sent me this let- 
ter of introduction to you. From his descrip- 
tion I recognized you the moment I saw you 
come into the dining-room, but to be perfectly 
sure I asked the steward. I expected from 
what Bill wrote that he would come to the 
boat, but something must have prevented him.” 

Yes, I had a telephone message from him 
just before the boat started and he sent me a 
letter, but I haven’t had time to read it. He 
said over the ’phone that his father had been 
taken suddenly ill in the New York office and 
he did not feel that he could leave him. He 
had only a moment to talk, but he said I’d find 
the details in his letter. So after I’ve read 
that perhaps I can tell you more about his 
father.” 

Thank you, I should like to hear. I came 
up last night from Providence and they knew 
nothing about it at our office there. Can’t we 
sit down here and get acquainted? I don’t 
know a soul on the boat except my three 


50 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


roommates and IVe only seen them a few 
moments. Bill tells me you don’t know any 
one, either, but that you’re very fond of peo- 
ple and a good time. So am I; so perhaps 
together we can find enough to amuse our- 
selves. 

Speaking of my roommates, I think you 
will enjoy meeting them, for they’re all fine- 
appearing young fellows. Two of them just 
graduated in June from Princeton and are 
going to travel during the summer, and then 
one of them is going to Oxford for a year’s 
study. The other chap is an artist, going over 
to Paris to study portraiture, a dreamy sort 
of fellow but good-natured, if I’m a good 
judge of men. Have you ever played shuf- 
fle-board? It’s good fun and exercise, and I 
thought later in the afternoon I’d bring the 
fellows round and introduce them and maybe 
we could have a little game before dinner.” 

Oh, I’d love to, but I don’t know anything 
about it.” 

‘‘ It’s not difficult to learn, Miss Cabot, I 
assure you, so if you’re willing we’ll teach 
you. Where shall I find you ? ” 


GETTING ACQUAINTED 51 

‘'Our steamer chairs are just below our 
stateroom, which is ‘ 98,’ and we’ll surely be 
there about five o’clock. I haven’t told you 
how delighted I am to know you and how 
glad I shall be to introduce you to my room- 
mate, Miss Fairfax, and our chaperone. Miss 
Hooper. This is my first experience on the 
ocean and I’m so happy and excited over it 
that I don’t seem to know just what I’m doing 
and saying. I’m not always so crazy-headed 
as I seem to be this afternoon, and now if 
you’ll excuse me I think I’ll go down to my 
room and finish reading my letters. We’ll be 
ready at five, surely.” 

By four o’clock Elizabeth, Jean, and Miss 
Hooper were ready to go out on deck and sit 
in their steamer chairs. They had books and 
magazines galore, but these gradually slipped 
unread into their laps or on the floor as the 
three gazed contentedly out on the calm blue 
ocean, which to-day was as still as any mill 
pond and gave no promise of waves mountain- 
high in time of storm. Now and then a gull 
would alight on the crest of a wave and rest 
there as comfortably as any robin in an apple- 


52 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


tree, and once a large school of porpoises 
swam by. Few of the steamer chairs were 
occupied as yet, and people passed and re- 
passed restlessly, as though it were a little 
difficult to settle down and do anything but 
day-dream. 

A little after five o’clock, Mr. Atherton and 
his roommates came up to where Jean was 
sitting and after the introductions were over 
the seven started for the lower end of the 
deck where Mr. Atherton had had one of 
the shuffle-board sections reserved for him. 
The simple explanation of the game was given, 
and first Jean and Bob Bowker, one of the 
Princeton men, were to play Miss Hooper and 
Mr. Atherton, thus leaving Elizabeth and Jack 
Raymond, the other Princeton man, and John 
Blair, the young artist, to sit down on the 
deck, braced up against a life-boat to await 
their turn. 

Jean went into the new game with her usual 
enthusiasm and she and her partner were 
rolling up a big score. She was very anxious 
to win and toward the end of the game she 
stepped back to get a better shot and somehow 


GETTING ACQUAINTED 


53 


slipped on the smooth deck and fell down with 
a little scream of pain. Oh, it’s nothing,” 
she said after a moment, as everybody has- 
tened to help her up. “ I’m all right, thank 
you.” But as she attempted to stand she 
grew pale and sank down again as she said, 
‘‘ It’s my ankle ; something’s the matter there. 
I guess you will have to help me after all.” 

Mr. Atherton lifted her gently into a 
steamer-chair which some one had brought 
and said, “ You’d better sit here until the doc- 
tor looks at your ankle and then he’ll tell us 
what to do.” 

“ All right,” said Jean, smiling bravely, I 
hope the doctor’s that fine-looking officer I 
saw on deck when we were going over the 
ship with Tom. I thought it was the cap- 
tain but Tom laughed at me and said it prob- 
ably was only the doctor. I didn’t think then 
I’d ever have any occasion to become ac- 
quainted with the doctor. Wouldn’t Tom 
smile if he knew? He’d say I did it on pur- 
pose.” 

Just then young Blair, who had hurried 
away for the doctor came round the corner 


54 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


with a tall, thin man in a dark-blue uniform, 
who limped in his right leg rather noticeably. 

Oh,” said Jean, disappointed; it isn’t 

my officer at all. What a funny-looking man 
he is ! But I wish he’d hurry, for it’s getting 
worse every minute,” and she closed her eyes 
and bit her lips to keep from crying. 

After Jean had been removed to her room 
and an examination made, it was found that 
she had wrenched her ankle, though not badly, 
and before the doctor left he told her he 
thought that if she kept off her feet for the 
rest of the voyage she would be able to walk 
when they landed. At first it was very hard 
for Jean to be reconciled to the thought of 
keeping still so long, for she knew it meant 
giving up all the good times she had pictured 
to herself; the mornings in the swimming- 
tank, the games of ring-toss and shuffle-board, 
the long walks round and round the decks, 
the excitement of the dining-room, the dances 
after dinner, in fact the whole life of the boat, 
but when the doctor told her that she could 
sit in her steamer chair on deck the next day 
and every pleasant day, she felt differently, 


GETTING ACQUAINTED 55 

and determined to make the best of it and 
not cause the others unhappiness because of 
her mishap. 

In spite of her strong constitution the shock 
had tired her and she was quite willing to obey 
the doctor’s orders and be put to bed. Eliz- 
abeth insisted upon having her dinner served 
with Jean’s in the stateroom, and after they 
had eaten she read aloud to her from one of 
the new books which had been sent to them. 
At eight o’clock Miss Hooper came in and 
brought messages of’ sympathy from many 
of the passengers, for the news of the acci- 
dent had spread like wildfire over the boat. 
She was tired after the strenuous day and a 
little worried over Jean’s accident, so she sug- 
gested that she and Elizabeth go to bed, too. 
Elizabeth was glad to do so, but Jean pro- 
tested, Oh, Miss Hooper, I know you are 
taking pity on me and coming to bed just to 
keep me company. Please don’t waste this 
glorious night in here. I know it’s moon- 
light, and it must be beautiful and cool out on 
deck. Do you suppose I can sit out to-morrow 
night ? ” 


56 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

Yes, little girl, I hope so and all the other 
nights as well, for to-morrow morning I am 
sure you will feel much better, and the only 
thing I shall insist upon will be that you sit 
still in your steamer chair and let everybody 
wait on you. I am very tired and quite ready 
to have a good night’s sleep. Do you feel 
comfortable now? Can I do anything for 
you? ” 

“ No, Miss Hooper. I think if I can get 
to sleep I shall be all right. I’m waiting to 
see Elizabeth climb up into the upper berth. 
Isn’t it fortunate I chose the lower one ? ” 
Elizabeth climbed up into the upper berth 
with surprising ease and Miss Hooper took 
the couch berth directly opposite Jean. Soon 
the lights were switched off and good-nights 
said, but not before Miss Hooper whispered. 
Please, Jean, if you want anything in the 
night, don’t hesitate to call me.” 

Jean promised, and before many minutes 
she could hear the deep breathing of the other 
two, but sleep did not seem so willing to come 
to her. She lay perfectly still a long, long 
time with her eyes wide open and when at last 


GETTING ACQUAINTED 


she dozed for a little while it was only to be 
awakened by the strange new sound of the 
machinery or the laughter of some passing 
deck- walker. And after the deck lights were 
all out and the passengers were in their rooms 
and the stillness of night had settled over the 
boat they ran into a bank of fog, and the fog- 
horn shrilly shouted its note of warning to 
all that might cross its course. And then as 
the night watches rang out she could hear the 
lookout’s assuring, All’s well,” and she tried 
to believe it and sleep. But down in that 
wrenched ankle the pain began again and her 
restlessness increased and her imagination 
stirred up such distressing pictures that at last 
she could stand it no longer and she called 
softly, Oh, Miss Hooper, will you please 
turn on the light and help me ? ” It took a 
long time to find the electric button in the 
darkness but finally the light flashed on, and 
after Jean had reluctantly told about her 
sleeplessness and the pain in her ankle Miss 
Hooper insisted upon ringing for the steward 
and asked him to send the doctor to the state- 
room immediately. 


58 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


The doctor was so long in coming that 
Miss Hooper was on the point of ringing a 
second time but just then some one knocked 
on the stateroom door and the doctor entered 
the room. If Jean had thought him funny 
when she first saw him on deck that afternoon 
with John Blair, she thought him doubly so 
now, and in spite of her pain she found it was 
all she could do to keep from laughing in his 
face. His long hair was very mussy and 
portions of it stood aggressively on end, his 
eyes had a very sleepy look, and his long, thin 
body was swathed in something which he un- 
doubtedly would have called a bath-robe, but 
which more closely resembled a much-beruf- 
fled, old-fashioned flannel wrapper. It was 
so long that it trailed far behind him as he 
walked, and was fastened round his waist with 
a heavy cord. 

As Miss Hooper and Jean told him alter- 
nately why he had been called in the middle 
of the night he echoed each sentence with his 
pleasant “ Ah-h — indeed,’' as unconcernedly 
as though they had been telling him about the 
weather. When they had finished he said he 


GETTING ACQUAINTED 59 


had forgotten to bring his medicine case with 
him but he would go back to his room and 
return very shortly with something to ease 
the pain and put Jean to sleep at once. Then 
he slowly went out of the room trailing his 
robe behind him and the three looked at each 
other and burst out laughing as the door shut 
behind him. 

“ Oh, did you ever see anything so funny in 
all your life?” said Jean. He was bad 
enough this afternoon, but now he’s a perfect 
scream. He nearly drove me mad when we 
were talking to him with those everlasting, 
^ Ah-h-indeeds,’ of his. He didn’t seem to 
care a particle, either, whether I was dying 
with pain or not. Did you notice how pe- 
culiarly he walked? I believe he’s got a 
wooden leg, for he walks so stiffly; not at all 
like any lame person I ever saw before. 

‘^Wouldn’t it be romantic to fall in love 
with an Englishman with a wooden leg? 
Come to think of it, I believe that’s why it 
took him so long to get here. He probably 
had to take the leg out of the corner and 
fasten it on. But what do you suppose is 


6o JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


keeping him so long now? It’s mighty lucky 
I’m not dying, for I’d be dead several times 
over before he’d ever help me.” 

For some unaccountable reason, unless it 
was perhaps that he was making the pills, the 
doctor did not return for almost an hour and 
the three lay in their berths and laughed at 
the vision which had interrupted their night’s 
repose. Jean became almost hysterical, but a 
good laugh was just what she needed to make 
her sleepy and when the doctor dicf finally ap- 
pear, without any explanation of his long ab- 
sence, however, she was so sleepy she could 
hardly take the medicine he offered her. But 
she managed to thank him and hear him say 
as he left the room, ‘‘ Ah, Miss Cabot, if you 
are willing, — aw — , I should like to read to 
you — aw — an awfully funny story I have, 
aw — to-morrow morning — aw — to help 
pass the time away. May I read it when the 
others are at lunch ? Aw — thank you.” 

The next day Miss Hooper and Elizabeth 
declared that they heard Jean accept the offer 
in her most gracious manner, but she always 
emphatically denied all knowledge of it. 


CHAPTER IV 

THE captain’s BIRTHDAY PARTY, AND OTHER 
THINGS 

T he next thing the three were con- 
scious of was the entrance of the 
stewardess about eight o’clock the fol- 
lowing morning with oranges and black coffee. 
Jean felt very much better, but Miss Hooper 
suggested that she stay in bed until after 
breakfast at least, and then see how she felt. 
As Elizabeth looked out through the port-hole 
she exclaimed, ‘‘ Why ! It’s raining and the 
deck is all wet; it doesn’t look at all inviting. 
I guess there won’t be many out to-day.” 

Oh, it’s early to judge the weather, Eliz- 
abeth,” said Miss Hooper. Probably it will 
clear off before noon. We very often pass 
through fogs or showers which last but a little 
while and then it’s bright and sunshiny again. 
There’s a bit of a swell on now, so get dressed 
6i 


62 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


as quickly as possible and go out on deck, for 
fresh air is the best thing you can have on a 
day like this. If you wish Til have your 
breakfast sent up there, but you must not stay 
in here. Jean won’t mind it lying down, and 
she can have her breakfast at the same time we 
are having ours. Think of the luxury of 
breakfasting in bed, Jean.” 

“ I think I’ll be all right when I get out in 
the air,” said Elizabeth. I feel a bit wob- 
bly now, but I’m going down in the dining- 
room with you if I possibly can. I want to 
be able to say I ate every meal there in perfect 
comfort.” 

“All right, Elizabeth; you can try it if you 
wish to,” answered Miss Hooper. 

But not long after Elizabeth rushed into 
“ 98 ” and flopped down on the first place she 
could find, which happened to be Miss Hoop- 
er’s couch. “ No, I’m not sick, Jean,” she ex- 
plained, “ but I sat at the table until every- 
thing began to go round so quickly I decided 
I’d be better lying down up here. I think 
after all I’ll have most of my meals served up 
on deck.” 


CAPTAIN’S BIRTHDAY PARTY 63 

When Miss Hooper came in a little later, 
both girls insisted that she stay out in the air 
for they were comfortable there and had 
plenty to talk about. So she put on her rub- 
bers and a sweater and went out to walk part 
of her five miles a day. She met the doctor 
after she had been walking a few minutes 
and he asked about his patient. When she 
told him that Jean was much better but still 
in bed and that Elizabeth was feeling her 
first qualm of seasickness and had lain down, 
too, he declared that this would be just the 
time to entertain them both with his amaz- 
ingly funny poem, so he hastened to his quar- 
ters to get the book. 

The two girls were deep in a discussion of 
Mr. Atherton and his roommates when they 
heard a gentle rap at their door. Thinking it 
was the stewardess back again they pleasantly 
called, Come in,” but to their astonished 
gaze in walked the doctor holding tightly in 
one hand a small booklet. Ah, good morn- 
ing — aw — how is my patient this morning? 
Aw — Miss Hooper told me I might — aw — 
find — aw — two patients instead of one. So 


64 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


— aw — Fve come to prescribe and — aw — 
may I read a little to you? ’’ 

I’m very much better, Doctor,” said Jean, 
‘‘ I have almost no pain in my ankle now and 
I hope to go out on deck just as soon as it 
clears up. Miss Fairfax has a slight head- 
ache but I think she’ll pull through. Won’t 
you sit down, please? We have only one 
chair to offer you. We should be delighted 
to have you read, thank you.” 

As the doctor sat down Jean turned on her 
pillow so that she could have a good view of 
Elizabeth who was lying opposite to her and 
then said, “ Oh, what are you going to read 
to us?” 

The name of the poem is ‘ Pretty Pau- 
lina ’ — aw — and it’s awfully, awfully funny.” 
Then he began to read in his soft effeminate 
voice the silly little rhyme which was much 
more suitable for five-year-olds than for col- 
lege girls. Every verse ended with ‘‘ And 
thus spoke Pretty Paulina,” and when he came 
to the refrain he would look from one girl to 
the other for approbation and exclaim, Isn’t 


CAPTAIN’S BIRTHDAY PARTY 65 


that rich? But just wait until you hear the 
next verse.” 

The girls were almost beside themselves 
with laughing, not at the poem itself, but at 
the voice and gestures of the doctor, for as 
he read he moved the book up and down in 
time with the meter of the verse and fre- 
quently used his free hand for interpretative 
gestures. The more they laughed the more he 
thought they were appreciating his rendering 
of the poem and as he turned the last page 
they were fairly convulsed with mirth. He, 
mistaking this for applause, exclaimed, “ Aw 

— I am so glad you enjoy my little poem, aw 

— suppose I read it again — aw. I never 
tire of hearing it — aw — and I am sure you 
will — aw — agree with me — aw — that it’s 
awfully funny.” 

Neither girl knew what to say, for they 
were afraid of hurting his feelings if they 
told the truth, and yet they could not stand 
another rendering. But they were spared that 
necessity for just then Miss Hooper appeared 
at the door saying, ‘‘ What is all this laughter 


66 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

about ? I heard you as I walked past the port- 
hole and I couldn’t resist coming in.” 

The girls were quite too wilted to reply im- 
mediately but the doctor, beaming over his 
spectacles, replied, “Aw — just in time. Miss 
Hooper — aw — I was on the point of read- 
ing — aw — ‘ Pretty Paulina ’ — to these very 
appreciative young ladies. Pray take this 
chair — aw — and I’ll stand here where I can 
see you all.” 

But at a weak gesture of dissent from Jean 
which Miss Hooper caught* just in time she 
replied, “ Oh, thank you. Doctor, I should en- 
joy hearing you read but I was just on the 
point of asking you to carry our invalid to 
her steamer chair where she can enjoy the 
fresh breezes. Suppose you come back in 
about half an hour and she will be ready; then 
we can have the reading out on deck.” 

This did not seem wholly to please the doc- 
tor but he left the room promising to return 
at the appointed time. No sooner had he 
left the room than the girls buried their faces 
in their pillows and gave way to their sup- 
pressed feelings. “What is the matter?” 


CAPTAIN’S BIRTHDAY PARTY 67 

asked Miss Hooper several times without ob- 
taining an answer. At last Jean raised her 
face wet with the tears of laughter and replied, 

Oh, Miss Hooper, you should have been 
here; it was awful. That ridiculous man — 
never let him get started again on one of his 
silly jingles. Positively, I can never look him 
in the face again and keep sober. But now 
Pm ready to be dressed if you’ll help me.” 

With much difficulty Jean was finally 
dressed and her swollen foot encased in a soft 
bed-slipper. She did not dare step on it, and 
sat on the edge of the bed waiting to be car- 
ried out on deck. They waited and waited 
until finally Miss Hooper exclaimed, I’m not 
going to wait a moment longer; that doctor 
simply cannot be depended upon. I shall ring 
for the stewardess and she and I can carry 
you all right.” 

In the midst of operations the doctor came 
leisurely toward them exclaiming, ‘‘ Ah, 
really! Ready so soon! I’m sorry to have 
been detained — aw — but I was called to an- 
other patient and must beg to be excused — 
aw — from reading Pretty Paulina ’ to you 


68 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

now — aw — for I must return at once — aw 
— but I hope I may have another opportunity 
in the near future.” So saying he strolled 
away and the girls gave a long sigh of relief at 
their narrow escape, and soon were comfort- 
ably settled in their steamer chairs. 

If Jean thought she was going to be lonely 
and miserable because she was obliged to sit 
in her steamer chair all day or walk around 
slowly on crutches she was mistaken. To be 
sure she couldn’t swim or walk or play the 
deck games but she held her little court on 
upper deck where her ardent admirers, and 
they were many, came to pay her homage. 
She was so cheerful through it all that every 
one, from the captain to the deck-steward, be- 
came her devoted slaves and carried and 
fetched for her as they might have done for 
any Eastern princess. She laughingly de- 
clared that one had to make his way to her 
through the books and magazines and candy- 
boxes which were piled around her chair. So 
many people offered to read aloud to her that 
she declined them all, fearing lest by accepting 
some offers she would hurt the feelings of 


CAPTAIN’S BIRTHDAY PARTY 69 

those she refused, for she could not possibly 
accept them all. 

Fortunately steamer chairs can be moved 
easily, and when there were exciting shuffle- 
board tournaments to be watched or the Adri- 
atic passed another liner or merchant ship or 
a whale was sighted, some one always rushed 
to where Jean was sitting to tell her about it 
and to see that she was carried where she 
could get the best view. The two Princeton 
men and Mr. Atherton were constantly in at- 
tendance, but young Blair seemed to feel that 
he was in the way and seldom joined the 
young people who centered around Jean. Oc- 
casionally when he saw her alone for a few 
minutes he would approach her and talk ani- 
matedly, but the moment one of the others 
joined them he would mumble a few words 
and disappear into the background. 

One afternoon, the third or fourth day out, 
as Jean sat alone writing he came up to her 
and asked if she would be willing to have her 
steamer chair carried up to the hurricane deck 
the next morning and sit there a little while 
so that he might sketch her. He was very 


70 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

anxious to do a water-color of her in the warm 
sunshine with the wind blowing her yellow 
hair. After she had said she would be glad 
to do something for him in return for his 
many favors he replied, Thank you very 
much. Will you be ready about ten o'clock? 
And if it’s perfectly convenient, will you 
please wear your white middy blouse with the 
red sailor knot? Take a book along to read 
if you like, then you won’t be bored to death. 
Of course we can’t keep other people away but 
I hope they won’t bother us. I know a rather 
secluded spot up near the bridge just beyond 
the captain’s quarters, where few people pass. 
I’ve been trying to sketch a little there but 
haven’t been in the right mood until to-day. 
Now I seem to have an inspiration and my 
fingers fairly itch to be at work,” and he 
smiled and bowed low. 

Oh, you flatter me,” said Jean, blushing, 

but tell me something of your work. I’m 
interested already. I know very little about 
artists, but pictures have always fascinated 
me.” 

And then Blair, forgetting himself in the 


CAPTAIN’S BIRTHDAY PARTY 71 

enthusiasm of his subject, told her about his 
early struggles and future hopes and the dream 
that was about to come true of his studying 
with the great masters in Paris. 

The next morning found the two seated in 
the wind and the sun of the upper deck, he 
on his low camp-stool, braced against the 
deck-house, with his sketching-block against 
his knees and brushes and paint at hand; she 
reposing comfortably in her steamer chair near 
the rail, keeping her gaze seaward in order 
that he might paint the desired profile. 
Every now and then her curious gaze wan- 
dered back to the worker and lingered there 
until he laughingly reminded her of the pose. 
In one of the moments of relaxation as she 
turned round in her chair she caught sight of 
the captain standing in the doorway of his 
stateroom, sketch-book and pencil in hand, ap- 
parently absorbed, like Blair, in sketching her. 

As the captain looked up and found her 
eyes fixed upon him, he smiled and closing 
his book, came toward them. Now I am 
discovered,” he said. ''I hope you will par- 
don the liberty I have taken of sharing your 


72 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

model, Mr. Blair, but really you know, I 
couldn’t resist such a charming picture.” 

** Why, Captain, are you an artist, too ? ” 
exclaimed Jean in surprise. 

“ O dear no. Only a dabbler in some of 
my spare moments. This is just my Memory 
Book in which I keep the people and things 
that interest me on shipboard.” 

“ It must be awfully interesting,” said Jean, 
“ may I look at it, especially my own picture ? ” 

‘‘ Yes, if you really care to see it and prom- 
ise not to show it to Mr. Blair.” 

Jean promised and soon was laughing over 
the humorous sketches the captain had made, 
although here and there were more serious 
ones which showed a veritable genius for 
catching expressions of many unsuspecting 
subjects. Seating himself with his back to 
the rail near Jean he began talking to her as 
he turned to a fresh leaf in the sketch-book 
and idly commenced a sketch of the artist. 
Jean watched him for a few moments with 
great interest, then she finally said, ‘‘ Do tell 
me, Captain, where did you learn to draw so 
cleverly ? ” 



“Why, Captain, are you an artist, too? ’’—Page 72. 







CAPTAIN’S BIRTHDAY PARTY 73 

Dear me, little girl, that would be telling 
you the story of my life.” 

Oh, that’s just what I’d like to hear, Cap- 
tain,” said Jean eagerly. 

“ Well, you see my father was a R. A., 
which means in England that you’re a really 
and truly painter, a member of the Royal 
Academy. So you see that’s probably how I 
came by the artistic streak. And then, too, 
father gave me, at odd moments, lessons in 
drawing. But I was of a roving disposition 
and took to the seas. It was a hard life with 
little time for the fine arts, and I soon forgot 
much that he taught me. But it crops out 
now and then and I can’t resist the temptation 
to try my hand at it. Perhaps I might have 
made something out of it, but as it was I chose 
my own course and I guess I’ve been as happy 
as most men.” 

‘‘Why, how old are you. Captain? You 
talk as though you were very, very old, and 
you surely don’t look so.” 

“ Not so old in years. Miss Cabot, as in 
experience, but that reminds me, I have a 
birthday to-morrow. Why couldn’t we cele- 


JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

brate and have a birthday party with a cake 
and candles ? 

‘‘Splendid!” cried Jean. “One of the 
things I wanted to do most was to sit at the 
captain’s table. And to think I should be in- 
vited to his birthday party! Perhaps by to- 
morrow night I shall be able to travel like a 
human being again and walk into the dining- 
room if some one will help me a little.” 

“ I guess you needn’t worry about that, eh, 
Mr. Blair?” 

“ Not if I can get there first. Captain. May 
I have that honor. Miss Cabot ? ” 

“ O dear yes, and thank you,” said Jean, 
“ if you don’t think I’ll be too much of a bur- 
den.” 

And so it was that on the following even- 
ing about half-past eight o’clock Blair helped 
Jean into the dining-room and over to the 
captain’s table. She walked remarkably well 
and there was no question but that if she was 
careful she would soon be able to walk alone. 
They were almost the last ones to arrive, and 
after they and Elizabeth and Miss Hooker 
greeted the host of the evening he gave the 


CAPTAIN’S BIRTHDAY PARTY 75 

signal for everybody to sit down. Clever little 
place-cards made by the captain, although none 
but Jean and Blair guessed it, told them where 
to sit. To her surprise, Jean found herself 
at the right of the captain, who, of course, sat 
at the head of the table; at her other side was 
’ a jolly old Englishman from Yorkshire who 
had been spending “ a couple of months ex- 
ploring the States,” as he said. As Jean 
looked round at the guests to see who were 
the captain’s real friends that he would invite 
to his party she smiled a little at his choice and 
although she recognized one millionaire among 
them, for the most part they were not those 
whom she had imagined he would invite. 
Besides her own party there were the two 
Yorkshire gentlemen whom she had noticed 
spending most of their time up in one corner 
of the deck playing checkers, a sweet little old 
lady and her husband, going on their first 
visit to their daughter, who had married a 
German and settled in Berlin, a dashing young 
cavalry officer and his wife and daughter, a 
charming young girl of fourteen or so, who 
were on their way to France where the father 


76 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


was to study the cavalry system and the 
daughter was to be put in school. There were 
also a New York millionaire, who kept his 
dollars in the background, a senator from 
a western State, with whom the captain de- 
lighted in talking politics, and a half-dozen or 
so of the young friends of Jean. 

The table was beautifully decorated in spite 
of the fact that fresh flowers are not avail- 
able in mid-ocean, and in the center was an 
enormous frosted cake with innumerable small 
lighted candles upon it. The captain whis- 
pered to Jean at his first opportunity, ‘‘ You 
wanted to know how old I was. Miss Cabot. 
Count the candles and see what they tell you.” 

But there are almost a hundred candles, I 
can tell without counting. What an old man 
you are! But you certainly don’t look it.” 

In some way it had reached the captain’s 
ears that Jean didn’t like the ice-cream on 
board so he had requested the chef to make 
some real American ice-cream for this espe- 
cial occasion, and with great glee he served 
her with a heaping dish of chocolate cream. 


CAPTAIN’S BIRTHDAY PARTY 77 


“ How is this for ice-cream, Miss Cabot ? Is 
it as good as Briggs’s ? ” 

Why, Captain, how did you know any- 
thing about Briggs’s ice-cream?” 

‘‘ Oh, a little bird told me. Speaking of 
ice-cream, do you hear that new sound from 
the machinery to-night ? ” 

Yes, what is it? ” asked several. 

Our supply of ice has given out during this 
extremely hot weather and that is our new 
machine for manufacturing it. If any of you 
care to see it, I shall be pleased to have you 
accompany me to-morrow morning when I go 
down to inspect it. It’s the first time it has 
been used since it was installed.” 

Almost every one was delighted at the pros- 
pect of going but Jean exclaimed, Oh, how 
I dislike the continual sound of machinery; 
it’s the only unpleasant thing there is. How 
much better it would be if we didn’t have 
to hear it all the time. If it would only stop 
for just a few moments.” 

Perhaps so, but if the machinery on this 
boat or on any other should stop some night 


78 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


even just for a moment, I think it would wake 
you up from the soundest sleep you ever had. 
Perhaps you’ll experience it some time for 
yourself and if you tell the truth I think you’ll 
admit that you prefer hearing the machinery 
to having it suddenly stop. Now I’m going 
to ask every one to be prepared to tell the 
funniest story he knows. We’ll begin with 
you, Miss Cabot.” 

Jean was taken quite unawares, but remem- 
bering one of her father’s favorites she told 
that in her fresh enthusiastic way and had 
the table laughing heartily. When the stories 
were told they left the table and moved over 
to a corner of the huge dining-room where 
the captain had had a piano placed. It was 
quite a musical little company, and nearly 
everybody could sing or play. Much to the 
surprise of her own friends, Elizabeth was 
prevailed upon to sing some simple ballads 
and as an encore, at Jean’s suggestion, she 
recited, ‘‘ The Lady of Shalot,” which had won 
her the prize at prize-speaking in June. The 
mention of college brought up many personal 
anecdotes and it was very late when the little 


CAPTAIN’S BIRTHDAY PARTY 79 

old lady insisted it was time for her to be ex- 
cused. 

As the good-nights were being exchanged 
the captain said, “ We’ll be seeing land to- 
morrow, if all goes well. We’ll probably 
sight the Irish coast about noon.” 

“ When do we arrive at Queenstown ? ” 
asked Jean. 

Early the next morning I expect. Many 
of the passengers will have left the boat be- 
fore you’re awake. However, there’s a lot 
of luggage and freight to be taken off, so 
there’ll be plenty of time for you to see a 
good deal of the city if you wish to.” 

No, thank you,” said Jean. I’d like to 
but I don’t believe my foot will let me. I 
want to be all right when we reach Liverpool 
so I must be careful to-morrow. What time 
will we dock in Liverpool ? ” 

'' Probably about noon, day after to-mor- 
row. If we make good time it may be earlier. 
We’ve had a record trip so far. I cannot re- 
member seeing the ocean smoother during an 
entire trip. And it’s been very comfortable 
except when we came through the Gulf 


8o JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


Stream, but we’ve got to expect hot weather 
there. I hope you’ll all have as good luck 
coming home but September and October are 
pretty squally months. I wish I might take 
you all back on the Adriatic, but it seldom 
happens that the same ones return with me.” 

The guests seemed reluctant to go but one 
after another they left the room and went 
their different ways. It was glorious moon- 
light out of doors and when Jean expressed a 
desire to stay out in it a while Miss Hooper 
replied, Not to-night, dear; it’s very late but 
^ to-morrow night will be our last on board and 
you may sit out then and enjoy yourselves 
as long as you please.” 

The next day they sighted land and the 
camera fiends all brought out their cameras to 
catch first views of the Irish coast in all its 
rocky beauty. When a sufficient number of 
these had been taken they snapped the pas- 
sengers and officers and there followed a merry 
time taking down addresses and making prom- 
ises to exchange films. With the sighting of 
land and the stop at Queenstown there was 
a perceptible change in the people. The days 


CAPTAIN’S BIRTHDAY PARTY 8i 


of listless idling were over, for suit-cases 
must be packed and preparations made for 
leaving the boat. Everywhere one heard, 
‘‘ Where are you going? ” By what route? ” 

Perhaps we shall meet in London.” Send 
my letters to the American Express Offices.” 

Do you dread the customs ? ” Have you 
paid your tips? Aren’t they awful? Cost 
more than your ticket over.” 

At night there was a happy group of young 
people gathered in their steamer chairs around 
Jean, bathing themselves in the beauty of the 
moonlight as it fell upon the placid waters. 
They were singing softly, and as their songs 
fell upon the ears of many an older passen- 
ger he stopped and listened and wished him- 
self back at that happiest stage of life’s voyage 
where it’s all sunshine and moonshine and 
smooth sailing. After the songs were fin- 
ished, plans were made for their first reunion 
in the fall, and Jean said, I suppose we’ve 
got to g'o in sometime; we’re the last ones 
out and I see the deck-steward coming over 
to warn us. I hate to have it all end, for 
we’ll never have quite these experiences again 


82 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


and they’ve been very happy ones. Remem- 
ber that for the next three years I’m going 
to be at Ashton College ’winters and in the 
mountains of California summers and you’re 
always welcome at both places. Of course 
• we’ll see each other in the morning but it will 
be different from this. So let’s give three 
cheers for the Adriatic and say good-night.” 

After they had cheered the good ship and 
its captain, they cheered every member of the 
little group until finally there was nobody left 
to cheer. Then Miss Hooper said, Now we 
must say good-night or we’ll not get a par- 
ticle of sleep,” and they all went to their 
rooms more tired than any one of them would 
have admitted. As Miss Hooper and Eliza- 
beth walked down the passageway they heard 
Jean behind them say, “ I’ll come in just a 
minute. Miss Hooper.” And had they been 
out on deck they might have seen a solitary 
figure in the moonlight saying good-bye to all 
the beauty of the night. 


CHAPTER V 


SEEING CHESTER 

T he next morning it rained, not a 
gentle drizzle but a steady downpour. 
Fortunately there was no swell and 
the perfect calm made it possible for every 
one to enjoy his last meal down in the dining- 
room. The captain’s prophecy had come true, 
and they were to land before noon, probably 
between ten and eleven o’clock. 

After breakfast was over and Jean had fas- 
tened her bulging suit-case and locked her 
steamer-trunk for the last time, she put on 
her rain-coat and rubbers, took her umbrella, 
and went out on deck. It made her smile 
to herself to see other enthusiasts like her- 
self walking the decks with their opened um- 
brellas but there was too much to be seen to 
let a little thing like rain interfere. Before 
long they were steaming up the Mersey River, 

83 


84 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


filled with craft of every conceivable kind 
from the great liners to the egg-shells of 
dories, and gradually the outlines of Liverpool 
pierced through the mist and rain. Few of 
the women passengers were out, but any num- 
ber of the men walked up and down and Mr. 
Atherton, being very familiar with the har- 
bor, pointed out to her some of the interesting 
sights. 

Miss Hooper’s party was going to Chester 
and thence to Warwick and the Land of 
Shakspere, and Jean was delighted when she 
found that Mr. Atherton and the Princeton 
men wereTo stay over one night there before 
going to London. With a little disappoint- 
ment she heard that Blair was going direct 
to Paris, so eager was he to be at work. But 
as they walked together for the last time on 
the upper deck he told her he hoped to see 
her in a year or two when he returned to 
America. 

Suddenly the boat stopped, and Jean, a lit- 
tle alarmed, insisted upon rushing below and 
finding out the reason. It did not take long 
to discover that it was necessary to await a 


SEEING CHESTER 


85 


harbor pilot and a tug-boat to conduct them 
up the last few miles of the river, as it was 
a very difficult matter to steer through so 
crowded a thoroughfare,’' especially on so 
misty a morning. The fog-horns blew from 
so many vessels that it was almost deafening 
and more than one passenger began to wish he 
were safely landed and away from the con- 
fusion. 

At last the great vessel was warped into 
its berth and made secure by the immense 
hempen hawsers. Then the gang-planks were 
pushed out with a rattle and bang and deck- 
hands ran up and down them making final 
preparations. It was some time before the 
passengers could alight, and when they did 
so they were carried along by the hustling 
throng to the custom house where they waited 
for what seemed hours before their trunks 
were deposited in the sections marked with 
every letter of the alphabet. 

After Jean and Elizabeth and Miss Hooper 
finally located their trunks in C ” and F ” 
and H,” they sat dejectedly down on them 
and awaited their turn. When two burly in- 


86 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


specters came up to where Jean was sitting, 
they opened the suit-case and trunk with much 
bravado but after giving them only a cursory 
glance slammed down the covers and marking 
them with several crosses passed on to the 
next victim. Jean muttered to herself, 

Well, if that isn’t the biggest farce I ever 
saw ! I’d like to have them tell me what good 
that did them! They couldn’t see a thing I 
had.” 

About half-past twelve o’clock ‘‘ the three ” 
were ready to leave the custom house, and as 
they passed down the long passageway they 
gazed pityingly at the hundreds of steerage 
passengers who shivered in the cold, damp 
room in which they waited their turn, which 
might not come until late in the afternoon. 
Once outside the building, they found them- 
selves in the midst of clamoring cabbies, who 
insisted upon carrying them to their destina- 
tion. Miss Hooper chose what she considered 
the least harmless-looking and bargained with 
him to be carried with their luggage to Lime 
Street Station. After the price was set, 
which, after much arguing still seemed pre- 


SEEING CHESTER 


87 


posterous the two girls got into the cab, the 
suit-cases were piled up beside the driver’s 
seat, and then Miss Hooper and the obliging 
cabby disappeared in the custom house to lo- 
cate the trunks and have them fastened to the 
back of the one small cab. 

“ Oh, I’m so hungry,” said Jean, it seems 
as though I couldn’t wait another minute for 
something to eat.” 

‘‘ I should think you might be,” answered 
Elizabeth ; you ate scarcely any breakfast this 
morning. But I’m afraid you’ll be hungrier 
still, for Miss Hooper said we wouldn’t have 
lunch until we reached Chester. She hopes 
to get a train there immediately and it’s only 
a short ride down. She says it will be better 
to go directly to our hotel there and have a 
late lunch instead of trying to get something 
here in Liverpool.” 

Well, then, under those circumstances I 
suppose I shall be obliged to wait. Oh, if I 
only had some of that Peters’s chocolate ! Did 
you ever see such huge advertising signs ? 
The more I look at that sign, the hungrier 
I get. There doesn’t seem to be a store in 


88 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

sight anywhere, but then I shouldn’t dare to 
get out of this cab, if there were one. Isn’t 
this alley- way a dirty, dark place? And I 
don’t like the looks of these cab-drivers either. 
I wish some one we know would come along 
and I’d ask him to stand and talk to us until 
Miss Hooper comes back.” 

There’s Jack Raymond now, just coming 
out of the doorway,” said Elizabeth. “ But 
he doesn’t seem to be looking our way.” 

“ I’m going to get out and speak to him,” 
and Jean opened the door and went in his di- 
rection and soon returned with him explaining 
what she wanted him to do. 

Why, of course. I’d be delighted,” he said, 
and perhaps I can use the extra seat in your 
cab and ride up with you to the station. The 
other fellows are probably up there now 
fuming because I haven’t put in an appearance, 
but you see my name is so far down the alpha- 
bet I thought the men would never get to me. 
And then, too, I had to send a cable to my 
mother and that took more time. I told the 
fellows to go along and I’d join them as soon 


SEEING CHESTER 89 

as I could. Perhaps they’re already on their 
way to Chester.” 

“ Oh, I must send a cable, too. I had for- 
gotten all about it in the excitement, but when 
Miss Hooper comes back I’ll ask her if we 
can go and send one. Where is the office ? ” 

‘‘ Down on the dock, just beyond where our 
boat landed. There’s a sub-post-station there, 
too, and I mailed my first letters and postal 
cards home. Just look at this bunch of Eng- 
lish money I got for change. Aren’t these 
pennies heavy ? I suppose this is regular 
English weather, always raining they say, but 
if I’m any kind of a prophet, it’ll clear be- 
fore long for it’s lighting up quite a bit now. 
The first purchase I make is a rain-coat; I 
loaned mine at college, commencement week, 
and I haven’t thought about it since. Won’t 
you have some chocolate ? I saw some Peters’s 
down in a little store on the dock and I 
couldn’t resist.” 

‘‘ Oh, lead me to it. You’ve saved my life, 
Mr. Raymond,” said Jean. ‘‘ I was just wish- 
ing I could have some. One of the girls told 


90 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


me just before we started that you never could / 
buy any decent candy abroad but that Peters' 
and Cailler’s chocolate were much fresher and 
better than at home. Pm a fiend at chocolate, 
you know. Til have to buy a generous sup- 
ply when we go down to send the cable for 
we aren’t going to have lunch until we reach 
Chester and I’m nearly famished now.” 

Look,” said Elizabeth. ‘‘ Isn’t that the 
captain? How different he looks in those 
clothes. I can’t say I like that big Panama 
hat on him. I wonder if those are his boys. 
The little one looks just like him.” 

‘‘ He’s coming this way,” said Jean. ‘‘ I 
hope he’ll stop so we can say good-bye again. 
Yes, I’m sure those are his boys. He told 
me he had six and the oldest one is in the 
army.” 

Did you know he was quite a business man, 
Miss Cabot?” asked Jack Raymond. ''He 
and a partner run one of the largest florist 
shops in New York and another in London. 
He’s sort of a silent partner and doesn’t say 
much about it, but I found that out one day 
from one of the engineers.” 


SEEING CHESTER 


91 


I didn’t know about it, but I’m not sur- 
prised; he’s a very clever man in his quiet 
way,” said Jean. Oh, he sees us; he’s tak- 
ing off that unbecoming hat. Let’s get out 
and talk with him a minute. I want to see 
those cunning boys.” 

When the captain came up to them he 
seemed very glad to see the young people and 
introduced his boys to them. As they were 
talking. Miss Hooper and the cabby returned 
with one of the trunks, which, with great diffi- 
culty, was placed upon a somewhat trembly- 
looking trunk-rack and the man went back for 
the other two. 

After the greetings were over the captain 
exclaimed, Now, what’s to prevent you all 
coming down to my home this afternoon to 
meet my wife and the rest of the family? 
It’s only a little way to Seacombe and we 
can take one of the river steamers that go back 
and forth all day. My wife will be delighted 
to see you, for she’s quite as fond of Amer- 
icans as I am. By the way, she’s up in the 
city shopping now, waiting for me. The boys 
came down here alone to see the boat come 


92 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


in. Do you know, Fve never come back on a 
trip for the last fifteen years but that some 
one of my family was here to welcome me. 
Well, what do you say. Miss Hooper, to 
spending the rest of the day with us? ” 

Thank you, very much. Captain, but we 
have made our plans to go directly to Chester 
this afternoon. However, we sail home from 
Liverpool and perhaps then we can visit your 
home. I should be delighted to do so, for I 
long to see a real English home. We shall 
be obliged to make most of our stops at hotels, 
so can see very little of the home life of 
which one hears so much.” 

‘‘ Very well. Miss Hooper, but I’m afraid 
if we don’t see you now, we never shall. You 
can’t tell what may happen during the summer 
and I’m a firm believer in the saying, * A bird 
in the hand is worth two in the bush.’ Is there 
anything I can do for you in the city? I see 
the cabby has your trunks strapped on and 
probably he’d like to start along. I hope the 
trunks will stay on; you’d better keep your 
weather eye on them, they don’t look very se- 
cure to me. It’s been a real pleasure to know 


SEEING CHESTER 


93 


you all and I hope we shall meet again. Good- 
bye and a happy summer to you all.'’ And 
the captain and his two young sons disappeared 
from sight as the cab rolled away toward the 
station. 

They arrived at Lime Street Station just 
in time to catch the 1.15 train for Chester 
and were not surprised, as they entered their 
compartment, to find Mr. Atherton and Bob 
Bowker already seated there. Bob began to 
expostulate with Jack for his delay. “ Oh, I 
guess it's easy enough to see why you're so 
late," he said, with a knowing look in the 
direction of the two girls. “ But you've missed 
it being so late. For we saw Blair and the 
Allen girls and the Ridgeways and a lot more 
people off on the London Express. I think 
Helen Allen was really disappointed not to 
say good-bye to you. She seemed to have 
an awful crush on you the last few days. 

Then, while we were waiting for this train 
to come in there was a great stir over a part 
of a crack regiment which went away on the 
train on the next track. I never saw such 
tall, good-looking soldiers in my life. If 


94 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


Helen Allen had seen them she’d surely have 
forgotten all about you.” 

‘‘If you’ll pardon me, ladies, I’m going to 
get out my Baedeker and do some hard 
boning. I don’t know a thing about Chester 
except that it is an old Roman town and 
everybody ought to see it. I’ve got such a 
short time to stay there that I want to see 
everything worth while as quickly as possible. 
Don’t anybody speak to me please, until we 
arrive.” Jack deigned no other response. 

“ Conceited thing,” said Jean. “ I guess 
we can dispense with your charming society 
for a few minutes. We’ll leave you to your 
own sweet self and we’ll go over in the comer 
and I’m sure Elizabeth will tell us all she has 
been reading about Chester and that will save 
us the trouble of reading it ourselves. Won’t 
you all have some of this delicious chocolate? 
No, you needn’t pass Mr. Raymond any; it 
might interfere with his reading.” 

They chattered gaily about the sights in the 
quaint mediaeval town until the train stopped 
and the guards called out, “ Chester,” and they 
alighted with numberless other sightseers. 


SEEING CHESTER 


95 


Which hotel will you stop at, Miss 
Hooper?” asked Mr. Atherton. ‘‘We fel- 
lows are going to the Grosvenor.” 

“We shall stay at the Hop Pole. IPs not 
as large as the Grosvenor but it has been 
highly recommended to me by one of my 
friends who spent some time here last sum- 
mer. We shall be very glad to see you there 
any time. Now that it has cleared off we can 
spend what there is left of the afternoon after 
our lunch taking a general view of the city. 
Probably we shall meet you somewhere in the 
course of the afternoon.” And taking a cab 
as the others boarded an electric tramway they 
were soon at their hotels eating the luncheon 
which they all so much needed. They found 
it very much like all other luncheons they were 
in the habit of eating, until it came to the last 
course and when the rosy-cheeked maid asked 
Jean whether she would have cold or hot 
sweets she looked at her in amazement and 
stammered, “ Why — er — what — are-—' 
sweets ? ” 

She soon found out that sweets were the 
desserts, generally cooked fruits with custards 


96 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

poured over them, or tarts without an upper 
crust, served in the same way. Then there 
were quantities of little cakes of every shape 
and variety, but no pies, or baked puddings 
or cake, dear to the hearts of Americans. It 
took but one meal for her to discover that 
“ sweets ” play a very important part in an 
English meal. 

Their rooms proved to be large front ones 
facing Eastgate Street which gave them an 
excellent view of the busy section of the city. 
After the rain had stopped it became much 
warmer and the girls changed their traveling 
suits for thin walking-skirts and shirt-waists 
and put on their broad-brimmed sailor hats, 
over which they draped veils. In the best of 
spirits the three left the hotel for their first 
visit to the ‘‘ Rows.” 

The Rows ” are continuous galleries or 
arcades occupying the place of the front rooms 
of the first floors of the houses lining four 
of the principal streets. These covered pas- 
sages are approached from the street by flights 
of steps and contain a second row of shops. 
The shops are full of salable articles of every 


SEEING CHESTER 


97 

description and contain many a real treasure 
in the way of prints and antiques. 

As they walked through the “ Rows the 
girls looked more often at the passing crowds 
than at anything else and found themselves 
staring continually at the hair and head-cov- 
erings of the girls of their own age. The 
hair, in most cases, seemed very bushy and 
curly and was bobbed low in the neck; and 
they wore on their heads huge caps of worsted 
without any particular shape but which gen- 
erally lopped down over their foreheads or 
over one ear. They were a cross between a 
child’s tam-o’-shanter and an old-fashioned 
golf cap and impressed one as being very ugly. 

As often as the girls dared they stared but 
found to their amazement that they were be- 
ing stared at proportionally. At last as they 
passed a group of what they afterward de- 
cided were shop girls out on a half-holiday, 
they heard one of them say to the others, 
“ Say, girls, catch on to the hats ! Americans, 
I lay you ! And look at the veils, will you ! ” 
And then they laughed in the bold, hard way 
these girls can do. 


98 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


Although they had gone through only about 
half of the Rows,” this remark spoilt the 
pleasure for Jean and Elizabeth and they de- 
clared that they had seen enough for that day. 

^ When they were in the street again Elizabeth 
said, Don’t you think it would be better, Jean, 
if we took our veils off and put them in our 
bags? We evidently are attracting so much 
attention with them on our hats that it’s very 
unpleasant.” 

After they had removed their veils they 
walked down Eastgate Street past God’s 
Providence House ” and Bishop Lloyd’s 
House,” two of the oldest houses in the city, 
built in the 17th century, and on toward the 
Cathedral. They viewed this splendid Nor- 
man structure from without but decided to 
leave the interior until Sunday when they 
could attend service there. Jean’s ankle be- 
gan to bother her and Miss Hooper insisted 
that they go back to the hotel slowly and leave 
the Walls ” until another day. As they wan- 
dered leisurely in and out of the narrow streets 
they came upon the great Cheese Market be- 
hind the town hall where the Cheshire Cheese 


SEEING CHESTER 


99 


is sold. There were great quantities of vege- 
tables and fruits, game and flowers upon the 
floor and in stalls and hung up on the sides 
of the building. Thrifty farmers and their 
wives made the sales and thrust one thing 
after another upon possible customers. It be- 
gan to grow stuffy and they were glad to be 
out in the air again. 

As they walked past the houses, Elizabeth 
exclaimed, “ I think the English people must 
be very fond of their homes for they are so 
clean and so well kept and there are flowers 
in all the windows even when there are gar- 
dens out of doors. I wonder what that lovely 
yellow flower is we see in all the windows. 
Can it be the primrose ? 

Yes,^’ said Miss Hooper, I think it is, 
although I am not sure about it. I imagine 
one of the things that will impress us most 
in England will be the love that every one 
seems to have for his home. How is your 
ankle now, Jean?’’ 

It is tired, I must admit,” answered Jean, 
"'but I hate to give up anything. I think I 
should like to get upon one of those queer- 


100 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

looking double-decker electric cars and take a 
ride before dinner/’ 

Well, we can,” said Miss Hooper. The 
trams run to Saltney, a little town just outside 
the city and we will have just about time to 
go there before dinner.” So saying, she 
hailed a passing electric tram and they climbed 
up to the second story, paid their penny and 
were off. Again they were impressed with the 
beauty and seclusion of the homes of even the 
middle classes and on their return watched a 
beautiful sunset fall over the ancient city. 

When they reached the hotel they found 
dinner ready and just as they were finishing. 
Jack Raymond’s card was handed to them. 
They hastened to the parlors and found both 
of the fellows there. 

‘‘ Where have you been all the afternoon? ” 
asked Jack. “ We’ve been here twice and 
couldn’t get you either time and we’ve done 
the whole city and didn’t catch one glimpse 
of you anywhere. Have you planned any- 
thing special for to-night? We’ve hired an 
automobile and would like you all to go out 
joy-riding with us. We’ll start in about fif- 


SEEING CHESTER 


lOI 


teen minutes if you can be ready. You see 
I’m taking it for granted that you’ll go.” 

Indeed, we’ll be delighted,” said Miss 
Hooper. ''We took a look at the ' Rows,’ 
and the Cathedral, and the Market, and then 
a tram ride to Saltney. Jean’s ankle wouldn’t 
allow us to do the ' Walls ’ but we’ve saved 
that for to-morrow and a service at the 
Cathedral on Sunday. And then bright and 
early Monday morning we’ll start for Strat- 
ford-on-Avon.” 

" Well, then to-night we can see the ' Walls ’ 
on our way up to Eaton Hall. You know 
the twilight lasts until nearly ten o’clock now, 
so we can see almost as well as in the day- 
time. I’m going out now to get the machine 
and call for Mr. Atherton and then we’ll come 
back for you,” said Jack, as he started for the 
door. 

" Great! We’ll be ready in fifteen minutes, 
sure,” said Jean. 

But in less time than that the six were 
seated in the big automobile and were spin- 
ning away over the smooth, well-kept roads. 
The fellows had walked the two miles round 


102 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


the top of the walls in the afternoon and so 
told the others what a wonderful experience 
they had in store for the next day. Here and 
there they caught fleeting glances of the old 
Roman walls which years before had made 
the city into a Roman camp, and the towers 
rising above it, and their minds went back 
to the days when Caesar and his conquering 
legions had possessed themselves of Britain. 
They followed the winding Dee for four and a 
half miles until they reached the grounds of 
Eaton Hall, the seat of the Duke of West- 
minster. 

They received permission to ride slowly into 
the grounds and wound in and out the avenues 
of the gardens with their extensive green- 
houses and terraces. Occasionally they 
caught sight of the mansion with its countless 
towers and turrets clear against the evening 
sky. When the girls expressed a desire to 
enter, they were told it was only allowed dur- 
ing certain hours of the day. 

‘‘ Don’t be disappointed, Jean,” said Miss 
Hooper, “ we may find time to-morrow to ride 
up again in one of the little river steamers, but 


SEEING CHESTER 


103 

if we don't, we have all the rest of the summer 
to explore English castles. They're all pretty 
much alike, I imagine, and like cathedrals, 
too many of them become tiresome." 

Leaving Eaton Hall and riding to the west, 
they came to Hawarden Castle, for a long 
time the residence of Mr. Gladstone, the great 
premier of England, standing in a picturesque 
park, which contains the ruins of an old cas- 
tle. Here again they could ride through the 
Park but could not enter any of the buildings. 
But they were content to ride among the cen- 
tury-old limes and elms and see what time 
and care can produce in the way of trees and 
gardens. 

The roads back to the city were in excellent 
condition and it took but a little while to 
reach the hotel. Good-byes had to be said 
for Mr. Atherton and the boys were to take 
early trains back to Liverpool to catch the 
London express. They agreed to meet as 
soon as possible at the American Express 
Company's rooms in London and Miss Hooper 
gave them her address in Russell Square in 
case they did not meet at the office. ‘‘ Any- 


104 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


way,” said she in parting, we’ll be sure to see 
each other in the National Gallery, one always 
finds his American friends there.” 

The next day, Saturday, they spent in lei- 
surely sight-seeing and rather missed their 
shipboard acquaintances. In the morning 
they walked the circuit of the “ Walls ” and 
viewed the city from the different vantage- 
points. At last reluctantly leaving the 
‘‘ Walls ” behind they wandered down to 
the spot where poetry says once lived “ The 
Miller of Dee.” — In the afternoon they took 
the little steamer to Eccleston Ferry and 
walked up through the park to the old man- 
sion which they entered by the stable-yard en- 
trance. They found so much to interest them 
that they almost missed the last steamer down 
at five o’clock. 

After dinner that evening as they were sit- 
ting in their room Jean exclaimed, “ I think 
I’ve seen all I want to of Chester. It’s beau- 
tiful, but I’m afraid we’ll be lonesome here 
over Sunday with all our friends gone.” 

“ Oh, I don’t think so,” answered Miss 
Hooper. I am confident you’ll be very glad 


SEEING CHESTER 


105 


you stayed for I have a surprise for to-mor- 
row. The Lord High Justice of England is 
to attend the morning service at the Cathedral 
and all Chester will turn out to do him homage. 
It may be the nearest look we shall have at 
royalty for he is to be attended with great 
pomp and ceremony. He comes to open the 
Assizes here. Chester, you know, is the cap- 
ital of Cheshire and is the seat of a bishop 
as well. Don’t you think that sounds inter- 
esting in addition to the fact that the Cathedral 
is one of the oldest and most beautiful in all 
England? ” 

“ Yes, it does sound attractive, but what 
shall we do all the afternoon and evening?” 
asked Jean. 

‘‘ Oh, I am sure there will be something 
pleasant ; there always is, you know,” answered 
Miss Hooper. 

It was a little difficult to awaken the tired 
girls on Sunday morning for they were sleep- 
ing heavily, but when at last they were up 
and dressed they ate a hasty breakfast and 
started for the Cathedral for morning service 
at quarter past ten o’clock. In spite of their 


io6 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


efforts it was long after that time when they 
arrived and the Lord High Justice and his 
train had entered the church and been escorted 
to the very front. The great Cathedral was 
crowded and the three ’’ could not find seats 
together but were seated separately in the back. 
They could see little of the beauty and hear 
nothing of the service except the hymns in 
which they joined. Still they were impressed 
by the great size of the edifice and the hun- 
dreds of people worshipping together. 

After a long time in which they heard not 
one word of the service Miss Hooper arose 
and motioned to the girls to follow her out 
of the church. Gaining the open air she said 
she had begun to feel faint in the close air 
inside and as none of them could hear or see 
she thought it better to be out of doors wan- 
dering round the grounds. And then when 
the service was ended they could hurry back 
to the entrance and see the departure of the 
high dignitary of the crown. 

As they were walking slowly about they 
met a young lady apparently wandering as list- 
lessly as they. All at once they stopped at 


SEEING CHESTER 


107 

the same place to listen to a response from 
the choir that floated out through an open 
window. The spell of the music seemed to 
make them acquainted and they began speak- 
ing of the service. Gradually it came out 
that the young lady was the choir-master’s 
daughter, but she had been unable to attend 
the service although she wished very much 
to see the Lord High Justice as he left the 
church. It did not take long for her to dis- 
cover that the three strangers were Americans 
and in a strange place, so she quickly invited 
them for tea that afternoon at her home. It 
soon seemed as though they had always known 
each other, so interestedly they talked on one 
subject and another. 

At last they heard the deep notes of the 
organ recessional and hastened to the entrance 
to take their places with the waiting hundreds. 
The royal coach, with its eight white horses 
and powdered and satin-liveried coachmen and 
footmen, was drawn up before the entrance 
and there were numberless post-riders behind 
and before on their prancing horses. Slowly, 
very slowly, the majestic procession filed out 


io8 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


and the Bishop of Chester and the dignitaries 
of the city escorted the honored guest in his 
satin robes and emblems of power to his wait- 
ing coach. Then after he and his attendants 
had entered, the door was closed, there was 
a flourish, and he was gone from sight and 
the people wended their humble way home- 
ward, gladdened and perhaps saddened by the 
pomp of royalty. 

As the newly made friend bade good-bye to 
the three ” she said, ‘‘ Don't forget you have 
promised to take tea with us this afternoon 
at five o'clock. I^ will send our carriage to 
your hotel at four if you will kindly tell me 
where you are stopping." 

When Miss Hooper told her it was the Hop 
Pole, they parted, she to join her father and 
brothers in the choir-loft, and the others to 
walk leisurely to their hotel. 

Wasn't she lovely?" said Jean. ‘‘Just 
my idea of a real English girl. How kind 
to invite us to her home. Think of taking tea 
in a real home instead of in a lonely old hotel." 

“ Do you remember I told you last night 
that something pleasant would happen to us 


SEEING CHESTER 109 

to-day? I am very thankful we are to have 
such hospitality extended to us for I am sure 
if the rest of the family are as charming as 
the eldest daughter it will be a pleasure to 
meet them.” 

A little after four o’clock a comfortable 
little carriage drew up before the Hop Pole 
and a servant, knocking on Miss Hooper’s 
door announced that the carriage was for them. 
The two girls in their class-day gowns and 
hats and Miss Hooper in a white serge tailored 
suit and closely fitting black toque with white 
wings made a charming appearance as they 
stepped into the carriage. And as the old 
driver gave them a passing glance he mut- 
tered to himself, ‘‘ Americans all right, and 
no mistake about that.” 

After they had ridden for about a mile the 
carriage stopped before a dainty little stone 
and plaster house, fairly covered with ivy and 
half buried in its shrubs and gardens. Over 
the evenly cut box hedge could be seen a merry 
group in their wicker chairs gathered round 
a tea-table. Their acquaintance of the morn- 
ing hastened toward “ the three ” and made 


no JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


them feel at home at once by putting her arm 
through Jean’s and Elizabeth’s, and leading 
them up to be introduced to her family. The 
father and mother, very young in appearance 
to be the parents of the four girls and the two 
boys, were charming, and welcomed them into 
their midst as they might have done life-long 
friends. 

After tea was over they walked in the gar- 
dens and the girls saw for the first time what 
English rose-trees are like with their great 
pink, red and yellow roses. About six o’clock 
the father excused himself in order that he 
might be in time for the half-past six evening 
service at the Cathedral and inviting the others 
to accompany him he was delighted when 
Elizabeth and his eldest daughter, Louise, and 
the two boys who were in the choir, started 
off with him. 

The evening was so deliciously cool and in- 
viting that the others lingered in the garden 
to enjoy its beauty and fragrance. The time 
passed so quickly that before they realized 
it more than two hours had passed and the ' 


SEEING CHESTER 


III 


choir-master and the young people returned 
and supper was announced. In spite of their 
protestations the three ” were prevailed upon 
to stay to the simple evening meal, prepared 
and served by the two oldest girls, who seemed 
to take real pleasure in waiting upon the 
others in order, as the mother afterward ex- 
plained, that their one serving-maid might 
spend the rest of the day after dinner at her 
mother’s home. 

Later there was music in the tiny music 
room and the sweet, happy voices blended to- 
gether in one song after another until at last, 
the wonderful twilight ending, they were 
obliged to light the candles. Then Miss Hooper 
insisted that they must return, and the old 
family carriage drew up to the door to drive 
them back to the hotel. ‘‘ The three ” said 
good-night and thanked the family for the 
happy time they had had in their home and 
expressed the wish that sometime they might 
meet again. 

On the ride back to the Hop Pole ‘‘the 
three” were strangely silent, but once Jean 


1 12 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


exclaimed, What a beautiful home and family 
that was! It was almost as good as yours, 
Elizabeth.’’ 

“ And almost as good as yours, I imagine,” 
said Miss Hooper. 

No, Miss Hooper, we haven’t a mother 
in ours, and that makes all the difference in 
the world.” 


CHAPTER VI 


IN shakspere’s land 

said Elizabeth, as the swift- 
1 1 moving morning train bore ‘‘the 

three ” from Chester to Stratford- 
on-Avon, “ did you ever see such a mass of 
color as there is in these beautiful fields? 
What is it? ’’ 

“ It is the scarlet poppy which is wild and 
grows very abundantly in England,” answered 
Miss Hooper. “ It certainly is very beautiful 
against the green background and the waving 
grain.” 

“ Yes, iPs like good old California,” said 
Jean. “ Only more of our poppies are yellow 
than red. We have miles and miles of them, 
too. Wait until you two visit us there next 
summer and I’ll show you sights to make you 
open your eyes right in your own country.” 

“ I know it’s true, Jean,” said Miss Hooper, 

113 


1 14 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

‘‘ and I mean to see more of the United States 
before I take another trip abroad. Now per- 
haps we had better get our things together, for 
we shall arrive in about ten minutes. Isn’t it 
a relief to think we have only our suit-cases 
to bother with ? I’m so glad I sent the trunks 
ahead to London. We’ll drive to the hotel at 
once and after luncheon spend the rest of the 
day as you please.” 

What hotel do we stop at? ” asked Eliza- 
beth. 

At the Red Horse Inn,” said Miss Hooper. 
'' It’s a very old inn and famous because our 
own Washington Irving stayed there on his 
visit to the town when he wrote his delightful 
paper on Stratford-on-Avon for the ‘ Sketch 
Book.’ We must try to read it aloud and a 
little from Shakspere while we are here for 
the association’s sake.” 

Just then the train stopped. They alighted 
and were soon in a waiting cab and on their 
way to the inn. When they arrived they were 
cordially welcomed and shown to their room 
on second floor which looked down into the 
great courtyard, which was the first they had 


IN SHAKSPERE’S LAND 115 

seen. Their room was furnished with charm- 
ing old-fashioned furniture; the walls were 
covered with faded paper which still showed 
picturesque shepherds and shepherdesses dan- 
cing on the village green; the only visible 
means of lighting the room were the candles 
in the tall dull brass candlesticks on the ma- 
hogany dresser, and there were two heavy 
cords suspended from the ceiling, with which 
to summon delinquent servants. 

Jean could not resist the temptation to give 
one of them a vigorous pull and at the ar- 
rival of the neatly dressed waiting maid she 
asked for some water in spite of the fact that 
there already were three pitchers full awaiting 
them on the washstand. Then after the maid 
departed she exclaimed, I wish it were night 
so I could light the candles. I never went 
to bed by candle-light before.’' 

After they had changed their suits they went 
down into the large dining-room for luncheon 
and when that was fini^ed they sought the 
Washington Irving room. Here they found 
the chair in which he sat when he wrote 
and the poker with which he is said to have 


ii6 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


poked the fire for inspiration, and many other 
reminders of his eventful visit there. “ Well,” 
said Elizabeth, it seems good here in an 
English town to find that an American author 
is as much appreciated as this. I had expected 
we should hear or see nothing but associations 
of Shakspere.” 

While that is true to a large extent, Eliza- 
beth,” said Miss Hooper, ‘‘there are a few 
other famous people connected with the town. 
Besides Irving there is Marie Corelli, the 
novelist, who has a beautiful home here and 
who has done a great deal in creating interest 
in the birthplace and life of John Harvard, 
the founder of Harvard University. One of 
the oldest houses standing, which bears the 
date 1596 was the home of John Harvard's 
mother. Considering Jean's former interest 
in Harvard football games, perhaps she will 
enjoy seeing that as much as anything else.” 

“ Indeed I should. Miss Hooper ; and is there 
anything connected with Yale or Princeton? 
You know I'm not at all partial in my fond- 
ness for American universities.” 

“ Well, as far as I know, there is nothing. 


IN SHAKSPERE’S LAND 117 

Jean. Now if you’re ready we’ll start for 
Shakspere’s House.” 

On their way down Henley Street Jean 
spied a sign in a little shop window to the 
effect that ice-cream was for sale. ‘‘ Oh, 
Miss Hooper, please come over with me and 
have some ice-cream. I’ve been wanting some 
ever since we landed and this is the first I’ve 
seen. Doesn’t it seem strange that the drug- 
stores over here have no soda fountains and 
ice-cream tables ? ” 

** Perhaps they haven’t forgotten the real 
purpose of a drug-store, as most American 
druggists seem to have done,” answered Miss 
Hooper. 

When they entered the little shop and Jean 
asked the clerk what kinds of ice-cream she 
had for sale, she received the answer, Why 
— er — ice-cream, that’s all.” 

Well,” said Jean with a smile, we’ll have 
three.” 

There was no place to sit down so they 
stood up by the counter to await the maid’s 
return. When at last she appeared she bore 
upon a small platter three custard cups and 


ii8 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

set them down on the counter before ‘‘ the 
three/' Receiving her money she disappeared, 
and Jean dipped her spoon into the ice-cream 
and took one mouthful. ‘‘Fooled again!" 
she exclaimed, “ this is only a corn-starchy 
custard and warm at that. Not very refresh- 
ing for a hot day, is it? Don’t you suppose 
we can ever get any real ice-cream? Next 
time I come over I think I’ll bring a small 
freezer in my trunk to give these behind-the- 
times English a lesson in ice-cream making. 
I don’t want any more of this, do you? ’’ 

“ No,’’ said Miss Hooper, “ it isn’t exactly 
my idea of refreshing ice-cream, but perhaps 
we shall find some later. Shakspere’s house 
is just below here on the other side of the 
street so let us visit that first.’’ 

After paying six pence apiece they were ad- 
mitted to the old house where Shakspere was 
born, which to-day is very similar to what it 
was in his day. The small chamber on the 
first floor facing the street was where the 
poet was born. On the windows and walls 
thousands of visitors have scratched their 
names and although later these were covered 


IN SHAKSPERFS LAND 119 


with whitewash one can still discover the sig- 
natures of Thackeray, Kean, and Browning, 
and on the window those of Walter Scott and 
Carlyle. Back of this room is the kitchen and 
the Shakspere Museum; and upstairs is the 
Library and the room containing the Stratford 
Portrait of Shakspere. What pleased Jean 
most was the huge fireplace in the kitchen with 
its roughly carved settles inside where as a boy 
Shakspere may have spent many a long winter 
evening gazing up at the starlit heavens. In 
the rear of the house is a garden containing 
all the trees and flowers mentioned in the 
plays. 

Leaving the venerable birthplace, they went 
slowly out into the town again and saw where 
Shakspere’s daughter Judith lived, the old 
Harvard House, the town hall, and New Place, 
the splendid house which Shakspere built after 
he returned from London and where he died, 
the Guild Hall where he may have seen the 
performances of the strolling players and had 
his first dreams of becoming an actor or play- 
write himself, and the Grammar School where 
he learned ‘‘ little Latin and less Greek.^’ As 


120 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


they were wandering back to the hotel Eliza- 
beth exclaimed, See that beautiful house? 
Who do you suppose lives there ? I never saw 
such flowers growing on the very front of the 
house before ! ” 

Looking across the street they saw a large 
square stone house with innumerable windows 
on its fagade. At each window was a large 
window-box filled to overflowing with pink 
petunias, blue ageratum and white geraniums 
with long trailing green vines below. So 
luxuriant was the growth and so brilliant the 
coloring that as one looked at it all one’s first 
impression was that the fagade was entirely 
covered with flowers and vines. 

‘‘It surely belongs to some one who loves 
flowers,” said Jean, “ I’m going to ask this 
young lady coming toward us who lives there. 
I’m anxious to know.” 

In her sweetest tones Jean asked the 
stranger who lived in the house and received a 
curt reply that it belonged to Marie Corelli 
and then the stranger passed on as though of- 
fended at being asked the simple question. 

After they had gone a few steps Jean turned 


IN SHAKSPERE’S LAND 121 


round to take a last look at the house and to 
her amazement she saw the stranger enter the 
little gate at the side of the house and disap- 
pear in the back entrance. ‘‘ Oh well/' she 
said, ‘‘ probably she’s one of Marie Corelli’s 
servants who resents being asked anything 
about her mistress. I was very anxious to sec 
the novelist herself, but if that’s the spirit of 
her household I guess it’s just as well I didn’t 
see any more of them for I might be tempted 
to show them too much of my American in- 
dependence.” 

“ But you mustn’t draw conclusions too 
hastily, Jean,” said Miss Hooper. Prob- 
ably these people get very tired of the contin- 
ual questions they have to answer. Just 
think of the number of visitors who come here 
every year. I was reading only this morn- 
ing that about thirty thousand people pay ad- 
mission to Shakspere’s house annually. You 
couldn’t blame the natives if they sometimes 
refused to answer questions, could you? ” 

“ What is that tower we can just see from 
here ? ” asked Elizabeth. 

I think that must be the tower of Holy 


122 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


Trinity, the church where Shakspere is bur- 
ied. We shall have just about time enough 
to go there before dinner if you like/’ said 
Miss Hooper. 

So they left the busy center of the town 
and followed the road called Old Town until 
they came to the church charmingly situated 
amid dark spreading trees on the very bank 
of the Avon. As they walked up the ivy 
bordered stone walk they saw the little old 
sexton just locking the great doors, and clos- 
ing the iron gates. “ Oh, we’re just too 
late,” said Miss Hooper ; I had no idea it 
would be closed so early. But we can follow 
one of these lovely winding paths and watch 
the river flowing past.” 

Why can’t we ask the sexton for permis- 
sion to go inside? Perhaps if we tell him 
how far we’ve come, he’ll let us in for a little 
way, at least. He’s coming right toward us 
now. I’m going to ask him, he can’t any 
more than say no.” 

But the sexton kindly informed them that 
it was against the rules of the church to open 
the doors after five o’clock except for a spe- 


IN SHAKSPERE’S LAND 


123 


cial service. However, there was to be a 
service early the next morning which they 
could attend, and after that they could spend 
as much time inside as they wished. 

Thanking him they walked down one of 
the paths and found themselves close by the 
water ^s side. As they caught sight of the 
quiet water Jean exclaimed, “ Oh, Miss, 
Hooper, I have a plan. Couldn't we hire a 
boat somewhere and get something to eat at 
one of the stores and spend the evening on 
the river? I don’t care anything about din- 
ner at the hotel but I think it will be splendid 
in a boat down on that water. I’m disap- 
pointed a bit in the river, though. Isn’t it 
narrow? Why, it looks more like a brook 
than a river. I don’t believe it’s very deep, 
either, so we couldn’t drown if we did upset 
the boat. I can see a lot of boats down 
through the trees and I think there must be a 
landing there and a boat-house. There’s 
something looks like one. May we go down 
and try. Miss Hooper? Oh, please say yes. 
Just think how romantic it will be to spend 
the evening rowing up and down the Avon. 


124 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 

I don’t believe many tourists ever think of 
doing it, but I’d far rather than visit the 
Memorial Building as you planned.” 

With a smile Miss Hooper assented to 
Jean’s plan and after walking for a long time 
they finally did come to a boat-house where 
they found they could hire a boat. Just 
as they were about to step into it Elizabeth ex- 
claimed, Why, Jean, we haven’t any lunch. 
I think half the fun will be eating on the 
water.” 

To be sure,” answered Jean, “ we’ll go up 
to a store if this man will tell us the quickest 
way to get there, and buy what we see that 
pleases us most. Then we’ll come back as 
quickly as possible and start off again.” 

On their way up to a baker’s shop which 
the boatman had recommended to them they 
passed a grocery store and in one of the win- 
dows were some great red strawberries which 
caught Jean’s eye. 

Oh, see those delicious strawberries. 
Just the thing. I thought they were all gone 
by. They are at home I know. The season 
must be much later here. How funny for 


IN SHAKSPERE’S LAND 


125 


them to be in such big piles in the window in- 
stead of in boxes. Do you notice how much 
of the stem is left on? Well, Pm going in 
and buy some.” 

When the clerk came up to wait upon ‘‘ the 
three ” Jean said, Pd like two boxes of straw- 
berries.” 

Why-er-Miss,” said the clerk, ‘‘ we don’t 
sell them by the box.” 

‘‘ Very well,” answered Jean, “ Pll take two 
quarts then.” 

‘‘ But — er — we don’t sell them by the 
quart; they’re sixpence a pound.” 

Oh, is that it,” said Jean, laughing, well, 
Pll take two pounds. And have you any 
cream ? ” 

When the clerk brought a little earthen- 
ware jug holding half a pint of cream, Jean 
was delighted and exclaimed, Oh, what a 
cunning little jug. Pll have three. They 
certainly are an improvement over our ugly 
cream bottles. Pm going to take mine home 
with me. Now we must have a little sugar 
and with the cakes we can buy at the baker’s 
we’ll have enough for a feast.” 


126 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


When the three stepped into the great flat- 
bottomed boat at the little landing they de- 
posited their hats and bundles in one end and 
took their seats. Then Jean seized the oars, 
for she had agreed to do the rowing; but in 
a moment she said, “ You’ll have to help me, 
Beth. These are the heaviest oars I ever 
lifted in my life. I’ll take one and row with 
both hands on this side, and you can sit beside 
me and take the other and row that side. 
Why, what is that man doing in that boat? 
I don’t call that rowing.” 

No, Miss,” answered the boatman, ‘‘ that’s 
punting, but I don’t advise you to try it if 
you don’t know how. You’ll get along much 
better the way you are. I don’t believe you’ll 
have any trouble if you’re careful when boats 
pass you. The river’s a wee bit narrow in 
places, so look out.” 

With this parting advice he pushed them 
off and they started slowly upstream. The 
two girls soon found the rowing easier and 
they moved smoothly along. There were 
many boats and punts all along the river pro- 
pelled by young men in their bright striped 


IN SHAKSPERE’S LAND 127 


flannels and filled with gay picnicking parties. 
The girls did not stop rowing until they were 
nearly opposite the church but here they found 
a shady spot under a weeping willow and as 
no other of the picnic parties was near enough 
to interrupt their evening meal they decided 
to moor the boat and eat. In true rustic 
fashion they held the fresh berries in their 
fingers by the stems, which had evidently been 
left there for that purpose, and dipped them 
in the rich cream and the sugar and ate one 
after another with the little tea cakes they 
had bought until every one was gone. Then 
to break the silence which seemed to have 
fallen upon them Jean exclaimed, I wonder 
what old Shakspere would say if he could 
rise from his grave there in the church and 
look out of the window and see three Amer- 
icans who have come to pay him their re- 
spects, eating strawberries and cakes on the 
river instead of paying sixpence admission at 
some of his numberless shrines. I should tell 
him that never in all my life have I enjoyed a 
meal more than I have this one under his very 
burial ground. Eve often wondered what 


128 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


some of these men would say if they could 
see how wonderfully famous they’ve become 
since their death, and what men will do for 
them now when they would hardly have given 
them a loaf of bread when they were alive.” 

Very true, Jean, but it’s one of the many 
things we can’t understand. Suppose we turn 
the boat now and float downstream and we’ll 
get some of that beautiful sunset. It’s a little 
dark up here under the trees.” 

All right, Miss Hooper, but I don’t believe 
you like it so near to a burying-ground. It 
is a little gloomy, I admit. Isn’t that water 
black just beyond that flat rock? I shouldn’t 
like to fall in there.” 

‘‘Why, just look!” exclaimed Elizabeth. 
“ What is this coming up the river ? I never 
saw anything like it in all my life.” 

The other two looked away from the black 
water beyond the church and downstream 
saw a large covered bark guided by a lithe, 
swarthy-complexioned youth in red and white 
striped flannels and a brilliant red cap on his 
head. As they drew nearer. Miss Hooper 
said, “ It looks more like a Venetian gondola 


IN SHAKSPERE’S LAND 129 


than anything I have ever seen, but the velvety 
canopy suggests an Oriental boat. I can im- 
agine Cleopatra sailing up and down the Nile 
in some such boat. But of all places in the 
world the Avon is the last I should expect to 
see anything like that. As it passes perhaps 
we can catch a glimpse of its occupant if there 
be one.’’ 

But as it passed them, much to their dis- 
appointment they saw that the heavy velvet 
curtains were closely drawn and the occupant, 
if there were one, hidden from the gaze of 
curious sight-seers. 

Speaking of Shakspere,” said Elizabeth, 
‘'if he should come to life as you suggested 
just now and gaze out of yonder window he 
might think he were in Venice instead of in 
quiet Stratford. But what do you suppose 
that boat was doing here? I’m very curious 
and I hope if we ask the boatman at the land- 
ing he can tell us about it.” 

“ Good idea, Beth ; you can ask him. But 
I’m not ready to land just yet. I want to 
stay out here as long as we can see. We’ll go 
down near the boat-house and then it will be 


130 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


easy to land and perhaps before long that 
gondola will come back and we may see some 
Oriental princess alight.” 

Although they waited a long time in the 
falling twilight the gondola did not return so 
as they stepped out of their boat at the land- 
ing Elizabeth asked the boatman for an ex- 
planation. ‘‘ Oh,” he laughed, so you saw 
our gondola, did you? Well, it belongs to 
Marie Corelli. She had it brought here from 
Venice and the gondolier as well. Every 
pleasant afternoon about five o’clock she goes 
out for an airing, but you probably just missed 
her to-day as she went downstream and you 
went up. She has a boat-house a little above 
the church and her gondolier was probably 
taking his craft up there as he passed you. 
Too bad you missed seeing her. Perhaps if 
you try it again to-morrow afternoon you may 
have better luck.” 

I’m afraid we haven’t time, but we thank 
you for the information,” said Elizabeth. 

And then ‘‘ the three ” hurried back to the 
hotel, but before going to their rooms they 
sought the inn-keeper’s wife to give her an 


IN SHAKSPERE’S LAND 


131 

explanation of their non-appearance at dinner, 
and to ask that they might have coffee and 
rolls sent to their room early in the morning 
as they wished to attend seven o’clock service 
at the church. As they started down the long 
hallway they met a maid who gave them 
lighted candles to carry to their rooms and 
then bowing and saying only “ Good-night,” 
she disappeared. 

Well,” said Elizabeth, as they were ready 
to get into bed, I’m very sleepy, but I almost 
hate to go to bed for fear I’ll dream of bury- 
ing-grounds and walking candle-sticks and 
Venetian gondolas all mixed up together. If 
you hear me scream in the night you’ll know 
it’s only an attack of nightmare, so just shake 
me, please, until I wake up,” and she blew 
out her candle and was soon sleeping peace- 
fully. 

Several firm but quiet knocks awoke them 
in the morning and upon opening the door 
they found a maid with rolls and coffee and 
the startling information that it was half after 
five o’clock. It was so light they could 
scarcely believe it was so early but when 


132 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


•they were told that light comes before three 
in the morning they were more reconciled. As 
they left the Inn they heard not a sound nor 
saw a single person and out on the streets it 
was the same. It seemed as though the whole 
town were asleep and they the only ones 
abroad. 

Do you suppose the maid was mistaken 
and called us an hour earlier than was neces- 
sary ? ” asked Elizabeth. 

‘‘ No,’^ replied Miss Hooper, ‘‘ I’m sure my 
watch is right and it said half after six when 
we started. Probably people take their time 
in rising, for there’s no business here except 
sight-seeing, and one generally doesn’t care to 
do that early in the morning.” 

When they arrived at the church it was the 
same as on the streets, they saw no one but 
' finding the doors wide open they entered. 
Again no one in sight, but hearing a voice 
reading the morning service they walked 
slowly down the main aisle until they reached 
the Lady Chapel, or the Clopton Chapel as it 
is sometimes called, at the right, and saw in 
the pulpit the rector reading from his prayer- 


IN SHAKSPERE’S LAND 133 


book. Before him were the communicants, 
two in number, a pale-faced woman in widow’s 
weeds, and an old bent man sitting close up 
against the wall. The three ” slipped quietly 
into the last row of seats and listened to the 
service. It was very short and soon they were 
at liberty to wander over the church. 

The chief thing of interest was Shakspere’s 
grave on the north side of the chancel covered 
with a slab bearing the inscription. 

‘^Good frend for Jesus sake forbeare. 

To digg the dust encloased heare; 

Blese be ye man yt spares these stones 
And curst be he yt moves my bones.” 

Close by were the tombs of his wife and one 
of his daughters and some of her family and 
a few noted Englishmen. They looked with 
interest at the font in which Shakspere was 
christened, and at the register containing the 
entries of his baptism and funeral. As they 
were about to leave the church Elizabeth ex- 
claimed, I don’t see how any one can doubt 
that William Shakspere lived and wrote all the 
plays credited to him. Why this church alone 
is evidence to me even if I never saw another 


134 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


thing. There’s a certain convincing some- 
thing here that makes one positive that it is 
the final resting-place of the greatest poet 
England ever had. How can any one, finding 
him here so honored by the church doubt his 
reality and greatness? And think of all the 
generations that have reverenced him! If 
there had been any deception or real doubt 
about his greatness it surely would have been 
discovered long ago.” The others agreed and 
fell to discussing his genius on their way back 
to the hotel. 

After lunch Miss Hooper proposed a visit 
to Anne Hathaway’s cottage and asked the 
girls whether they preferred being driven there 
or walking through the lanes to Shottery, by 
the very way Shakspere had gone so many 
times to court Anne Hathaway. The latter 
plan pleased them most, and soon they were 
walking across the flowery fields separated 
from one another by the hawthorn and wild- 
rose hedges. They stopped now and then at 
the narrow turnstiles and romantically won- 
dered how many times the lovers had lingered 
there for reluctant good-byes. 


IN SHAKSPERE’S LAND 135 

After a mile or so they reached the little 
village of Shottery with its thatch-roofed cot- 
tages and close growing gardens. Without 
asking the way they wandered on anxious to 
discover for themselves by following the few 
signboards and their own intuition. At last 
just ahead of them, a little way down the 
street they caught sight of a dear little thatch- 
roofed cottage which they decided must be the 
one. Approaching it they soon discovered 
their mistake for although it was a fit dwelling 
place for Anne Hathaway or any of her 
Shottery friends it did not resemble the mental 
pictures they had already made of her home. 
But- the side and front of the house were com- 
pletely covered with climbing pink and red 
roses in full bloom. 

Oh,” cried Elizabeth, “ I must have a pic- 
ture of these wonderful roses climbing up over 
the house. I wonder if I dare go up in the 
yard to take one. Why, there’s an old lady 
out in the garden. Fm going to ask her if I 
may take the picture from there.” 

The old lady was very willing that the girls 
should take as many pictures as they wished. 


136 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


and invited them out into the garden to help 
themselves to the last of her strawberries. 
Then she filled their arms with roses from 
her rose garden in the rear of the house and 
insisted that they just step into her house a 
minute for she had something to show them 
every bit as good as anything they would find 
in Anne Hathaway’s cottage. 

On entering the house they found an in- 
terior with indications of age as great as any 
they had yet seen and quite as interesting. 
The old lady led them from one thing to an- 
other but with great glee kept her real treasure 
until the last. Stepping down into a room a 
little lower than the one they had entered she 
showed them walls covered with choicest tapes- 
tries and rugs made by some blind girls who 
lived with her and were taught to do this work. 
Just then they were not there having been 
sent to the seashore for a few weeks by a 
wealthy woman of the town, but she expected 
them back in August and she was planning a 
wonderful piece of tapestry which had just 
been ordered by the Queen. 

Think of it! ” she said. My little blind 


IN SHAKSPERE’S LAND 137 


girls are to do a piece of work which will 
hang in Buckingham Palace. How pleased 
they will be to hear about it. I haven’t writ- 
ten them, for I want to keep it as a surprise if 
I can. I wish I might earn more to help them. 
Sometimes it’s pretty hard pulling for us. I 
would like to rent this cottage to some Amer- 
icans for next summer and then we could all 
go away together somewhere. Do you know 
of any one who would like it? ” 

‘‘ Why yes,” said Jean, perhaps we’ll take 
it.” Then looking at the startled faces of the 
other two she added, Oh, we can’t take it 
next summer for we’re going to spend that in 
California, but maybe the year after we can. 
Anyway, we’ll keep it in mind and tell our 
friends about it. I should dearly love to 
spend the afternoon with you but if we do we 
won’t see much of Anne Hathaway’s cottage 
and that’s what we really came to see, you 
know.” 

“ It’s just round the next corner, dears,” 
said the little old lady, ‘‘ but before you go I 
want to give you some of these post-cards 
with a picture of one of my blind girls weav- 


138 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

ing. Our address is on it so you can’t forget 
us. Maybe some time you’ll send us just a 
line from America.” 

‘‘ Indeed we will,” called back the three ” 
as they stepped out into the narrow street 
again. 

They found Anne Hathaway’s cottage all 
that they expected, and after they had explored 
the quaint little rooms they went out in the 
garden to take some more picures. “ Wait 
one minute, Elizabeth,” said Jean as they were 
on the point of snapping the house, ‘‘ I want 
to ask that young caretaker if I may borrow 
her knitting and if she’s willing I’m going to 
take your picture up on the settle by the door. 
Won’t that be original to have a picture of 
you knitting as Anne used to do as she sat 
waiting for William to come in sight across 
the fields? Oh, am I right. Miss Hooper, in 
imagining Anne knitting? I don’t remember 
whether proper young ladies of Shakspere’s 
time knitted or not.” 

Yes, so far as I know they did, and I’m 
sure the young lady will be willing to help 
you if you ask her tactfully.” 


IN SHAKSPERE’S LAND 


139 


Jean must have used plenty of tact for she 
soon returned with the knitting which she 
placed in Elizabeth’s hands preparatory to 
taking her picture. The young caretaker lin- 
gered in the shadow of the doorway as if 
wondering what American young ladies would 
want to do next, and without saying anything 
to her Jean got her in the picture, too. After 
the pictures were taken and the knitting re- 
turned with a generous reward for its loan 
the three ” started for their homeward walk. 
They intended to go by the old tapestry- 
maker’s cottage to wave her a last good-bye, 
but in some way they turned the wrong corner 
and found themselves in another street. Wan- 
dering down this way they came to a swing- 
ing sign which held them fascinated by its 
attractive name, Silver Cockle Tea-Room.” 

‘'Oh, let’s have some tea; if it’s as nice as 
the name of the tea-room it will be worth 
stopping for,” said Jean. 

They turned the little stile under the swing- 
ing sign and found themselves on a narrow 
path which led down through tall waving 
grass thick with poppies and larkspur. Fi- 


140 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


nally, away down the path, almost out of 
sight of the road they found two little tables 
with low chairs beside them. These looked 
so inviting there among the nodding grass 
and flowers that they sat down and waited. 
No one came to serve them and finally Jean 
noticed a little silver bell on the farther table 
and she tinkled it several times. Then a girl 
of about sixteen years of age came toward 
them bringing three cups of tea and cream and 
sugar. 

“If you care for cakes, you may come to 
the cake-room and choose them for your- 
selves,'’ she said, after she had deposited the 
delicate china cups on the table. 

Following her, “ the three " found them- 
selves in a little summer-house filled with sil- 
ver cockle shells. Several counters were laden 
with cakes of many varieties but the majority 
were in the shape of shells. Leaving the 
guests to choose what they wished the young 
girl disappeared in the house near by and only 
appeared again as the three were about to 
depart. When they asked her how much their 
bill would be she said it depended upon how 


IN SHAKSPERE’S LAND 141 


many cakes they had eaten. They were two- 
pence apiece and the tea the same and she 
would let them make out the bill. Laughing 
at her way of doing business Jean reckoned 
what they owed her and added enough more 
to make it seem worth while. This pleased 
the young girl so much that she could not 
keep back the tears as she thanked Jean and 
added in a burst of confidence that her older 
sister and herself were trying to earn enough 
money by their tea-room during the summer to 
send their mother to a hospital for an opera- 
tion which the doctor said she very much 
needed. The father was dead and the two 
girls were all that were left of a large family 
to help the mother. She said they had done 
very well so far, but few people knew of their 
tea-room because it was a little out of the way. 

‘‘ Oh,'' said Jean, “ we'll send every one we 
meet here to have some of your delicious tea 
and cakes." 

After the three " had reached the street 
Jean left the other two a moment and ran 
back to where the young English girl was still 
standing. Quickly she put into her trembling 


142 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


hands her silver change bag which she told 
her was to be hers to use as she pleased. It 
was only that morning that Jean had cashed 
one of her largest express money orders and 
she knew the contents of the bag would help 
a good deal toward a certain operation in the 
fall. 

When she joined Elizabeth and Miss Hooper 
they asked her why she had gone back and 
with tears in her eyes she said, Oh, I pitied 
that little girl so much I wanted to say good- 
bye again.'’ 

And although one of the two noticed that 
Jean's silver bag was gone she said nothing 
about it but smiled inwardly at the girl's im- 
pulsive generosity. 


CHAPTER VII 


UP TO LONDON 

TELL! I call this some style,” 
said Jean the next morning as 
the three ” stood at the hotel 
door and watched the equipage, which they 
had hired for the day to drive them to Leam- 
ington where they were to take the train for 
Oxford, come out of the courtyard and draw 
up before them. The old Victoria looked as 
though it might have carried Washington 
Irving in his day, or even Shakspere for that 
matter, and the horses, too, bore signs of age, 
but the sprightly coachman on his high box- 
seat in his rusty black suit and silk hat was 
the very embodiment of youth, as with a 
flourish of his whip and a sweeping circle of 
his tall hat he motioned to the three ” to seat 
themselves that he might be off. 

As they started down the steps with But- 
143 


144 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


tons behind them carrying a heavy suit-case 
in each hand Jean whispered to Miss Hooper, 
That old carriage may be perfectly safe, 
but it doesn’t look as though it could carry 
our suit-cases, to say nothing of three husky 
passengers.” 

But Miss Hooper reassuringly replied, ‘‘ I 
admit, Jean, it does look a little faded and 
worn but I am quite sure it is all right or 
Mrs. Whitelaw would never have recom- 
mended it to us as one of her best.” 

“ Well, all I’ve got to say is, if that’s her 
best, I shouldn’t care to hire one of her 
worst.” 

The cases were put up beside the driver. 
Miss Hooper and Elizabeth took their places 
and Jean sat opposite them; then with a crack 
of the whip and a creak of the springs they 
were off and away on the dusty road which 
followed the winding Avon through an ever- 
picturesque country. Their first stop was to 
be made at Kenilworth, after about an eight- 
mile ride, and the remaining two miles to 
Leamington contained many interesting places 
which they intended to visit. The ride was 


UP TO LONDON 


145 


not at all monotonous for their very loquacious 
driver persisted in pointing out one thing after 
another, which had something of interest con- 
nected with it, 'until their poor necks ached 
so from turning first to the left and then to 
the right, and their throats grew so tired an- 
swering, Oh, indeed, is it possible ? How 
interesting! Thank you so much for telling 
us,’’ that finally Jean leaned over to the others 
and whispered loud enough for him to hear, 
‘‘Oh, can’t you stop him for five minutes? 
He’s just spoiling the whole ride. I’ll get out 
and walk if he doesn’t stop soon.” 

But Jean was obliged to get out and walk 
much quicker than she had anticipated, for 
just then, as if in answer to her entreaty. Fate 
in the guise of a newspaper, rolled across the 
street, frightened the hitherto trusty steeds, 
so that they gave one terrific plunge forward 
and shaking themselves free speedily departed 
with the flying traces, leaving the bewildered 
driver lying in the middle of the road, having 
dropped the reins only when threatened with 
complete destruction. For a moment after 
the shock the carriage wavered and tottered 


146 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


as though not certain what to do, but to the 
relief and joy of the frightened occupants it 
gave one final shudder and, righting itself, 
stood as though nothing had happened. 

As quickly as possible '' the three ’’ hastened 
to the prostrate coachman who lay so still in 
the road that they wondered whether he were 
dead or alive. Jean reached him first and 
with faltering voice asked him if he were 
hurt. Rubbing first his tousled head and then 
his shoulder he answered, “ No, Miss, and I 
was just about to show you the tower of — ” 
Never mind showing us any tower, sir, it 
would be much more to the point if you showed 
us your runaway horses. How do you think 
we shall ever reach Leamington to-day ? ’’ 

The tone of Jean’s voice and the expression 
on her face brought the man back to his senses 
and he hastily arose and gazed down the road 
at his rapidly disappearing treasures. Oh,” 
he said, ‘‘ it’ll not take me long to catch them. 
You sit here in the shade of these trees and 
I’ll be back for you before you can say * Jack 
Robinson.’ There’s plenty of interesting 
sights to take up your time, now there’s — ” 


UP TO LONDON 


147 


Don’t tell us about another single thing 
to-day. Please hurry after your horses and 
we’ll wait here,” interrupted Jean again. 

Shaking the dust from his clothes he started 
on a run down the road leaving the three ” 
standing disconsolate opposite the horseless 
carriage. They might have said Jack Rob- 
inson ” hundreds of times before he put in 
his appearance again. As it was, they sat in 
the shade of the trees until they became so 
cramped that they had to walk up and down 
the road for exercise. Gay tally-hos crowded 
with tourists passed them in both directions 
and waved good-naturedly as they saw their 
dilemma or stopped to offer them a lift. By 
noon it grew very hot; there seemed to be 
no breeze anywhere and they were very hungry 
and thirsty and strangely silent. But finally, 
as if she could stand it no longer, Jean burst 
out, “ Oh, why doesn’t that wretched man 
come back? I’d walk the whole distance to 
Leamington if it wasn’t for those heavy suit- 
cases. If he doesn’t show up soon we’ll have 
to make some kind of a move or we’ll be here 
for the rest of the summer. I think we’d 


148 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


better accept the very next invitation we have 
to ride, no matter which way they’re going. 
Anything will be better than this wearisome 
waiting.” 

Just then as she looked down the road by 
which they had come, she caught sight of 
an automobile rapidly approaching them. 

We’re saved, we’re saved,” she cried. 
‘‘ Let’s stand on either side of our royal coach 
and barricade the road and hold up yonder 
deliverer and beat him within an inch of his 
life unless he promises to convey us to our 
destination.” 

But before any definite plans could be made 
for the hold-up the big red touring-car slowly 
drew up before them and an elderly gentle- 
man in the back seat politely raised his hat 
and addressing Miss Hooper asked if he could 
be of any assistance. When she had ex- 
plained the situation he said that he and his 
wife, who sat beside him, and his nephew, 
who was his chauffeur, had been spending a 
few days with relatives in Stratford-on-Avon 
and were returning to their home in Oxford. 
They would be very glad to carry them and 



An elderly gentleman politely raised his hat. — Page 148 




UP TO LONDON 


149 

their suit-cases with them and show them the 
places of interest along the way, with which 
they were very familiar. 

No one could possibly have resisted the 
charming hospitality of the old English gen- 
tleman, and Miss Hooper readily accepted the 
invitation and consented to the young man's 
placing the suit-cases on the rack at the rear 
of the car after assisting her and the two 
girls into the seats near his uncle and aunt. 
Fortunately Mrs. Faringdon, as the elderly 
lady was called, had a box of sandwiches and 
fruit which her sister had given her just as 
they were starting away and these she offered 
to the half- famished girls. With hunger ap- 
peased and their faces cooled by the fresh 
breezes, their usual good-nature returned and 
soon they were laughing gaily over the acci- 
dent of the morning although they kept a 
sharp lookout for the missing coachman. But 
not a sign of him did they see and for all 
they ever knew his horses might have dashed 
into the English Channel with him after them 
in mad pursuit. 

It did not take long for the swift-moving 


150 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

automobile to reach Kenilworth Castle and 
here the whole party alighted and spent a de- 
lightful half-hour roaming among the ruins. 
Sheep grazed peacefully on the grounds where 
years before the splendid pageants for Good 
Queen Bess had come and gone ; and deep 
red wild roses still bloomed in neglected gar- 
dens on the very bushes, perhaps, which had 
once yielded up their beauty and fragrance 
for poor Amy Robsart ; heaped up stone, grass 
grown foundations, and broken arches, were 
all that remained of that once splendid castle 
which saw so many momentous periods in 
English history. Lingering longest at what 
is called Amy Robsart’s tower they recalled 
the sad story of her untimely death and they 
dropped some of the red roses they had picked 
in the gardens at her shrine. 

On the way down to the waiting automobile 
Jean stopped to take a picture of some sheep 
and Don Faringdon, as the young chauffeur 
was called, stayed behind to help her. They 
became good friends at once and by the time 
they had caught up with the others Jean had 
promised to sit on the front seat in order that 


UP TO LONDON 


151 

she might be shown the interesting things 
along the way. For some reason or other 
Jean seemed to have forgotten her very recent 
aversion to running comments on the scenery 
and now accepted with alacrity the oppor- 
tunity for more information. 

As the car started off again Mr. Faringdon 
gave the order to go direct to Warwick Castle 
but his wife exclaimed, Why, John, is it pos- 
sible you have forgotten what, in my estima- 
tion, is the most interesting thing from 
Stratford to Leamington? Surely they must 
see Guy’s Cliff, even if they don’t have time 
for some of the other things.” 

‘‘ By all means,” replied Mr. Faringdon, ‘‘ I 
confess I had forgotten all about it, but then, 
I don’t go in for romance to the extent that 
you do, my dear.” 

“ I must admit,” said Miss Hooper, that 
I know nothing about Guy’s Cliff and had not 
planned to stop there. Perhaps you will tell 
us about it, Mrs. Faringdon.” 

‘‘ I shall be very glad to, for I think it is 
one of the most beautiful spots you will find 
in all England and then one always enjoys 


152 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


visiting historic places so much more when one 
knows something about their traditions. 

At the present time Guy’s Cliff is the seat 
of Lord Percy but it originally derived its 
name from Guy, Earl of Warwick, whom 
legend says slew the Dun Cow and other ter- 
rible monsters. After performing these feats 
he went to the Holy Land and when he re- 
turned as an anchorite he lived in a cave on 
the river just a little below his house. His 
identity was known to no one and daily he 
received alms from his wife, the Countess 
Felice, who did not recognize her husband in 
this disguise. So the days went by and not 
until his death did the earl reveal himself. 
His only request was that he might be buried 
in the cave and this was granted. Soon after 
the beautiful countess mourned her life away 
and was placed beside her husband. Near by 
is a small chapel erected in their memory and 
a rude statue of Guy. The grounds and 
house are open to visitors during the absence 
of the present owner and just now the family 
are in London for the season so we can spend 
as much time there as we please. I always 


UP TO LONDON 


153 


insist that we stop here whenever we go over 
the road and although we go very often I al- 
ways find just as much to interest me as I did 
the first time I visited it/^ 

‘‘ It certainly sounds most attractive/' an- 
swered Miss Hooper; ‘‘those are just the 
places I like best to visit. Castles and ca- 
thedrals are all very well in their way, but 
it’s a real pleasure to find something personal 
like this that has escaped Baedeker and the 
guide-books.” 

They found Guy’s Cliff all that Mrs. Far- 
ingdon had described it, and nothing would 
do but Jean and Elizabeth and the chauffeur 
must creep into the dark gloomy cave and ex- 
plore its threatening depths. But they were 
very glad to get out in the sunshine again 
and Elizabeth looked so pale that the others 
declared she must have seen the ghost of old 
Sir Guy himself. 

From Guy’s Cliff it was but a short run to 
Warwick Castle and as automobiles are not 
allowed in the grounds Mr. and Mrs. Far- 
ingdon suggested that they stay outside in the 
car while Don showed the others the grounds 


154 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


and the old Saxon castle dating back to feudal 
days. 

Leaving the porter’s lodge they walked up 
an avenue cut in the solid rock and soon 
reached the Center Court with Caesar’s Tower, 
which was built soon after the Norman Con- 
quest, and Guy’s Tower. Passing through the 
double gateway between the towers they found 
themselves in the Inner Court with the most 
beautiful, velvety, green grass. As they were 
hurrying through the main rooms of the cas- 
tle Je^n overheard some one ahead of her say 
that the best thing about the whole place was 
the wonderful view from the top of Guy’s 
Tower but unfortunately it was not open every 
day to the public. This was enough to make 
Jean want to climb the tower and she declared 
she didn’t care about seeing any more paint- 
ings or swords or helmets but she did want 
to climb the tower. Elizabeth was intensely 
interested in the interior through which they 
were passing and was perfectly willing to re- 
main there with Miss Hooper while Jean and 
Don went out to see what success they would 
have in getting into the tower. 


UP TO LONDON 


155 


Sure enough, when they reached the tower 
they found its entrance closed and locked but 
they were not discouraged and began to walk 
toward a man approaching them, whom they 
took, from his appearance, to be a gardener. 
Encouraged by the pleasant expression on his 
face Don spoke to him and told him what 
they wanted to do and then asked if there was 
any possible way they could enter the tower. 

With a smile he replied, '' The tower is reg- 
ularly closed on Wednesdays, but I think per- 
haps I can get permission for you to go up 
to-day. If you’ll wait here I’ll do my best 
for you and return as soon as I can.” 

Hardly was he out of hearing before Jean 
exclaimed, Oh, Mr. Faringdon, he can’t be 
a gardener in spite of his poor-looking clothes. 
Did you notice his voice and his perfect Eng- 
lish? Who do you suppose he is? Perhaps 
we ought not to have spoken to him. Here 
he is coming back and he’s swinging some 
enormous keys on his fingers.” 

It’s all right,” said the stranger, you can 
go up to-day and I’ll go with you if you like 
for it’s a bit dark and narrow if you’re not 


156 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


accustomed to it.” Then with a laugh he 
added over his shoulder, as he unlocked the 
great door, '' And then, too, it’s said to be 
haunted, you know.” 

Oh, I don’t mind ghosts,” said Jean, “ I’ve 
had lots of experience with them.” And she 
followed him inside. 

It was decided that the stranger should go 
first and then Jean and finally Don. When 
they had climbed about fifty feet there was a 
shrill, piercing cry and Jean clutched fiercely 
at the stranger ahead of her and whispered 
hoarsely, ‘'What was that awful noise? Oh, 
there it is again.” 

But the stranger laughed as he answered, 
“ I told you the tower was haunted ; perhaps 
it’s only ghosts up above us or down in the 
dungeon below. However, keep up your cour- 
age and when we reach the top I’ll show you 
the ghosts.” 

Fortunately the sounds were not repeated 
and by the time they reached the top Jean 
had recovered her composure. The view of 
the surrounding country which met their as- 
tonished gaze more than repaid any unpleas- 


UP TO LONDON 


157 


antness that they had experienced in reaching 
the top but Jean could not forget, even for a 
moment, the strange sounds which had fright-' 
ened her so and the first thing she said was, 
‘‘Now that we are safely up here, please tell 
me where the ghosts are/’ 

Then with a smile the stranger pointed to 
a wall just beyond the Inner Court and said, 
“ Do you see those peacocks sunning them- 
selves on the wall? They and those all about 
the grounds are the ghosts you thought you 
heard. Perhaps one of them will call again 
for your special pleasure. It will not sound 
the same here as it did down in the tower for 
there seems to be a strange echo there.” 

And, then as if in answer to his words, one 
of the largest of the birds spread out its 
glorious plumage and uttered its shrill, rasping 
call, so incongruous with its beauty, and so 
trying to one’s nerves. 

“ Well,” said Jean, “ I have never seen pea- 
cocks before and they surely are the most 
beautifully colored birds there are, but I’m 
glad I don’t have to sleep where I’d hear them 
every night. I’d surely dream of ghosts then.” 


158 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


Oh, you’d become used to them, I never 
think of them at all.” 

After they had seen all they wished to they 
descended by the same way they had come 
but this time without incident and at the foot 
of the tower the stranger said good-bye and 
left them to seek their friends. 

When they found Elizabeth and Miss 
Hooper just leaving the Conservatory where 
they had been looking at the “ Warwick Vase ” 
found in Hadrian’s Villa at Tiroli, Jean ex- 
claimed, Oh, you’ve missed the most exciting 
adventure yet. We’ve been up in the Tower 
and some one of the Earl’s family took us 
up and told us all about it.” 

‘‘ Who was it ? ” asked Miss Hooper. 

‘^Oh, I don’t know,” said Jean, ‘‘but I’m 
perfectly sure it was some prince or other 
wandering round the grounds in disguise,” and 
on the way back to the waiting automobile 
she told the others the details of the adven- 
ture. 

It developed on the ride up to Oxford that 
Donald Faringdon was a student at Christ 
College and lived with his uncle and aunt in 


UP TO LONDON 


159 


the city. When Miss Hooper mentioned the 
hotel at which she intended to stop he sug- 
gested that they go instead to a small boarding- 
house near the college kept by a cousin of his 
mother for students during the winter, but 
practically deserted in the summer. He as- 
sured them they would find things very com- 
fortable and homey there and they would be 
near the home of the Faringdons to which 
they were invited to come as often as pos- 
sible. And much to the delight of one mem- 
ber of the party at least, Mr. Faringdon placed 
his automobile and chauffeur at their disposal 
as long as they remained in the city. 

Miss Hooper was delighted with the sugges- 
tion and they were taken to Mrs. Sherwood^s 
house to see if they could be accommodated 
there. It happened that some Americans had 
left that very afternoon and so there was 
plenty of room for Miss Hooper’s party. As 
the three left their newly-made friends at 
Mrs. Sherwood’s gate they thanked them for 
all that had been done for them during the 
day and pleaded to be excused from automo- 
biling that evening as was suggested, but 


i6o JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


promised to be ready in the morning for a 
ride round the city and their first view of the 
colleges. 

They found Mrs. Sherwood and her house 
charming, and although their rooms were on 
the third floor they were cool and commanded 
an excellent view of the city. When they 
went down to dinner they met their landlady’s 
two charming daughters, one of whom was 
to wait on the table that evening for she ex- 
plained that she and her sister took turns per- 
forming this little duty. There were two 
gentlemen who came in shortly after they 
were seated and to their great astonishment 
they discovered that one was Professor Wey- 
mouth, who sat at the head of their table on 
the Adriatic and who they supposed was go- 
ing to Germany to study; the other was a 
young Austrian taking a summer course at the 
University and who apparently spoke no Eng- 
lish but he bowed graciously as he was intro- 
duced to the Americans. During the meal he 
took no part in the conversation and scarcely 
raised his eyes from his food except to steal 
an occasional glance at the pretty daughter of 


UP TO LONDON i6i 

the house who waited on him. He left the 
table before the others had finished and went 
out into the garden but by the time the others 
arrived there he had disappeared. 

After breakfast the next morning Don came 
with the automobile to take them to the col- 
leges and they spent until noon visiting one 
after another of the ancient halls of learning. 
Just as they were leaving Merton College 
Jean caught sight of the young Austrian and 
started to tell Don about him. 

Oh, that’s Rudolph Meistenburg. He’s 
over from Austria, taking a course at Merton. 
I’ve known him for some time and he’s a fine 
fellow in spite of the fact that it’s difficult 
to understand him. He thinks his English is 
very poor and he won’t try to talk it much, 
but he speaks French and German fluently. 
I believe he’s specializing in history. I’ll ask 
him over if you would care to meet him, and 
we can take him back with us to the house in 
the machine.” 

The young fellow seemed very glad to join 
them and although he was very reticent about 
answering in English they managed to keep 


i 62 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


up a spirited tri-cornered conversation in 
French, German, and English. When Don 
left them he invited the two girls and the 
Austrian to go punting on the river that even- 
ing in the moonlight. 

In the afternoon Miss Hooper had a head- 
ache and preferred lying down to shopping 
with the girls, so they started out alone with 
full directions from the Sherwoods for finding 
their way around the city. In one of the shop 
windows Jean saw a white embroidered muslin 
which took her fancy and she went in and pur- 
chased it. Finding after a fitting that it 
needed a few simple alterations she decided to 
wait until it was ready and carry it back with 
her. However, she insisted that Elizabeth 
should go out on the street to finish her sight- 
seeing and come back after her in about an 
hour. 

But before that time Elizabeth came hurry- 
ing into the back of the store where Jean sat 
patiently waiting and said in an excited voice, 
“ Oh, Jean, Fve found a place where they sell 
coffee ice-cream and you can have some of 
the real thing at last. It's just down the 


UP TO LONDON 163 

street a little way on the other side. Is your 
dress nearly ready? ” 

I don’t believe so ; but I’ll tell the clerk 
we’re going out a little while and will return 
later for the dress. It surely will be ready by 
that time. I feel just like ice-cream this very 
minute.” 

The two girls quickly left the store and 
Elizabeth guided Jean to a teashop and paus- 
ing before a window pointed proudly to a 
sign hanging in the window which read Cafi 
Glace'* There it is,” she said, coffee ice- 
cream, just as I told you.” 

‘‘ You’re right,” said Jean, and I verily be- 
lieve I can eat three of them. I’m nearly 
starved for something of the kind.” 

When they entered the shop they sat down 
at a little table nearest the entrance and gave 
the order for two cafe glach to the clerk who 
waited upon them. She was such a long time 
in returning with the order that they had 
plenty of time to observe what was going on 
in the rest of the shop. Down in the lower 
end were quite a group of men all drinking 
tea and eating cakes and chatting quite as 


i 64 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


merrily as any group of women would have 
done. Jean could not understand how they 
could be away from business in the afternoon 
and she thought it very silly of them to be 
wasting valuable time in tea-drinking. She 
was a little tired and hot and amused at the 
novel sight of men drinking afternoon tea and 
the longer she waited for her own ice-cream 
the more amusing the scene became. Never 
drinking tea or coffee herself, the idea of 
others enjoying it to such an extent as this 
made her laugh and thp more she and Eliza- 
beth talked of it, the more she laughed. For 
no accountable reason at all except perhaps 
that one often laughs at nothing and at the 
wrong time. 

She had just about made up her mind to ask 
the clerk if their order had been forgotten 
when she saw her approaching them. She put 
down on the table before them two tall thin 
glasses with straws protruding and then left 
them to enjoy the contents. Jean took one 
look and laughing so that she could hardly 
control herself she said, What is this mix- 
ture? It is surely the strangest coffee ice- 


UP TO LONDON 165 

cream I ever saw/' One mouthful informed 
her that it was iced coffee, which she detested. 

Instead of being angry the whole affair 
struck her as being very amusing and she 
laughed until the tears rolled down her face. 

Oh, Elizabeth,” she said, what do you 
suppose Mile. Franchant would say to our 
French? Of course cafe glace means iced 
coffee instead of coffee ice-cream. I’m glad 
you made the discovery and not 1 . I’m 
ashamed to laugh so, but positively I cannot 
stop. Let’s go out as quickly as we can. 
You pay the bill and I’ll settle with you later. 
I’ll wait for you on the sidewalk. I simply 
couldn’t look those girls in the face without 
disgracing myself more than I’ve already 
done.” 

She hurriedly left the store with the won- 
dering clerks gazing after her, and Elizabeth 
felt so embarrassed that she had to tell one 
of them the joke although it didn’t seem to 
be appreciated as much as she expected it 
would be. She joined Jean and they hurried to 
the store and found the dress ready for them. 

At supper that evening the two girls were 


i66 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


greatly surprised to hear the young Austrian 
say, ** Excuse me, but did ze young ladies en- 
joy ze tea this afternoon? Was it very 
funny?’’ And although they had agreed to 
keep the little joke on them to themselves 
they now felt obliged to explain it to the 
others. At first they could not understand how 
Mr. Meistenburg knew anything about it but 
he explained later that he had been drinking tea 
with some friends, but was so far back in a 
corner that they probably had not noticed him. 

The four young people spent the evening on 
the river and Jean saw for the first time how 
difficult punting was, and she decided on the 
spot that she would not attempt to substitute 
it at college for either rowing or canoeing. 
The next morning Don took them all over to 
Cambridge to see the sister university and 
while they admired the beautiful lawns and 
avenues behind the college buildings, the col- 
leges themselves and the rivjr Cam, they de- 
cided Oxford was the more interesting and 
Elizabeth expressed a desire to take her ad- 
vanced work in history there. 

It was decided that they should go up to 


UP TO LONDON 


167 


London the next morning by train, although 
the Faringdon automobile was at their disposal. 
But they accepted the offer to be carried from 
the house to the railway station in it. For 
some reason the auto was very late in arriving 
and they had barely time to make the distance. 
When they were about half way there Jean 
exclaimed, Oh, Fve forgotten my camera and 
my pocketbook and the three umbrellas. I 
must have left them on that old-fashioned 
chair in the hall at Mrs. Sherwoods. Fve sim- 
ply got to have them. We’ll have to go back 
even if we do miss the train.” 

They went back and recovered the lost 
articles and then dashed for the train, but it was 
too late for it was just disappearing from view. 

It’s all my fault, I know,” wailed Jean, 

but I can’t remember everything. I’m 
dreadfully sorry.” 

“ Never mind,” said the young chauffeur, 
** I’m dreadfully glad, for now you’ll have to 
let me carry yoif all up to London in the ma- 
chine. We’ll be there much quicker than if 
you waited for the noon train. Pile in, peo- 
ple, and we’ll away.” 


CHAPTER VIII 


DAYS IN LONDON 

ABOT, — Jean Cabot/' said Jean 
E . expectantly to the young clerk 
who asked her name as she stood 
at the post office window at the American 
Express Company’s office. She watched him 
anxiously as he ran through the letters but 
when he returned to the window and handed 
her only one letter postmarked London,” she 
looked at him incredulously. 

Is — is that all ? ” she stammered. Why 
there must be some from America. Would 
you mind looking again ? ” 

But a second search on the part of the clerk 
brought no better results and it was a very 
disappointed girl that joined Elizabeth and 
Miss Hooper at one of the desks where they 
sat looking through their generous supply of 
letters. I can’t understand it at all,” she 

i68 


DAYS IN LONDON 


169 


said. I know father and the boys and Bess 
and Nan must have written. They promised 
they would and they always keep their prom- 
ises. I don’t know what to do about it, I 
feel so badly. Here I’ve been keeping up my 
courage for two whole weeks with the thought 
that I’d have a letter from Dad as soon as I 
reached London. I’m almost tempted to cable 
him and see if anything is the matter.” 

Don’t worry, Jean,” said Miss Hooper. 

I’m sure nothing serious has happened. 
There are mail steamers arriving every day or 
so, and I haven’t a doubt but that you will 
have more letters to-morrow or next day. 
You have one, haven’t you?” 

Yes.” And after Jean tore open the en- 
velope and looked at the signature she ex- 
claimed, ‘'It’s from Mr. Atherton. Won’t it 
seem good to see him again? He promised 
to show us round London and introduce us 
to some of his English friends.” 

She began reading the letter but soon burst 
out, “ Well, what do you think ! Mr. Ather- 
ton has been obliged to leave London sooner 
than he expected in order to meet a business 


170 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


engagement in Paris. He says he’s awfully 
sorry to miss us for he has been anticipating 
giving us a good time. However, Jack and 
Bob are still here and he has been coaching 
them up on all the good things and feels proud 
to leave them as his official substitutes. He 
hopes he’ll run across us later on but as yet 
his plans are not very definite. 

Well, I’m disappointed again. Disap- 
pointments go by threes, they say. I’ve al- 
ready had two this morning so I’ll have to 
be on the lookout for the third. You two 
seem so interested in your letters I think I’ll 
leave you and go over to the desk and make 
one more attempt to find my letters.” 

When she returned she tried to smile but 
it was very hard work. ‘‘ It’s come, another 
disappointment. I told you they always go in 
threes.” 

“What is it, Jean?” asked Elizabeth. 
“ You look as though you’d lost your last 
friend. We’re still left, even if all the others 
have deserted you.” 

“Oh, but they haven’t deserted me, that’s 
the most provoking part. This time I went 


DAYS IN LONDON 171 

up to another clerk and asked for my mail 
and as he was repeating my name an older 
man seated at a desk came up and said, ‘ Why ! 
Are you Miss Jean Cabot? We had several 
letters for you but we forwarded them only 
yesterday to Italy to a Miss Jean Cabot who 
is traveling with one of Cook’s parties which 
left London two weeks ago. Probably, when 
she finds out they are not for her, she will 
return them very soon and we’ll see that you 
get them all right.’ 

Isn’t that the strangest thing ! I had no 
idea there was another Jean Cabot in the whole 
world. I’d like to meet her and see how we 
compare in other respects. But most of all 
I’d like to get my letters.” 

‘‘Indeed it is very irritating,” said Miss 
Hooper, “ but speaking of Cook’s reminds me 
that I would like to go up to their office as 
soon as possible to see what can be done about 
tickets for the rest of the trip. Suppose we 
walk up there now.” 

Just as they were leaving the office they 
met Bob Bowker and Jack Raymond. “ Well,” 
said Jack, “ it does seem good to see you 


V 


172 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

again. Have you registered at the desk? 
We’ve been here every day to see if we could 
find your names, but nothing doing. We’ve 
seen stacks of the people that came over on 
the Adriatic. Everywhere we go we see some 
one we know. For all London is so large,, 
every one goes to about the same places.” 

‘‘ We’ve only just come,” said Jean. We 
motored up from Oxford. Isn’t it a shame 
Mr. Atherton couldn’t stay until after we ar- 
rived? But then if we can’t have him to show 
us around we’ve got a very good substitute to 
offer, for we met a fine young Oxford fellow 
who knows London well. He lived here most 
of his life. He’s promised to come up often 
while we are here and take us out to see the 
sights. You’ll both like him immensely and 
then as you are going to Oxford next year it 
will be fine to know some one there. I’ve 
quite lost my heart to him. He has only one 
fault that I’ve discovered so far and that is he’s 
very forgetful. I think I never saw any one 
quite as much so as he. Perhaps it’s absent- 
mindedness, I haven’t decided yet.” 

‘‘ Under those circumstances, perhaps you 


4 


DAYS IN LONDON 173 

won’t need us round then, Miss Cabot,” said 
Bob a little dejectedly. We’re only a few 
more days here, anyway.” 

“ Why, Bob Bowker, what are you saying? 
Of course we want you. The more the mer- 
rier. As though one could ever have too many 
friends. We seem to be blocking up the side- 
walk here so I think we’d better move along. 
We’re going up to Cook’s Office and we’d be 
delighted to have you come with us, if you’d 
care to.” 

The boys accepted eagerly in spite of Bob’s 
pique of the moment, and he and Jean headed 
the little procession on its way up to Piccadilly. 
Tickets were soon bought and then the boys 
asked “ the three ” what they wanted to see 
first, for they had decided to have luncheon 
and then spend the afternoon together. Jean 
wanted to see the Tower, Elizabeth, Westmin- 
ster Abbey, and Miss Hooper, the National 
Gallery. 

However luncheon proved so delightful and 
the conversation so entertaining that it was 
after two before they were ready to start any- 
where. As they could not seem to decide 


174 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


where to go first, Jack finally suggested that 
they take a ’bus ride through some of the 
interesting districts and after that a ride in 
one of the little river steamers for by so doing 
they could get a general idea of the city by 
land and by sea. 

As they were waiting for a ’bus in Trafalgar 
Square, Elizabeth, who had been observing the 
traffic before her, exclaimed, “ Why how pe- 
culiar! All the ’busses and teams go to the 
left instead of to the right as they do at home. 
We’d better get on the other side of the street 
or we’ll never get on a ’bus.” 

Good for you, Elizabeth,” said Jean. 

Here these fellows have been here a week and 
we, who have just come, can give them some 
information.” 

“ Yes, you’re right. Miss Fairfax,” said 
Bob. All traffic does move to the left here. 
We know that, but you see we are so inter- 
ested in seeing you all again that a little thing 
like traffic doesn’t count. There’s our ’bus 
now.” And crossing the street they hailed a 
passing ’bus and climbing up on top soon be- 


DAYS IN LONDON 


175 

came a part of that vast moving throng which 
fills London night and day. 

The lurching ’bus rattled along over the 
pavements and an ever-changing panorama 
presented itself to the wondering gaze of at 
least two of the passengers. The streets 
seemed filled to overflowing with vehicles of 
every description ; the sidewalks literally 
swarmed with pedestrians ; the buildings, some 
high, some low, seemed crowded so closely to- 
gether that one wondered if even air could 
circulate among them. Near at hand were 
shops, theatres, and dwelling houses, and in 
the distance church-spires, castle-towers and 
bridges, and now and then an occasional 
glimpse of the river. 

At last, finding themselves before Westmin- 
ster Abbey, they alighted to take their first view 
of it and the Parliament Buildings. It was a 
temptation to enter, but they had promised 
themselves that pleasure for another day, so, 
after viewing them from many sides they left 
them behind and boarded a small steamer for 
a short ride up and down the river. There 


176 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


were many other passengers and soon they 
found themselves entering into conversation 
with those about them. 

As they left London Bridge behind them a 
pleasant- faced, white-haired old Englishman 
who had been talking with Elizabeth said, 
‘‘ Well, young lady, I take it you’re from the 
States. Tell me, now that you’ve seen our 
London Bridge, how does it compare with that 
great Brooklyn Bridge of yours?” 

Oh, sir,” said Elizabeth. ‘‘ I cannot tell 
you, for I have never visited Brooklyn Bridge.” 

‘‘ What ! Unfamiliar with Brooklyn Bridge ! 
How strange ! ” replied the old gentleman. 

They changed the conversation but he and 
Elizabeth continued to talk on other subjects 
of interest until as they neared the Parliament 
Buildings he said again : “ Well, young lady ! 
They tell me you have some pretty fine gov- 
ernment buildings in Washington! How do 
you think they compare with our Parliament 
Buildings ? ” 

Oh, sir,” said Elizabeth. I’m very sorry 
to say it, but I cannot tell you, because I’ve 
never been in Washington.” 


DAYS IN LONDON 


177 


Never been in Washington or on Brooklyn 
Bridge! And you come to England to see 
our country when you have never seen your 
own. I cannot understand that. You are 
very funny people over there.” 

Perhaps you’re right,” said Elizabeth, 
some of us are very funny, but then the 
United States covers a great deal of territory 
and it takes a long while to. see it all.” 

But as the boat stopped and Elizabeth’s 
party alighted she said to Jean and Miss 
Hooper, after she had told them of the inci- 
dent, Before I come abroad again I mean to 
visit Washington and Brooklyn Bridge, for I 
never want to be humiliated like that again 
by any Englishman.” 

Yes,” said Jean. ‘‘We three will spend 
our spring vacation next year in Washington 
and run up to New York for a day or two.” 

Elizabeth smiled to herself for although she 
knew Jean could gratify every wish, with her 
it was an entirely different matter. 

They had taken but a few steps from the 
boat-landing when it began to sprinkle and 
they suddenly perceived that a great black 


178 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

cloud was gathering over their heads. Oh, 
it’s going to rain,” said Bob ; it always does 
in London. I don’t believe we’ve had one 
whole pleasant day since we came. No mat- 
ter how pleasant it is in the morning it al- 
ways manages to put in a little rain before 
the day is over. It looks as though it were 
coming down hard this time. I think we’d 
better make for that porch over at Westmin- 
ster Abbey and maybe we can hail a cab or 
a ’bus from there. There’s nothing in sight 
here.” 

Although they hurried as fast as they could, 
before they had crossed the square and reached 
the church the rain was coming down in tor- 
rents and their thin clothes were soon wet 
through. When they were under cover on the 
great porch they were all pretty thoroughly 
disgusted with London weather and shivered 
and shuddered as the chill wind from the river 
struck through their wet clothes. Not one 
shop in sight where they might buy rubbers 
or umbrellas, but as the storm increased it 
was doubtful if one could have held up an 
umbrella, so fiercely did the wind blow. Other 


DAYS IN LONDON 


179 


pedestrians sought refuge in neighboring door- 
ways and at the church entrance as the rain 
continued to fall, and all waited in vain for 
some passing vehicle to convey them to their 
destination. 

At last, thoroughly disgusted. Bob declared 
he would not stand there another moment for 
he could not be any wetter than he already 
was, so he dashed out into the rain and dis- 
appeared. Just about the time that the others 
began to get anxious over his non-appearance, 
fearing that he had perhaps met with some 
accident, they caught sight of a dejected- 
looking, rain-soaked horse and cab tearing 
around the corner and from the window they 
saw Bob's long thin arm waving joyfully at 
them. When the cab drew up to the sidewalk 
in front of them. Bob jumped out and opening 
a huge umbrella which he had borrowed from 
the obliging cabman, hastened to the little 
group awaiting him. 

“ Don’t ask me where I’ve been or why I 
was gone so long. Suffice it to say that I’ve 
been all over London to find you a cab and 
only got this one after flinging my entire for- 


i8o JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


tune at the driver’s feet. Do hurry for I’m 
paying him by the hour and I want enough 
money left to get to Paris next week. I sup- 
pose if I were good old Sir Walter Raleigh 
I’d lay my coat down for you ladies to walk 
over this puddle, but the coat’s so wet now 
I assure you it wouldn’t do one bit of good.” 

As quickly as possible the five crowded into 
their narrow quarters and were driven to Rus- 
sell Square where Miss Hooper and the girls 
were staying. The boys refused to remain for 
dinner saying that they were unwilling to dis- 
grace their friends by their bedraggled appear- 
ance but they promised to come the following 
evening if no unforeseen accident happened 
the next day to spoil the few remaining clothes 
they possessed. 

“ The three ” spent the evening writing let- 
ters and as it was the first opportunity they 
had had to write anything but postal cards 
since they landed they all found so much to 
say that it was very late when Miss Hooper 
insisted upon their going to bed. Always be- 
fore they had occupied one room, but here in 
Mrs. Southwark’s house the only rooms avail- 


DAYS IN LONDON i8i 

able were very small and had either one or 
two single beds in them; so Jean and Eliza- 
beth had a small front room together and 
Miss Hooper was just across the hall. 

As a neighboring clock was striking twelve 
the girls put out their lights and crept into 
bed. For a long time Jean lay perfectly still 
with eyes wide open, then restlessly she 
turned from one side to the other; but try 
as she might she could not sleep. Finally 
she whispered, Elizabeth, , are you awake ? 
When Elizabeth replied that she was, Jean con- 
tinued, Did you ever hear of such a noisy 
place in all your life? And yet they dare to 
say that Russell Square is one of the quietest 
places in London. I simply cannot sleep. 
I^m going to get up and look out of the win- 
dows or read or do something exciting and 
see if I can get sleepy.’’ 

Elizabeth said that she had not been able 
to sleep either, so putting on their kimonas 
they crept over to the big window seat and 
crouching there in the semi-darkness looked 
out on the lighted city. Oh, I see now why 
it’s so noisy,” said Jean. It’s the cabs roll- 


i 82 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


ing over the pavements. Did you ever see so 
many before, and at midnight, too ? And 
look at the lights ! They're everywhere, even 
in the windows around us. Don't you suppose 
people ever go to sleep here? I confess I’m 
as wide-awake as though it were noon.” 

‘‘-Yes, it’s all very strange, Jean,” said 
Elizabeth. “ But isn’t it stranger still, when 
you think of it, that we two Americans are 
sitting up here in a little upper window watch- 
ing all London roll by us ? ” 

And there they sat for over an hour until 
the noisy cabs lessened a little in number and 
pedestrians passed by less frequently. Yet 
the city still seemed ablaze with lights as 
though it were trying to turn night into day. 
Finally the girls declared they were so sleepy 
that they could sleep under any conditions 
and they crept back into bed. 

A few hours later Jean awoke with a start 
and sitting up in bed looked over at Elizabeth 
where she lay in bed with her eyes wide open. 
“ What was that unearthly noise ? ” asked 
Jean. “ Have we been asleep at all ? The 
last thing I remember was some horrid deaf- 


DAYS IN LONDON 183 

ening noise and now something worse has 
awakened me. It sounds as though some one 
were shouting for help, but I can’t make out 
what it is. Do you suppose there’s been an 
accident? I’m going to get up and see what 
has happened.” 

Elizabeth followed Jean to the window 
where they had sat but a few hours before 
and looking down into the street below them 
they saw no one but a milkman. But as he 
approached a neighboring doorway he uttered 
the same cry that had awakened the girls and 
although they suspected he was calling ‘‘ Milk,” 
it might just as well have been ‘‘ Ink ” or 
‘‘ Water,” or anything else for that matter. 
Close behind him were some vegetable ped- 
dlers, a baker, a grocer, and last of all a 
hurdy-gurdy player, and each one uttering the 
very shrillest of cries seemed to be trying to 
outdo the others in order that he might at- 
tract attention. 

What time is it? ” asked Jean. I should 
think by this array of peddlers that it must 
be about noon, but no one else seems to be 
abroad and there isn’t a sound in the house.” 


i 84 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


Elizabeth went over to the dressing table 
and looking at her watch said, Why, it’s 
only a quarter of six. How many hours do 
you think we’ve slept? Do you feel re- 
freshed?” 

No, I can’t say I do,” said Jean. “ And 
what’s more I don’t believe I’ll ever be able to 
sleep in this noisy city. I’m going to get 
dressed and finish my letters for it’s no use 
for me to go back to bed and try to sleep. I 
never can after I’m once awake. Why don’t 
you go, though, and try to get in another hour 
or two? You know breakfast isn’t served 
until between eight and nine o’clock.” 

I think I will,” said Elizabeth, and she 
went back to her single bed and closed her 
eyes. Jean partly dressed and slipping on her 
kimona sat down at the one small desk the 
room afforded and began to write strenuously. 

Several hours later the door opened softly 
and Miss Hooper stepped into the room and 
to her astonishment saw Jean at the desk with 
her head buried in her arms, apparently fast 
asleep, while Elizabeth lay in her bed breath- 
ing heavily. Although she could not account 


DAYS IN LONDON 185 

for Jean’s strange sleeping-place she said noth- 
ing but withdrew as quietly as she had entered 
saying to herself, Poor dears, evidently they 
have had a sleepless night, too, but we will 
get used to it after a night or two; one al- 
ways does.” 

When they called for their mail that noon 
at the American Express Co.’s office there 
were no American letters for Jean but she had 
a note from Don Faringdon in which he' told 
her that his uncle had been called away on 
business for a few days and he was to go 
with him in the automobile. Consequently he 
could not go up to London as he expected, 
until their return which would be on the fol- 
lowing Tuesday. His aunt had given him 
four seats for Grand Opera that evening at 
Covet Garden for a performance of Thais ” 
and he invited the three to be his guests that 
evening. He said that unless he heard from 
them to the contrary he should take it for 
granted that they would accept his invitation 
and he would call for them in his machine 
about quarter of eight Tuesday evening. 

“ Isn’t that kind of Mrs. Faringdon? ” said 


i86 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


Jean. Imagine hearing Grand Opera in 
London!’^ 

Yes/’ added Miss Hooper, “ and it’s the 
great London season now and we shall have 
an opportunity to see the aristocracy of Eng- 
land. We must get out our best gowns for 
tlie occasion and do credit to our native land.” 

‘‘To tell the truth, I’m rather glad it’s hap- 
pened this way, for although I should enjoy 
having Don take us around the city, as long 
as Bob and Jack are here now they’re quite 
sufficient. And just about the time they’ll be 
leaving Don will arrive on the scene. Some- 
how I don’t think Bob and Don would enjoy 
each other. With Jack it would be all right, 
but Bob’s so different, you know.” 

“ Rivals never do care much for each other’s 
society,” said Elizabeth with a smile. 

But Jean stopped her with a, “ Now don’t 
be silly, Beth. There’s no such thing as rivals 
in this case. The boys said they’d meet us 
here at one, but they don’t seem to be on time 
to-day. It’s already half-past one. I don’t 
think we ought to wait much longer. I guess 
we can go, to the Tower without them if it’s 


DAYS IN LONDON 187 

necessary. Oh, here they come now, hurrying 
as though their lives depended upon it. Let’s 
turn around and look in the other direction 
so they won’t suspect we were getting anx- 
ious.” 

Soon the boys came up to them and offered 
apologies for their delay, which had been 
caused by an unexpected meeting with some 
college friends at their hotel. They took a 
’bus and started off for an afternoon at the 
Tower, that place of mystery and horror which 
still seems haunted by the spirits of the dead, 
and still seems a fitting place for murders 
and executions. As they walked up the last 
few narrow winding streets they seemed to 
lose their way and stopping a pleasant- faced 
old man whom they met they asked him in 
which direction the Tower was. 

With a smile he replied, “ Oh, keep right 
on. It’s just straight away opposyte. You 
can’t miss it.” 

Although they hardly knew what he meant 
by ‘‘straight away opposyte,” they continued 
as they had been going and before long they 
found themselves at the Lion’s Gate, the en- 


i88 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


trance to the Tower. Once inside the grounds 
they wandered from one gray tower to another 
and gazed with wonder at priceless crown 
jewels and royal regalia, at old armor and 
relics, at faint inscriptions of languishing 
prisoners, at the spot marking the execution 
of Anne Boleyn, at the burial-places of great 
men and women of the Elizabethan Period, 
at the site of the murder of the Little 
Princes and all the hideous crimes committed 
in those gloomy chambers. They lived over 
again in thought that awful period of English 
history, and left the prison with a mingled 
feeling of pity for the countless victims who 
were sacrificed to the passing whims of mon- 
archs, together with a real thankfulness that 
they lived in the twentieth century and in a 
democracy. 

The next day, Sunday, they attended morn- 
ing service at Westminster Abbey and after- 
wards wandered through its countless cham- 
bers and lingered for a long time before the 
bust of Longfellow in the Poet’s Corner. In 
the afternoon they visited the National Art 
Gallery and met several shipboard acquaint- 


DAYS IN LONDON 


189 


ances. Monday they devoted to Windsor Cas- 
tle and the country near it, and Tuesday to 
St. Paul’s Church and several of the most 
interesting streets of the city. 

They were walking up Fleet Street about 
four in the afternoon and Bob and Jean were 
behind the others having stopped before “ The 
Cheshire Cheese ” to discuss Dr. Johnson and 
Boswell. When they had settled the point in 
question Bob said, “ You know, Jean, that 
Jack and I are going to leave London early 
to-morrow morning. We’re going up to Edin- 
burgh and spend some time in the northern 
part of Scotland with some of Jack’s relatives. 
We shall be in Ireland late in August prob- 
ably, but that part of the trip isn’t settled yet. 
We may become so enthusiastic over Scotland 
that we’ll stay there until it’s time to start back 
to Oxford.” 

“Isn’t that splendid!” said Jean. “It’s 
practically what we are going to do. I hope 
we’ll see you often along the way.” 

“ I most certainly hope so, too,” replied Bob. 
“ But before we go Jack and I have planned 
a little surprise for you three. To-night’s our 


190 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


last night, and weVe bought tickets for one 
of the best musical shows you ever saw. I’ll 
not tell you the name now, for that’s part of 
the surprise. After the show we’ll have sup- 
per at our hotel if Miss Hooper’s willing. 
What do you say to our surprise, Jean? ” 

“ Oh, Bob ! I’m so sorry, but we can’t go 
to-night. You see we’ve promised to go to 
Grand Opera with Don Faringdon. He’s 
coming up from Oxford in his machine to 
take us. I forgot to say anything to you 
about it but he invited us last week. I didn’t 
think when I accepted that Tuesday night 
would be your last here. It’s a perfect shame, ^ 
but I don’t see how it can be helped now.” 

“Of course not, Jean, but why didn’t you 
say something about it before and then we 
could have planned something else ? ” 

“ I don’t know why I didn’t, but it simply 
didn’t occur to me.” 

“ Well, I suppose we can ask the Princeton 
fellows we met this noon at the hotel to use 
the tickets, but it won’t be much like the even- 
ing we planned.” 

Bob tried to be cheerful, but somehow he 


DAYS IN LONDON 191 

didn’t succeed and the rest of the walk was a 
dismal failure. When the party separated at 
Russell Square good-byes were said and prom- 
ises made for frequent letters and future meet- 
ings if possible, in Scotland and Ireland. As 

the three ” went up to their rooms Elizabeth 
said, ‘‘Jean, what was the matter with Bob 
the last part of the afternoon? He seemed 
awfully grumpy over something.” Then Jean 
told them as briefly as possible what had hap- 
pened and they agreed with her that it was 
very unfortunate things couldn’t have been ar- 
ranged differently. 

Very early after dinner that evening “ the 
three ” went up to their rooms to dress for 
the opera. They all meant to look their best 
so Don might not be ashamed of the appear- 
ance of his American friends. Miss Hooper 
wore an exquisite soft gray crepe de chine, 
Elizabeth a pale pink messaline, and Jean a 
stunning black and white silk and chiffon 
creation which she had bought at Liberty’s 
that week. By twenty minutes of eight they 
were all ready, even to donning their opera 
coats and scarfs and went down to the living- 


192 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

room to await the arrival of Don and the 
automobile. Jean sat by the window to catch 
the first glimpse of the car, for she was so ex- 
cited at the prospect of the evening’s pleasure 
that she was anxious to be off. She hated to 
wait for anything, anyway, and when Don said 
quarter of eight she didn’t see why he wasn’t 
there at that time. 

They sat there patiently until the little clock 
on the mantel struck eight and then Jean gave 
way to her impatience. ‘‘ Why, what do you 
suppose has happened ? ” she said. ‘‘ It’s eight 
o’clock now, and we shall be late. I’m dis- 
appointed, for I wanted to be there early 
enough to see the people come in. That’s half 
the fun at opera.” 

Don’t worry yet,” said Miss Hooper, per- 
haps something has happened to the machine. 
I’m sure he’ll be along soon. ‘ Thais ’ is a 
very long opera, so we won’t mind missing 
some of the first act. Won’t you play to us 
Jean, while we’re waiting? ” 

Jean went to the piano and began playing 
softly one thing after another until in the love 
for her music she forgot all about the opera 


DAYS IN LONDON 


193 


and her impatience. But in the middle of one 
of her favorite selections the telephone rang 
sharply and hearing it she jumped up exclaim- 
ing, There’s the telephone. I haven’t a 
doubt but that it’s Don to tell us he’s stalled 
ten miles from nowhere and so won’t be able 
to get here for an hour or so.” 

But it wasn’t Don and the clock struck half- 
past eight. Jean couldn’t be persuaded to play 
again and she walked up and down the room 
and the hall and answered the questions of 
the others with short, jerky replies. To her- 
self she was thinking that probably Don had 
forgotten all about his engagement that even- 
ing, for she had seen from the very first that 
he was the most forgetful person she had ever 
known. She didn’t like to admit this fault, 
but in spite of it he was very likable and per- 
haps there was a good reason this time for 
his non-appearance. Then too, she was a lit- 
tle disappointed that she couldn’t have accepted 
Bob’s invitation for a last good time together. 
In spite of all he had said to the contrary, she 
was sure he was a little piqued at the discovery 
that she was going to the opera with Don 


194 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


instead of with him. Although Don was for- 
getful, Bob was inclined to be jealous, and one 
fault was as bad as the other. 

Just then an automobile horn tooted and 
“ the three ” felt sure Don had come. They 
gathered their fallen wraps around them and 
stood awaiting the maid’s announcement. To 
their dismay the car contained friends of Mrs. 
Southwark and they ascended to her rooms 
leaving the three gazing at the clock as it struck 
nine. 

Well,” said Jean, I’ll wait here until half- 
past nine and not one minute after that. 
Something is wrong somewhere and probably 
we’ll have an explanation later. I’m too dis- 
appointed for words and I’ll never have any 
faith in Don Faringdon nor accept another 
invitation from him as long as I live.” 

‘‘ Careful, Jean,” said Elizabeth. ‘‘ Don’t 
make any rash promises. You know we’ve a 
week more in London and after Jack and Bob 
go we’ll probably be very glad to have some 
one take us around in an automobile.” 

‘'Well, Elizabeth, you can do just as you 


DAYS IN LONDON 


195 

please of course, but Fm not going to bother 
him again with my society.’' 

Oh, you’ll feel differently in the morning,” 
said Miss Hooper. 

At ten o’clock there was not a word or sign 
of Don and ‘‘ the three ” returned to their own 
rooms and removed their fine raiment much 
quicker than they had donned it. By the 
time they were ready for bed Jean’s mood 
had changed and her disappointment gave way 
a little to amusement as she thought of how 
they had spent the evening waiting below in 
their finery, and she was more inclined to take 
a brighter view of the matter, although she 
still cherished a little secret resentment toward 
Don. 

Early the next morning she was awakened 
by a knock at the door and opening it the 
maid informed her that some one wished to 
talk to her on the telephone. She slipped on 
her kimona and gave her tousled hair a hasty 
brushing and hurried down the stairs still half 
asleep, thinking to herself that of course it 
was Don with an explanation of his non-ap- 


196 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


pearance the evening before. As she took up 
the receiver and said “ Hello,” a cheery voice 
on the other end answered, Good morning ! 
Is that you, Jean? ” 

Without a moment’s hesitation she replied, 
“Yes, Don, but where were you last night? ” 
To her great surprise a voice replied, “ It isn’t 
Don, it’s Bob. Pardon me for calling you up 
so early but we start in about five minutes 
and I just wanted to say good-bye again.” 
And before she could utter another word he 
had hung up the receiver and gone away. 
For a moment she was tempted to call up his 
hotel but she decided to the contrary and went 
back to bed without a word to Elizabeth. 

About noon that day Don came whirling up 
to Russell Square in his machine and alighted. 
Asking for “ the three ” he apologized pro- 
foundly for his actions of the night before. 
He had forgotten the engagement; there was 
no other excuse. His uncle and aunt were 
away and he had become so interested that 
afternoon on some electrical apparatus that 
everything else slipped from his mind and only 


DAYS IN LONDON 


197 


at his aunt’s return that morning had he real- 
ized what he had done. He was very sorry, 
and much ashamed of it all, but he hoped they 
would overlook it this time and try him once 
more for he had tickets for the following Fri- 
day evening when Lucia ’’ was to be pre- 
sented. 

Elizabeth expected Jean would stoutly re- 
fuse, but to her surprise she said that she 
would accept if Don would come up to London 
Friday afternoon and let them see him all 
ready at their house before they started to 
dress. Don agreed to this and also promised 
that he would devote himself to them during 
the remainder of their stay in London and 
leave electricity and everything pertaining to 
it alone for the present. 

Don did devote himself to their interests 
and he did everything he could to make their 
sight-seeing easy and enjoyable. He stayed 
several days at a cousin’s house in the city, 
so his automobile was always at their dis- 
posal for long distances. They succeeded in 
attending the opera on Friday evening without 


198 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


any delays or mishaps and were so delighted 
with the performance that they declared they 
were almost glad they missed Thais.” 

The days flew by and it was time to start 
for Scotland. Jean’s only regrets in leaving 
London were that as yet she had received no 
American letters and that it meant saying 
good-bye to Donald Faringdon, a good friend 
whom she believed she would never see again. 


CHAPTER IX 


INTO THE HEART OF SCOTLAND 

A lthough at first they had planned 
to go on the express from London to 
Edinburgh, they changed their plans 
when they found how many interesting stops 
could be made between the two cities, and 
took a more leisurely route. As they had 
plenty of time at their disposal, they stopped 
a day at each of the Cathedral towns, York, 
Ely, and Lincoln, and viewed three of the 
grandest pieces of church architecture that 
there are in all England. Leaving England 
behind them, they crossed into Scotland, that 
land filled with associations of historic splen- 
dor and ancient romance, and rode for some 
time through red-roofed villages with occa- 
sional gray church towers in the distance with- 
out being aware of the change. But grad- 
ually the low, flat country disappeared and they 
199 


200 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

found themselves in the midst of barren hills 
where countless sheep grazed on the bracken 
and the heather. 

Elizabeth’s favorite author was Sir Walter 
Scott, and when she found they were to pass 
through the land where he had lived and died 
she begged Miss Hooper to stop there as long 
as possible. So late one afternoon they left 
the train at the little station of Melrose and 
were driven to their hotel overlooking the 
ruins of Melrose Abbey, easily the finest ruin 
in Scotland. After an early dinner they 
strolled through the ruins and coming unex- 
pectedly upon some tiny white daisies, they 
picked them and strewed them at the east end 
of the abbey where the heart of Robert Bruce 
is buried. Later in the evening as they gazed 
out of their windows upon the ruin, bathed in '' 
the white, mystical moonlight, it seemed the 
most beautiful one they had ever seen, yet sad 
because of its very isolation and the traditions 
connected with the Bruce. A feeling of lone- 
liness crept over them and they were glad to 
leave it until it should shine forth again in 
the bright morning sunlight. 


THE HEART OF SCOTLAND 201 


Next morning they started to walk the two 
miles to Abbotsford, the home of Scott; 
there were plenty of vehicles to be had, but 
they preferred to walk as the day was so per- 
fect. Abbotsford lies on the river Tweed, 
and with its countless trees and gardens 
which the poet arranged himself and the 
choice collection of treasures which the house 
contains, holds much to interest any visitor 
and especially one who loves his works. The 
three ’’ spent the whole morning there, and in 
the afternoon were driven with a gay tally-ho 
party from the hotel to the ruins of Dryburgh 
Abbey where Scott lies sleeping in the burial 
vault of his ancestors. 

Traveling nearly all the evening, they 
reached Edinburgh late Saturday afternoon 
and went to their rooms in the Station Hotel 
which had been highly recommended to them 
by some acquaintances they had made in Mel- 
rose who had just come from there. They 
ordered their dinner sent to their room as they 
were too tired to dress and go down to the 
main dining-room that evening. The maid 
was very slow in serving them, the food was 


202 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


poor and cold, the room was small and dingy 
from the constant smoke that drifted in from 
passing trains, and their first impression of 
Edinburgh hotels was anything but pleasing. 

Miss Hooper seldom complained of any- 
thing, but this was a little more than she 
could stand, especially when she was paying 
good prices for service. She left the girls 
and went down to the clerk to ask for a bet- 
ter room but she was curtly told that the hotel 
was very full for the week-end and he could 
do no better for her until the first of the week. 
There was nothing more to be done that night 
so they went to bed trying to make the best 
of things. In the morning they were obliged 
to wait a long time before they could have 
the use of the one bathroom on that floor, but 
one glance at the tub convinced them that it 
was absolutely unusable for a bath. This 
was the last straw, and Miss Hooper declared 
that she would not stay another day in such 
a wretched hotel. In spite of the fact that 
it was Sunday she was going to take her 
Baedeker and go from one place to another 


THE HEART OF SCOTLAND 203 


listed there until she found something more 
to her liking; the two girls could go or not, 
just as they pleased. 

Naturally they pleased,” and followed 
her out of the hotel without waiting for break- 
fast. They stopped at a quiet little restaurant 
near by where they sipped their coffee and 
ate their rolls in peace and cleanliness. Then 
they started out and finally found a private 
hotel, the Roxburgh, which was ideal in every 
way. Arrangements were soon made for 
their stay there, with the understanding that 
they should come immediately and their 
trunks would be sent the following day. 

They returned to the hotel and packed the 
few things they had taken out of their suit- 
cases and went down to the desk to pay their 
bill. Very calmly they listened to the sar- 
castic remarks of the clerk as he commented 
upon their departure but they said nothing, 
though they were sorely tempted to reply 
when as they were leaving they heard him re- 
mark to another clerk lounging near, Ameri- 
cans, you might know. Never satisfied with 


204 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


anything. All Tve got to say is that I hope 
they’ll find things worse at the next place they 
stop.” 

But his wish was not to be fulfilled for 
their new hotel was all that could be desired 
and they enjoyed every minute of their stay 
there. 

Monday morning early they went to the 
Bank of Scotland where their letters were to 
be forwarded from London and to her great 
delight Jean found her American letters which 
had been sent up from Italy. With them 
came a letter from the other Jean Cabot, who 
expressed her regret that the letters had been 
sent to the wrong girl. She was greatly sur- 
prised and interested that she should have a 
namesake and hoped that they might become 
friends. She said that she was to spend the 
summer touring with a Cook’s party and 
would return to the United States in Septem- 
ber and continue her college course at Vassar, 
where she would enter upon her senior year. 
She hoped Jean would write to her during the 
summer and perhaps plan a meeting in the fall,^ 
if not sooner. Jean was delighted and prom- 


THE HEART OF SCOTLAND 205 


ised herself that she would write at the very 
first opportunity. 

It took most of the morning to read her 
letters for there were far more than she had 
expected, so they did not begin their sight- 
seeing until after luncheon, but sat in the 
pleasant gardens on Princes Street, where is 
to be had such a splendid view of this city so 
admirably fitted by nature to be the capital of 
Scotland. Above them, on a bold rock, stood 
the Castle, the ancient seat of Scottish kings, 
stern and forbidding in aspect, like a guardian 
of all that lay beneath it. Just ahead of them 
the Scott monument, away in the distance 
Arthur’s Seat, and in the other direction, 
Calton Hill. In front of them was Princes 
Street with its large, attractive shops, wide, 
well-kept pavements and a steady stream of 
well-dressed, happy people. Although the 
city has its slums and its poor, like all great 
cities, there was no indication of it that morn- 
ing as it lay smiling in the warm August sun. 

Early that afternoon they started for their 
visit to the Castle. After walking up a long, 
winding path they entered the castle grounds 


2o6 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


by a drawbridge and crossing the old moat 
passed under a portcullis and followed the 
main road to the highest part of the enclosure. 
Here they paused to get their breath and then 
to get the magnificent view of the city below 
them and the Firth of Forth in the distance. 
They could not have had a clearer day, and 
for sixpence an old guide in his broad Scotch 
dialect, hardly intelligible, pointed out to them 
towers, monuments, castles, churches, and the 
harbor, and they began to realize the extent 
of the city and its surroundings. As the 
castle is garrisoned at the present day the sol- 
diers in their kilts and plaids patrolled back 
and forth, and one almost listened for the 
stirring melodies of the bagpipes. 

Entering the Castle itself they went first to 
the Crown-Room, where is kept the Scottish 
regalia, and then to Queen Mary's Room, 
hardly larger than a modern closet, where the 
unhappy queen passed so many lonely hours 
and shed so many bitter tears. One can 
hardly believe that here was born James I of 
England, and that from the one small window 
in the room the young child, then only a few 


THE HEART OF SCOTLAND 207 


weeks old, was lowered at night in a basket 
to the ground that he might be carried by 
friends of his mother to gray Stirling Castle, 
thirty-five miles away, to be christened a 
Catholic, in the hope that he would ever be 
loyal to that faith. From that window they 
got their first view of Holy rood Palace, which 
lies at the foot of the Castle and the quaint 
old streets which lead to it where once the 
lords and ladies of high degree walked or 
were driven, and where now the squalid chil- 
dren of the poor play in the narrow closes or 
muddy gutters, oblivious of all the grandeur 
and romance of the past. Reluctantly leaving 
this little room they passed into the Old 
Parliament Hall and St. Margaret’s Chapel, 
and then out again into some of the soldiers’ 
quarters. They could easily have spent the 
whole afternoon there had not Holy rood 
beckoned to them with more associations of 
Queen Mary, that fascinatingly beautiful but 
unfortunate woman. 

Their first stop as they descended the hill 
was at St. Giles Church, the oldest one in 
Edinburgh, probably built in the 12th century, 


2o8 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


which contains, among other memorials, a 
beautiful bronze one to Robert Louis Steven- 
son by St. Gaudens. Just outside in the 
pavement is a figure of a heart, marking the 
sight of the Old Tolbooth, or city prison, 
which is known as the Heart of Midlothian.” 
To the south of the church is Parliament 
Square, which formerly was the church-yard, 
containing a stone marking the grave of John 
Knox. At one side is Parliament House, 
once the place of meeting of the Scottish 
Parliament, but now the seat of the Supreme 
Law Courts of Scotland. 

As the three ” left the John. Knox house 
and entered the Canongate, the- slum district 
of the city, their attention was suddenly drawn 
to a noisy crowd of people coming up the 
street toward them. As they approached 
nearer they could see that an old man was 
fighting a woman of about thirty or forty 
years of age. His hair was gray and thin 
and unkempt and blood streamed down his 
angry face upon his ragged clothing. The 
woman had a wild and frightened look, one 
eye was blackened by a recent blow, and she 


THE HEART OF SCOTLAND 209 


had a long cut on one cheek. Her waist was 
literally torn from her body and she staggered 
under the constant blows the man rained upon 
her. Evidently both had been drinking and 
were beside themselves with rage. Every 
few moments the woman would jump at her 
pursuer and try to clutch his neck, but it was 
of no avail, for, in spite of his age, he was 
the stronger of the two and finally got her 
down on the hard pavement and was about 
to step upon her when she uttered such a 
piercing cry that a young fellow in the crowd, 
perhaps her son, rushed forward and pulled 
the old man away. Shouts of protest and dis- 
appointment instantly arose from the low, 
jeering crowd that followed close at the heels 
of the fight, and from the grinning spectators 
in all the windows, while cries of, ‘‘ Go it, 
Mac. Kill her. Away with the boy,’' rang 
out everywhere. 

By this time ‘^the three” were very near 
to the disorderly crowd and already several 
tattered youngsters on the outskirts were be- 
ginning to look askance at the well-dressed 
strangers and their prosperous-looking pocket- 


210 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


books. They were frightened, for they could 
see, as they looked up and down the street, 
that they were practically at the mercy of 
these people who were in a fair way to do 
anything. Finally, as one boy, more daring 
than the rest, approached Jean and began mak- 
ing faces at her she turned abruptly round 
and whispered, Isn’t this dreadful ? What 
shall we do? Can’t we go back and get out 
of their way? Oh, if some one would only 
come down this way that we could ask to 
walk with us down this awful street! I wish 
we never had come.” 

Elizabeth, who had been watching in all 
directions, suddenly caught sight of a man 
coming toward them who surely looked re- 
spectable, and she said she was going to run 
back as quickly as she could and ask him to 
let them walk with him. Miss Hooper sug- 
gested that they wait in the shadow of a door- 
way until he was about to pass them and then 
she would speak to him and explain the situa- 
tion. What was their surprise when the man 
was opposite them to discover that it was no 
other than Mr. Atherton. They could hardly 



What was their surprise to discover that it was no other 
THAN Mr. Atherton. — Page 210, 



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THE HEART OF SCOTLAND 21 1 

believe their eyes and declared that a miracle 
had saved their lives. 

After he had led them by the still fighting 
man and woman Jean exclaimed, “ But tell 
us, Mr. Atherton, what are you doing in Edin- 
burgh? We thought you were in Paris.” 

‘‘ Well,” he replied, I finished the business 
in Paris much sooner than I expected and had 
a few days before my time was up, so I de^ 
cided to sell my ticket and sail from Glasgow 
and spend a few days in Edinburgh. You 
see, my mother’s people were Scotch and lived 
here, so she would never forgive me if she 
found out I had been so near her mother’s 
old home and did not visit it. I’ve just been 
through the Castle hurriedly and am on my 
way to Holy rood, and judge you are, too. 
I’m delighted we can go together, for it’s so 
much pleasanter to go sight-seeing with 
friends.” 

‘‘ Pleasanter it surely is,” said Jean, “ but 
I doubt if anything I see to-day will be pleas- 
ant, for I simply cannot get the thought of 
that awful street fight out of my mind. I 
shall see that desperate woman’s face for a 


212 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


long time. It’s the first time I’ve ever seen 
an intoxicated woman, and I hope I’ll never 
see another.” 

“ This is a dangerous locality for women, 
and you were running a risk to walk down it 
alone. Just up above here I saw a saloon- 
keeper throw a young woman out of his 
saloon. But let’s not talk of those things any 
more. We’ll leave all this misery behind in 
the Canongate, for here we are at Holy rood.” 

Yes,” said Elizabeth, “ but we’re going 
into the presence of Mary, Queen of Scots, 
again, and thoughts of her are not of the 
cheeriest nature.” 

True enough,” said Mr. Atherton as they 
entered the Palace, which, in the 12 th century 
was the site of Holyrood Abbey, but later be- 
came the residence of the Scottish kings. 
They spent most time in the rooms of Mary, 
which have been kept as nearly like what they 
were in her lifetime as possible. On the wall 
of her chamber hangs a small Venetian mirror 
which,’ if it could speak, might tell tales of the 
proud beauty who took many a last glimpse 
into its shining surface before she went to 


THE HEART OF SCOTLAND 213 

meet her lover. In the vestibule of the audi- 
ence-chamber is a brass plate on the floor that 
indicates where this same lover, Rizzio, was 
murdered. 

Oh, Fm tired of all this murder and 
bloodshed and gloom,’’ said Elizabeth, ** I 
want something happy and bright. I don’t be- 
lieve I want to see another castle all summer 
if they’re like these last we’ve been visiting. 
Don’t you know something to do that’s pleas- 
ant, Mr. Atherton ? ” 

“ Well,” he answered, I have planned to 
spend to-morrow morning climbing ^ Arthur’s 
Seat ’ and the afternoon at Newhaven, a little 
Scandinavian fishing village three or four 
miles out of the city. If you have made no 
plans for the day I’d be delighted to have you 
join me.” 

“ We’ll accept with pleasure. I’m sure,” 
said Elizabeth, if you’ll promise to keep us 
in a good happy frame of mind.” And then 
they left Old City behind them and returned 
to their hotel, Mr. Atherton accompanying 
them for dinner. 

The next day it rained with a vengeance, as 


214 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


it can rain only in Edinburgh, and although 
one soon gets accustomed to continual showers 
and misty mornings and does not allow them 
to interfere with general sight-seeing, steady 
downpours are not propitious for climbing 
hills and visiting fishing villages. So their 
plans had to be given up in spite of the fact 
that it was Mr. Atherton’s last day in the city, 
for he was obliged to start early the next 
morning for Glasgow. He telephoned them 
from his hotel that he would spend the after- 
noon with them in the Art Galleries if they 
wished to visit them and then he invited them 
for tea and a musical evening at the home of 
one of his cousins. He assured them that 
they would meet some charming people, 
among others some Americans who were 
guests there. 

They promptly accepted the invitation and 
not daunted by the rain went out for a morn- 
ing’s shopping on Princes Street. They had 
been told that they could buy gloves here bet- 
ter and cheaper than anywhere else, so they 
first sought the small glove-shops and laid in 
a goodly store. THen plaids interested them. 


THE HEART OF SCOTLAND 215 


and they looked at ribbons, scarfs, sashes, 
silks, dress goods, and steamer rugs, but 
finally purchased only a few ribbons and one 
steamer rug which Jean wanted for her couch 
at college. As they were leaving one of the 
large department stores a long, plaid Inverness 
coat in a side window caught Jean’s eye and 
she declared it would be just the thing for 
them to wear over their suits on the coaching 
trips they were to take through the Trossachs 
and in Ireland. So nothing would do but she 
must buy a dark green plaid one for herself 
and a dark blue plaid for Elizabeth and she 
insisted upon their dedicating them that very 
morning by wearing them home over their 
rubber rain-coats. 

On the way back to the hotel, Jean saw 
the sign of a hairdresser’s establishment above 
the restaurant where they had eaten Sun- 
day morning, and she maintained that it was 
just the kind of a morning for a shampoo, 
saying that if she had it done then, it would 
save her the trouble of doing it herself some 
pleasant day when she might want to do some- 
thing else. As neither of the other two 


2i6 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


wished to avail themselves of the same op- 
portunity they left her at the entrance of the 
shop after she had convinced them that she 
did not mind going in alone or walking the 
short distance back to the hotel without them. 

But when she opened the door of the room 
devoted by R. Falkirk to the gentle art of 
hairdressing, to her great astonishment she 
saw only men standing near the chairs and 
tables where she had expected to see young 
women, and then she wished she had allowed 
Elizabeth to accompany her. For a moment 
she decided that she had made a mistake and 
she racked her brain for the most graceful 
way of withdrawing. But upon being greeted 
by a most gracious gentleman who asked her 
if she would like a shampoo or a “ wave ” her 
courage returned and she replied that she had 
come for a shampoo. 

After she had taken her place behind a 
high screen and operations began, other cus- 
tomers came in and she soon found out that 
all the hairdressers in the city were men, the 
women not yet having been admitted into that 
profession. While her hair was drying she 


THE HEART OF SCOTLAND 217 

entered into quite a lengthy conversation with 
the hairdresser, who soon discovered that she 
was an American. When she told him that 
she went to college near Boston he was de- 
lighted, for he said his oldest brother had left 
home when very young and had gone to the 
United States. Very recently they had heard 
that he had bought out a small business in 
Boston and was doing well. He had not seen 
him for twenty years and asked Jean on her 
return to go in and visit his shop and carry 
a message to him. Jean promised, and when 
he gave her the address out of a little worn 
note-book in his pocket she could hardly be- 
lieve her own eyes for it was the very place 
that her cousin. Nan Maitlandt, had taken her 
to when she first needed a shampoo and she 
had been there ever since. The coincidence 
pleased them both, and Jean left the shop con- 
vinced that, after all, the world is a very small 
place. 

Although it continued to rain as hard in the 
afternoon as it had in the morning, Mr. Ather- 
ton called for them shortly after two o^clock 
and they spent several hours together in the 


2i8 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


Art Galleries before they took a tram which 
passed his cousin, Mrs. Stronend’s house. On 
their arrival she came to the door to meet 
them and greeted them so cordially that they 
felt at home with her immediately and enjoyed 
the bounteous meal, called tea, which she had 
prepared for them. In the evening other 
guests began to arrive and soon the large 
rooms were completely filled. One of her 
house guests, Mrs. Menteith, a Maryland girl 
who had married a young Edinburgh barrister, 
was to sing from some of the operas, accom- 
panied by her younger sister who had spent 
the preceding winter studying the piano in 
Germany. It was delightful music and the 
little reception afterwards quite as delightful 
and gave “ the three ” an unexpected opportu- 
nity to meet other people than tourists. 

They lingered a little after the departure of 
the other guests and the hour was so late and 
the storm so furious that Mrs. Stronend in- 
sisted that they should all spend the night 
there. When Mr. Atherton pleaded that he 
must take an early morning train for Glasgow, 
his cousin promised if he would stay they 


THE HEART OF SCOTLAND 219 

would all arise early and she would send him 
to his hotel in her carriage. So he was pre- 
vailed upon, and they all spent the night there 
and left very early in the morning. 

“ The three ” went to the station to see Mr. 
Atherton off and they returned to their hotel 
to change their best gowns, which they had 
worn the evening before, for more comforta- 
ble ones in which to enjoy a day out of doors. 
They took a tram and visited the village of 
Newhaven in which Mr. Atherton had inter- 
ested them. Sure enough, they found a little 
isolated settlement of Scandinavian fisher- 
folk living exactly as they might have done 
on their own peninsula. The women were 
large and strongly built and were dressed in 
short woolen skirts reaching only to their 
knees, with coarse cotton blouses, covered 
sometimes with a highly colored girdle. 
They carried heavy baskets of fish upon their 
heads and thought nothing of walking back 
and forth to Edinburgh with them. The men, 
for the most part, lounged on the beach or 
near their humble shacks mending their nets 
or swapping stories of the last catch. A 


220 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


strong wind blowing from off the water car- 
ried to the sensitive nostrils of the three,” 
quite unused to such localities, such an un- 
pleasant odor of drying fish that they were 
not reluctant to return to the city. 

In the afternoon they hired a carriage and 
drove through the Treeless King’s Park to the 
foot of Arthur’s Seat and from there began 
the ascent after making the driver promise to 
wait there until their return. It was very 
windy on the hill and got worse and worse the 
higher they went, but finally, Jn spite of diffi- 
culties, they reached the top and the view they 
obtained more than repaid them for their ef- 
forts. Jean suggested that they roll back 
down the hill, but her suggestion was not sec- 
onded by the others and they descended as 
they had come, except at a much more rapid 
rate. When they reached the carriage it was 
much earlier than they expected so they gave 
the driver orders to spend the rest of the 
afternoon taking them where he considered 
were the most beautiful drives. 

On their return to the hotel they agreed 
that they had made the most of their stay in 


THE HEART OF SCOTLAND 221 


Edinburgh and had seen as much as the 
average visitor. So they decided that they 
would pack up on the morrow and leave for 
their trip through the Trossachs. 


CHAPTER X 


INTO LOCH KATRINE, AND FURTHER 
DEVELOPMENTS 

S ENDING their trunks ahead and carry- 
ing their suit-cases, Inverness coats 
and umbrellas, which they declared 
were indispensable in Scotland, they took an 
accommodation train from Edinburgh in order 
that they might stop a few hours at Stirling 
Castle, that fortress on a lofty height resem- 
bling the Castle Rock of Edinburgh. 

They decided before they left the train that 
for once they would dispense with a guide, for 
they were tired of the continual tipping, and 
then, too, they had just about reached the con- 
clusion that guides seldom told them anything 
they did not already know, after reading their 
Baedekers and guide-books. So with the 
bright red books under their arms they 
marched boldly through the array of guides 


222 


INTO LOCH KATRINE 


223 


that waited at the outer gates and refused all 
the generous offers that were made to them. 
It was very evident that not only surprise but 
disappointment reigned as the guides saw “ the 
three ” disappear. But on their return they 
lined up below the gates and muttered in per- 
fectly audible tones, “ Americans, with their 
everlasting Baedekers. Too mean to pay for 
a guide. Curses on ’em.’’ 

Jean was about to go back and empty the 
contents of her purse at their feet, but Miss 
Hooper restrained her in time to prevent her 
making a scene. ‘‘ I’d like to show some of 
these impudent old skinflints what Americans 
really are worth. They seem to think we’ll 
listen to all the insults in the world. It’s a 
different matter when we’re willing to give 
them our money, then they’ll bow and scrape 
all right. I’m sure we don’t treat visitors to 
our country like that.” 

They left the train at Aberfoyle, where a 
coach was waiting to convey passengers 
through the Trossachs; the word Trossachs ” 
means literally, bristling country,” and is 
applied to a beautifully wooded and romantic 


224 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

valley between lofty peaks which loom up, as 
far as the eye can reach. The coach stopped 
half an hour at the Trossachs Hotel situated 
on the bank of Loch Achray and the three 
were so delighted with its beautiful location 
and the scenery in its immediate vicinity, de- 
scribed so wonderfully in Scott’s Lady of 
the Lake,” that they decided to spend a night 
there and see a sunrise over Ben Venue. 

They secured accommodations at the hotel 
and after lunch walked along the winding 
road by Loch Katrine, past Ellen’s Isle, shin- 
ing in the light of the afternoon sun. Steep 
cliffs rose abruptly from the edge of the lake, 
and here and there between them waved the 
bright green foliage of the birch. Not a 
habitation in sight, nothing but wild crags and 
mysterious paths and passes, fitting abodes of 
deer and other forest animals. There was 
not a person to be seen, so sitting down on a 
large rock by the side of the road they read 
aloud and recited from the poem which this 
same locality had inspired in Scott. So in- 
terested did they become and so filled with the 
spirit of the poem and the environment that 


INTO LOCH KATRINE 225 

not one of them would have been surprised to 
see Ellen or James Fitz- James appear before 
them in the flesh. 

At dinner that evening they found them- 
selves seated at a small table with two other 
guests, a young man and woman whom they 
first thought to be brother and sister but later 
decided to be bride and groom on their honey- 
moon. Try as they would, they could not get 
them to enter into the conversation, and as a 
result, the meal was very uncomfortable, for 
whenever the three ” began to enthuse over 
something they had seen or wanted to see, the 
two strangers stared blankly and then smiled 
at each other very sweetly. When they left 
the table and allowed our friends to enjoy 
their coffee together, Jean declared that they 
were the snippiest people she had ever seen 
and suggested that they ask for different seats 
at the breakfast table next morning. Eliza- 
beth objected to this, for she said she enjoyed 
watching them and thought perhaps later they 
would thaw out a little and condescend to talk 
with them. 

After dinner the young son of the hotel- 


226 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


keeper invited them for a row upon the tiny 
lake in order to watch the sunset. They had 
not been upon the water many minutes before 
it began to grow very cold and they shivered 
as though it were a fall evening. Their room 
was in one of the towers and although it af- 
forded a wonderful view it also afforded 
much air and they piled on all the bedclothes 
they could find and on top of these their heavy 
coats. They had gone to bed early in order 
that they might be up in time to see the sun 
rise, and then, too, before breakfast they 
wanted to climb a steep hill back of the hotel. 
Elizabeth could always be depended upon to 
awaken early when, as she said, she put her 
mind upon it and her head upon her watch, 
so she was to arouse the others about five in 
the morning. 

When she arose quietly at the time agreed 
upon, she crept to the nearest window and 
looked out. To her dismay it was dark and 
cold and raining again fully as hard as it had 
in Edinburgh the day they had planned to 
spend with Mr. Atherton. She had decided 
to go back to bed so quietly that she would 


INTO LOCH KATRINE 227 

not disturb the others, but as luck would have 
it, she stumbled over a chair half-way between 
the window and her bed and made such a 
racket that the others sat up with a start, ex- 
pecting, for a second, that they were about to 
be murdered in their beds. When Elizabeth 
explained that it was five o’clock but there 
would be no sunrise to be seen that morning 
on account of the heavy rain Miss Hooper 
said that they would not attempt to sail down 
the lake that day but would wait for fair 
weather, so she suggested that they take one 
of the rest mornings ” they had promised 
themselves before they started, but which as 
yet had not materialized, and stay in bed as 
long as they cared to sleep or rest. The 
others agreed and it was not until nearly 
eleven o’clock that they appeared in the big 
living-room downstairs, after having had a 
light breakfast in their room. 

A big cheery fire crackled in the fireplace, 
and drawing up comfortable chairs before it 
they continued their reading of the Lady of 
the Lake.” There were a few other people 
who gradually drifted into the room and. 


228 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


drawn by the fire and the reading, joined 
them. But their table-companions of the 
evening before did not appear nor were they 
visible at the early luncheon, so ‘‘ the three 
concluded that they had departed that morn- 
ing in spite of the rain. 

Very shortly after luncheon it grew lighter, 
and gradually the rain ceased, and although 
the sun did not make its appearance it was not 
such a bad afternoon after all. Miss Hooper 
found an interesting acquaintance in an Eng- 
lish lady who was spending some time at the 
hotel, and was content to remain on the piazza 
chatting with her, while the two girls, in walk- 
ing skirts and sweaters started out for a short 
tramp. 

They followed the road until they came to 
the pier and there to their right they caught 
sight of a path trodden through the thick un- 
derbrush leading away from the main road 
and soon losing itself in the thick birches and 
tangled undergrowth. Its air of mystery ap- 
pealed to them, and they were presently fol- 
lowing it within the cool green shadows of the 
trees, where the leaves still dripped from the 


INTO LOCH KATRINE 


229 


morning rain. It kept close to the margin 
of the lake, now rising, now descending over 
the hard, barren land. At one moment the 
lake was almost lost to view by the thick wood, 
the next, the path would emerge from the 
trees and come so close to the water that the 
tiny waves almost lapped their stout walking- 
shoes. At one of the openings they rested 
and glancing across the expanse of water saw 
the landing, from which they had started, 
directly opposite, showing that they had com- 
pleted the wide circle of the cove which the 
lake made at this point. 

En (want, mes enfants!^^ cried Jean and 
again they set out along the path of adventure 
and exploration. They came soon to a point 
where a gentle rise through a dense growth of 
young birches, and the thick, low foliage, al- 
most hiding the path, made them feel that they 
were drifting into a world of romance, a si- 
lent, mysterious world of little dancing leaves 
and shining white bark. It thrilled them as 
they imagined Malcolm Graeme or Roderick 
Dhu making his breathless way over this same 
silent path, and of the many another before 


230 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


them, who Robin-Hood-like, found a safe re- 
treat in just such endless wild wood. 

Filled with the romance of these thoughts 
they chose, without hesitation, at a point 
where the more traveled path turned inland 
to avoid a huge craggy boulder which came 
straight up out of the lake, a lesser path which 
kept straight on across a dangerous footing 
on the outer face of the giant rock to the level 
ground beyond. Jean, waving an imaginary 
claymore over her shoulder, called out, Fol- 
low me, brave Scots ! ” and with the skill 
and ease born of an outdoor life deftly swung 
herself with the aid of the slight footholds and 
projections, safely across the perilous spot. 
Elizabeth valiantly followed, but Jean’s in- 
stinctive choice of secure holds had never been 
developed with her and, when half-way to 
safety, one foot just missed its mark and she 
became panic-stricken, clutched wildly at the 
face of the rock, hung for one sickening mo- 
ment on the almost perpendicular surface, and 
then with a little shuddering cry dropped the 
four or five feet into the black water of the 
lake. 


INTO LOCH KATRINE 


231 


For a moment Jean was terrified and stood 
as though glued to the spot, then realized 
how serious the situation was, for Elizabeth 
could not swim a stroke, and if anything were 
to be done to save her life, it must be done 
immediately. Looking around her, as though 
for inspiration, she caught sight of a birch 
sapling on the edge of the bank and seizing 
hold of it with both hands and pressing 
against it with all the strength of her body 
she succeeded in bending it down over the 
spot where Elizabeth had disappeared. Then 
as she rose from the water Jean cried out to 
her to grasp it with both hands and hold on 
until she could get some one to help them. 
She feared that Elizabeth would be so fright- 
ened that she would not understand what she 
was asking of her, but, as if in answer to 
Jean’s silent prayer, Elizabeth caught at the 
tree and told Jean she was all right but must 
have help soon for it was so cold there that 
she could not stand it long. 

As Jean let go of the birch it lifted a little 
and she felt a new terror seize her for fear 
Elizabeth’s body would not be heavy enough 


232 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


to keep it down and that she would be obliged 
to let go her hold as it pulled away from her. 
But no, after a second’s wavering, it settled 
back in its former position, and with new 
heart Jean begged Elizabeth to keep up her 
courage a little longer while she ran out to the 
main path for help. Reaching it she looked 
up and down and to her relief she saw coming 
down the path the young man and woman 
who had been their uncongenial table com- 
panions the evening before. Dashing up to 
them she grasped them by the arms and ut- 
tered only the one word, “ Come ! ” Without 
replying, but looking at her in amazement, 
they followed until she led them to the spot 
where they could see Elizabeth, deathly pale, 
still clinging to the birch. 

Quick as a flash the man’s coat and hat were 
off and jumping into the water he swam to the 
girl, unclasped her rigid fingers from the tree 
and holding her head out of the water with 
his right hand, swam about fifteen feet around 
the rock where the path dropped close to the 
surface of the water, and with the help of 
the two girls lifted her up on the bank. 



Quick as a flash the man’s coat and hat were off. — Page, 232 



INTO LOCH KATRINE 233 

By this time Elizabeth’s strength was com- 
pletely exhausted, and her head fell back in 
Jean’s lap as she lost consciousness. They 
chafed her hands and wringing the water 
from her clothes as best they could wrapped 
the young man’s coat around her shoulders. 
After what seemed an eternity she opened her 
eyes and showed signs of returning life. 
Then for the first time Jean realized how 
much they owed to this young gentleman who 
had rescued Elizabeth and she began, in an 
incoherent way, to pour out her thanks. 
These were the first words that had passed 
between them since her single word Come ! ” 
for in such a crisis as this words had been 
superfluous. After a moment or two the 
young lady smiled a little and told Jean, in 
very broken English, that she and her husband 
were French and he did not understand a word 
of English and she but very little. 

This then was the explanation of their at- 
titude the evening before. Jean felt very 
much ashamed of her criticism of them, in 
the light of this explanation and his recent 
bravery. She tried to think of some words 


234 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


in French but everything deserted her except, 
Merci heaucoup, Monsieur” which she re- 
peated over and over until they both began to 
laugh, which was just what was needed to 
break the tension. 

Then came the question of how to get 
Elizabeth back to the hotel. It would be im- 
possible for a conveyance of any kind to come 
up the narrow path so they must at least get 
her to the pier before they could hope for 
help from other sources. Jean and Monsieur 
Beauchamp, for so the young man was called, 
were both strong, and decided that they would 
carry her in an improvised arm-chair for 
short distances with rests between, and then 
later on perhaps she could walk slowly if they 
supported her. They made a start in this 
manner, and although their progress was very 
slow they succeeded in reaching the pier, 
where they placed Elizabeth on a bench and 
leaving her in the care of the other two, Jean 
hurried away to find some kind of a con- 
veyance. 

Fortunately she did not have to go far be- 
fore she met a farmer driving a cart of vege- 


INTO LOCH KATRINE 


235 


tables in the direction of the hotel and hailing 
him she persuaded him to go back to the pier 
with her and carry Elizabeth along with the 
vegetables, to the hotel. There was only room 
on the seat for Elizabeth, so she sat up close 
to the driver, occasionally dropping her head 
upon his shoulder as he drove slowly along, 
his horse apparently being unable to travel 
any other way. The bride and groom and 
Jean walked along by the side of the cart 
and smiled encouragingly at Elizabeth as they 
tried to talk to her. 

Miss Hooper and her newly-made friend, 
as the afternoon waned, left their comfortable 
chairs on the piazza and strolled down the 
road to the lake. Although Miss Hooper 
gave no signs of it and never would have ad- 
mitted it, she was getting a little alarmed at 
the lateness of the hour and the non-appear- 
ance of the two girls. Imagine her consterna- 
tion, when in a bend of the road, she came 
suddenly upon the strange little procession. 
Jean explained briefly that Elizabeth had 
fallen into the water of the lake and Monsieur 
Beauchamp, being near the spot, had helped 


236 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


her out. She purposely omitted all the har- 
rowing details, for she knew it would do no 
good to rehearse them now and alarm Miss 
Hooper, as now that Elizabeth was recovering 
so rapidly from the fright of it all, she hoped 
if she were put directly to bed and kept warm 
she would be all right in the morning. In 
silence she alternately offered up little prayers 
of thankfulness that Elizabeth’s life was saved 
and went over again those awful moments 
when death had seemed so near. She felt 
to blame for it all, as she had been the one 
who proposed taking the dangerous path, and 
she mentally vowed over and over again that 
never again would she propose following any- 
thing but ^'the straight and narrow way.” 

In spite of all she had gone through, when 
Elizabeth was lifted from the cart at the hotel 
steps she seemed in admirable spirits and 
physical condition, but was quite willing to 
be put to bed and swallow all the hot drinks 
and medicine which were given to her. She 
declared she would be herself in the morning 
and ready to sail down the lake as they had 
planned. 


INTO LOCH KATRINE 


237 


Sure enough, she was able and except for 
the lack of color in her face no one would 
have suspected what she experienced the day 
before. Miss Hooper suggested that they 
stay over another day until Elizabeth felt 
stronger but both girls seemed very anxious 
to be away from the region which only yes- 
terday had seemed the most beautiful in the 
world. So Miss Hooper consented, and they 
took the little morning steamer down Loch 
Katrine. They were delighted when they 
found the Beauchamps were to leave at the 
same time and they kept together during the 
rest of the trip. 

If one had observed carefully he might have 
noticed that neither girl had much to say at 
the pier, and both chose places on the steamer 
where they could not see the path they had 
taken the day before. Miss Hooper seemed 
to have divined their feelings, and carefully 
avoided all reference to the matter but ex- 
claimed over the constantly changing beauty 
which presented itself to their wondering eyes 
during the nine-mile sail. 

Reaching the end of the lake at Stronach- 


238 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

lachar, they took a coach for five miles up 
and down barren hills where countless sheep 
grazed contentedly. Arriving at Inversnaid, 
they had a delightful luncheon, and later took 
another steamer for the twenty-five miles down 
Loch Lomond, the largest and most beautiful 
of the lakes. At Balloch, where they were to 
take the train for Glasgow, they reluctantly 
bade good-bye to the Beauchamps, who, in 
spite of the existing difficulties, had proved 
pleasant companions. 

Glasgow did not look at all attractive to 
them and not one of them had the slightest 
desire to remain. The plan had been to 
spend the night there and leave in the morn- 
ing for the English Lakes. As Miss Hooper 
went to the ticket-office to make some inquiries 
about the morning trains she heard a gentle- 
man just ahead of her ask for a week-end 
ticket for Ayr. When she asked concerning 
these she found that one could buy tickets the 
last of the week, good for several days, at 
greatly reduced prices. This fact, together 
with the associations the word, Ayr, had sug- 
gested to her induced her to buy three week- 


INTO LOCH KATRINE 


239 


end tickets to the town, although she intended 
starting the next day, Saturday, for Keswick. 
The girls were always delighted with unex- 
pected trips like this, and entered into them 
heartily. 

Arriving at Ayr, they had no idea where 
they could spend the night so they walked past 
one hotel and not finding it to their liking 
decided to go down some of the neat little 
side streets and make some inquiries. At the 
first three houses at which they stopped they 
were told no boarders were wanted, but at 
the fourth, a delightful old lady offered them 
the one room she had, saying she was not 
in the habit of letting her rooms but she would 
be glad to accommodate them for one night if 
she could. They expected to go out to a res- 
taurant for their supper but the hospitable old 
lady insisted that they should eat with her 
and her son, who was all that was left to her 
of a family of ten. 

In the morning they took a tram to Alloway 
to visit the home of Bobbie Burns. The low 
white cottage has four small rooms, including 
one where at some time the cattle must have 


240 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


been kept, for the stalls are still there. The 
grounds and gardens surrounding the house 
are beautifully kept and contrast sharply with 
the poor interior of the house. A little be- 
yond is the cemetery where the poet’s father 
was buried, and the Auld Alloway Kirk and 
the Burns Monument. Just below this last is 
the Brig o’Doon. The whole neighborhood 
is full of the associations of this lowly poet 
of the heart, but in a quiet, simple way, so 
different from certain other birthplaces and 
shrines which seem fairly to shout their tra- 
ditions in your face. 

When they returned to Ayr they found that 
the dear old Scotch lady had put up a luncheon 
for them, including a generous supply of 
scones and cakes, to eat on the train that 
afternoon, and she seemed fully as sorry to 
have them leave her as they really were to 
go. They reached Glasgow a little before one 
and took an express train for Penrith where 
they changed for Keswick and arrived there 
about six o’clock. 

All the afternoon both Jean and Miss 
Hooper had noticed how much color there 


INTO LOCH KATRINE 


241 


was in Elizabeth’s cheeks and how her eyes 
seemed to have lost their brightness. She had 
very little to say but whenever they asked her 
if she felt badly she replied to the contrary 
and smiled sweetly. But after they arrived at 
their hotel in Keswick and had gone to their 
rooms to prepare for dinner, Elizabeth said 
she didn’t feel very hungry, her head ached 
and her throat was a little sore, so she thought 
she wouldn’t go down to the dining-room if 
they didn’t mind. They knew Elizabeth never 
gave up unless she felt very ill, so they were 
a little worried, but they hoped that a good 
night’s sleep would leave her all right in the 
morning. 

About ten o’clock that night Elizabeth had 
such a fever that Miss Hooper became alarmed 
and went down to the hotel-keeper to ask his 
advice about a doctor. Fortunately there was 
a young London doctor and his wife who had 
arrived the day before, and he would send 
him directly to Elizabeth’s room. After care- 
ful examination the doctor said that she had 
an attack of tonsilitis coming on, but he would 
do everything in his power to break it up. 


242 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


Upon asking if she had been exposed to cold 
or wet recently they told him that she had 
fallen into the water a few days before and 
had been greatly frightened. Undoubtedly 
this was the cause of the trouble, and the ex- 
citement of it all had caused her high fever. 
Miss Hooper and Jean thought it had prob- 
ably been coming on since that day but she 
had warded it off by sheer force of will-power. 
In departing, the doctor advised that Miss 
Hooper take care of the patient, and that Jean 
stay away from her for a few days. He 
promised that he would call in the morning 
and if they needed him again in the night he 
hoped they would not hesitate to call him. 

Jean did not sleep much that night, for she 
was very much worried about Elizabeth’s con- 
dition. She felt as though it were all her 
fault, and perhaps Elizabeth might be dan- 
gerously sick. She wished she might take 
care of her and save Miss Hooper all the care 
and anxiety; she meant to ask in the morning 
if she could take her place. But in the morn- 
ing she found that Elizabeth was a very sick 
girl and Miss Hooper would not listen to her 


INTO LOCH KATRINE 


243 


offers of help, saying if it were necessary she 
would try to hire a trained nurse. So Jean 
was left to herself and a long, long day it 
was. She knew she was in the midst of the 
English Lake region where natural loveliness 
reigns supreme. She knew there were moun- 
tain peaks, peaceful lakes, the homes of Shelley 
and Southey, and the Crosthwaite church to be 
seen within a short distance of the hotel but 
she could not bring herself to visit them alone 
and so she sat most of the day, dejectedly 
alone in the little parlor downstairs trying to 
read, but somehow she could not keep her 
mind on the story, for it would wander up- 
stairs to the sick girl and the teacher of whom 
she had grown so fond. 

Late in the afternoon, the doctor persuaded 
her to walk about the town a little with him 
and his wife and the fresh air and the com- 
pany did her so much good that she came 
back to the hotel in better spirits. After sup- 
per when the doctor came downstairs from a 
visit to Elizabeth's room he reported her more 
comfortable and assured Jean that it would 
only be a matter of a few days before she 


244 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


would be up again. Jean felt so encouraged 
that she took up her book again and sat down 
in the parlor to read a few chapters before 
bedtime. 

She was deep in the midst of a stirring 
chapter ot Scott’s “ Heart of Midlothian ” 
when the hotel-keeper came in and said, ‘‘ Are 
you Miss Jean Cabot?” When Jean replied 
that she was he replied, ‘‘ Well, here’s a cable- 
gram that’s been following you round for 
some time. They’ve just been able to locate 
you.” With a certain fear and hesitation 
generally associated with telegrams and cable- 
grams Jean looked at the paper a moment be- 
fore reading it, but after one hasty glance she 
dropped her book onto the table, tore up the 
stairs, stopped outside Elizabeth’s room and 
knocked gently. When Miss Hooper’s voice 
asked, ''What is it?” Jean replied, Don’t 
scold me for coming, but the doctor said 
Elizabeth was better. Please listen to this: 

“ ‘ Expect me in Ireland in August. Will 
follow your itinerary. 


‘J. R. Cabot.’” 


INTO LOCH KATRINE 


245 


And then without another word Jean hur- 
ried away to her room to think it all over; 
excited at the prospect of seeing her father, 
and happier than she had been for many a 
night. 


CHAPTER XI 


WHAT IT REALLY MEANT TO BE SEASICK 


LTHOUGH Elizabeth’s illness did not 



prove as serious as had at first been 


anticipated, it was not until the fol- 
lowing week that “ the three ” were able to 
leave the little town of Keswick. On account 
of Jean’s cablegram from her father they 
were anxious to get into Ireland, for he might 
already be awaiting them somewhere along 
the proposed itinerary. Because of the un- 
avoidable delay caused by Elizabeth’s attack 
of tonsilitis they felt obliged to cut short their 
stay in the Lake region, so that instead of the 
four or five days they had at first intended to 
spend there they were obliged to be satisfied 
with a day and a night, spending as much time 
as possible at Grasmere, the little town so 
filled with associations of Wordsworth. 

They were sailing down Lake Windermere 


246 


WHAT IT REALLY MEANT 247 


one morning, at the end of which they were to 
take the train for Barrow and there catch the 
boat which crossed the Irish Channel to Belfast, 
and got to talking with the purser of the small 
lake steamer. Not being quite sure of the 
connections they would make. Miss Hooper 
asked him for information. It developed that 
a day-boat and a night-boat were running on 
alternate days and at this time, Monday, they 
would be obliged to take the night-boat. The 
purser was not hesitant in adding that the 
boats were bad enough under any condition, 
but at night the sleeping accommodations were 
very poor, and he advised them to wait until 
they could get a day-boat. They were not 
particularly pleased with the prospect of spend- 
ing an evening in Barrow, which, so far as 
they knew, had nothing of interest to stran- 
gers; but still the purser’s remarks made them 
hesitate about the night-boat. 

Just a few minutes before they reached 
Barrow, as the train slowed down and almost 
stopped for a passing express, Jean’s attention 
was caught by a huge signboard close to the 
track announcing daily excursions from Bar- 


248 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


row to the Isle of Man. An alluring picture 
of a white sandy beach and swimmers sport- 
ing in the surf emphasized the attractions of 
the place and appealed strongly to Jean's love 
of surf-bathing. She said nothing for a few 
moments for she was thinking things over, but 
as the train started again she asked Miss 
Hooper, “ Do you know anything about a place 
called the Isle of Man? I have never heard 
of it.” 

“ Yes,” replied Miss Hooper, “ I know that 
there is such a place, but know little more 
about it than that it is a very delightful sum- 
mer resort for people all over the British Isles. 
What made you ask about it ? ” 

‘‘ I was looking out of the window a few 
moments ago and saw an attractive sign an- 
nouncing excursions there and I thought if it 
were as attractive as the picture on the sign 
that I should like to go there. Why couldn't 
we spend the afternoon on the water instead 
of staying in Barrow and then take the steamer 
for Belfast to-morrow? I’ve never heard any 
one say anything about the place, and I'd like, 
for a change, to go somewhere that none of 


WHAT IT REALLY MEANT 249 


our friends have visited, for it will be much 
more interesting to tell them something we did 
that they knew nothing about than to com- 
pare notes on London and Chester and all the 
other places to which everybody goes. I for 
one vote that we take this little side-trip.’’ 

When Elizabeth added her approval Miss 
Hooper declared that the vote was unanimous 
and promised to ask the guard at the station 
for information, and if it were possible they 
would take the afternoon boat for Douglas, 
the capital and landing-place of the Isle. At 
Barrow they found that they could just catch 
a steamer at the wharf adjoining the station 
and could spend the night at Douglas and take 
a morning boat there for Belfast without re- 
tracing their steps. This seemed most propi- 
tious, for they all had secretly dreaded the 
trip from Barrow at night and still disliked the 
idea of losing valuable time by waiting over 
a whole day without accomplishing anything. 
So Miss Hooper hurried to buy some tickets, 
and the girls to the restaurant to buy some 
sandwiches and fruit, as there would not be 
time for a regular lunch. 


250 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

When they boarded the small boat their 
enthusiasm increased for everything pointed to 
a delightful afternoon. There was not a cloud 
in the sky, the sun never shone brighter, and 
the water was clear and blue. There were not 
enough passengers to make it uncomfortable, 
and procuring two deck-chairs and a camp- 
stool the three ” settled themselves close to 
the rail in order that they might enjoy to the 
utmost the beauty of the sail and the fresh 
breezes from the water. For some unaccount- 
able reason the boat was a long time in start- 
ing, so the girls took this time to eat their 
lunch. Jean was so hungry that she ate a 
large amount of the fruit, although the others 
warned her it was rather risky to indulge in 
that way when she was to spend several hours 
on the water. 

“ Why, you donH suppose I could be sea- 
sick on this placid water, do you? said Jean. 
‘‘ It's just like a mill-pond. If I can cross the 
Atlantic without experiencing that delightful 
sensation I guess a little sail of three hours 
doesn’t frighten me. Do you people realize 
that I’ve never been seasick in my life? ” 


WHAT IT REALLY MEANT 251 

“ Yes,” answered Miss Hooper with a smile, 
“ but there’s always a first time, though I hope 
it won’t be soon, Jean. Still, I advise you not 
to eat any more of those apples. They’re de- 
licious, I know, but they’ll be just as good to- 
night or to-morrow morning.” 

It began to grow very hot sitting there in 
the sun, and they grew impatient as they 
waited; they feared to get up and walk about 
lest other passengers, realizing the desirability 
of their seats, should occupy them in their 
absence. Finally with an astonishingly loud 
whistle for such a small boat they were off 
and soon had left behind them the bustling 
little wharf. Although the sky was as clear, 
the sun as bright, and the water as blue as when 
they first stepped upon the little boat it did not 
take the three ” half an hour to realize that 
they were not going to enjoy the trip as much 
as they had anticipated. In the first place they 
did not like the motion of the boat; it was not 
steady like the ocean liner on which they had 
crossed, or the little lake steamer, but it bobbed 
up and down on the waves like an egg-shell 
and the farther away from the wharf it went. 


252 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


the more it bobbed, for the waves continued to 
increase in size. Each one of the three had 
secretly resolved to make the best of the sail, 
but there was a serious question in their minds 
as to how long they could stand this ever-in- 
creasing motion. 

Miss Hooper was pretending to read a 
newspaper she had bought at the station, 
Elizabeth was deep in her Baedeker, and Jean 
was casting last longing glimpses at the re- 
ceding shore line. They said little and an- 
swered each other’s questions mostly in 
monosyllables. Suddenly Jean arose and 
made a dash for the stern of the boat about 
fifteen feet away and for the first time in her 
life realized what the sensation of being sea- 
sick was like. She did not attempt to return 
to her former seat but sat close up to the rail 
to be ready for an emergency, and then, too, 
she hardly dared move for fear of a second 
attack. She did not feel the need of conver- 
sation but rather preferred to be by herself. 
She had heard it said once that if one were 
seasick the best thing to do was to remain out 
in the fresh air, so she made up her mind to 


WHAT IT REALLY MEANT 253 


stay there, regardless of what happened, until 
they landed at Douglas. 

The sun gradually disappeared; it grew 
cooler and a little misty, and she wrapped her 
heavy coat round her and waited for the next 
attack. Once as she looked in Elizabeth’s di- 
rection she saw her stagger across the deck 
and grasping the hand-rail, disappear down 
the companion-way in the direction of the 
cabin. Miss Hooper sat in her chair for some 
time afterward, but finally coming over to 
where Jean sat asked her if there was any- 
thing she could do for her before she went 
to the cabin to lie down. Jean shook her head 
and pushed her away, sympathizing out of 
the depths of her own experience with her 
but not daring to trust herself to words. 

Gradually the small deck was cleared of 
people, for it had begun to rain, but nothing 
could have moved Jean from her chosen seat 
and although the water ran down from her 
hat, veil and coat and she felt herself getting 
thoroughly wet through she continued to sit 
there hoping for relief. The three hours’ sail 
dragged out into five, for it seemed to get 


254 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 

harder and harder for the little boat to 
make any headway against the waves. Jean 
strained her eyes to discover the shore ahead 
of her, but it seemed as though it would never 
come in sight. She had just about made up 
her mind that they would have to spend the 
night on this horrible boat when a steward 
came over to her with a message from Miss 
Hooper to the effect that they would land 
in about fifteen minutes and for her to come 
below as soon as she could. Welcome as the 
news was, Jean felt she could not attempt go- 
ing below until the boat actually stopped, so 
she asked the steward to reply to Miss Hooper 
that she would go down as soon as they reached 
the wharf. So she waited the fifteen minutes 
alone and afterward declared they were the 
longest and most miserable fifteen minutes she 
ever endured. 

But at last the boat did stop, and a pale, 
dejected, rain-soaked girl joined the two be- 
low and waited for an opportunity to leave 
the boat. The stewardess had recommended 
to Miss Hooper what she considered an ex- 


WHAT IT REALLY MEANT 255 


cellent boarding-house and she decided to 
drive there at once and put herself and the 
exhausted girls to bed. Hardly had they 
stepped on the Avharf before a horde of 
ragged, unkempt-looking porters rushed at 
them and attempted to seize their bags to carry 
them off the wharf. There was almost a fight 
before Miss Hooper could choose the least 
desperate-appearing of them all and allow 
him to carry the bags. Beyond the wharf it 
was the same, a multitude of cab-drivers 
waited to convey them to their destination. 
Miss Hooper had no idea of the distance to 
their boarding-house and was too anxious to 
get there to have any bickering over the 
financial agreement with the man, so she chose 
the nearest cab and hurried the girls in and 
gave the driver the address. 

It seemed as though they had hardly set- 
tled themselves comfortably before the cab 
stopped at a well-enough-looking stone house 
and the man informed them that this was 
their stopping-place. When they and their 
baggage were out Miss Hooper asked how 


256 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


much it would be and could scarcely believe 
her ears when she heard the man reply. 
Crown, miss/’ 

Crown,” she repeated, “ what do you 
mean? We haven’t ridden five minutes, it 
isn’t worth half a crown.” 

That’s the regular price, ma’am, and be- 
sides it’s raining and we always gets more 
when it rains.” 

“ It’s an imposition, sir,” said Miss Hooper, 
and I shall not pay it. Here is a half- 
crown, which you can take or not, just as 
you please.” 

The man began to swear at her with such 
oaths as she had never before heard and glared 
at her in such a terrifying manner that Jean 
opened her purse and giving him another half- 
crown said, Oh, never mind. Miss Hooper, 
let him take this, please, only let’s get into 
the house as soon as possible.” And as he 
left them and jumped upon the seat with a 
diabolical grin they knew they had been im- 
posed upon again but they were glad to be 
out of his power and resolved that they would 
not use another cab during their stay there. 


WHAT IT REALLY MEANT 257 

A pleasant-appearing woman met them at 
the door and after satisfactory arrangements 
were made she led them to their room. They 
were so happy to find themselves in a room 
of any kind whatsoever that they did not com- 
plain of the narrow dingy back room where 
they were taken. A glance from the one win- 
dow showed them that their only outlook was 
on adjoining tall stone dwelling-houses with 
a small court between. Their landlady offered 
to bring up their supper, but all they asked for 
was toast and tea, which she speedily brought. 

Jean declared she could eat nothing but de- 
cided to take a hot bath and get into bed. 
Finally, after a long search, she located the 
bath-room, but found to her dismay that the 
warm water would not run and even though 
it could have done so, the bath-tub was in 
worse condition even than the one in Edin- 
burgh, and she would not have bathed in it, 
if she had been assured it would save her 
life. So there was nothing to do but go to 
bed and trust that nothing worse than a cold 
would result from the exposure of the after- 
noon. She and Elizabeth got into the large 


258 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


bed and Miss Hooper took the couch near 
them, which was anything but soft and downy, 
as couches are expected to be. However it 
was a place to lay her aching head and body 
and that was all that counted just then. 

There is doubt if any of them slept very 
soundly through the entire night, but very 
early in the morning they arose and seemed 
in wonderfully good condition under the cir- 
cumstances. Suppose we go down and see 
the wonderful beach a few minutes before 
breakfast,” said Miss Hooper. 

“ Oh, I don’t care anything about it,” said 
Jean. “ I know I proposed this little side 
pleasure-trip. Miss Hooper, but it’s been the 
most awful experience I’ve ever had in that 
line. I don’t want to stay here a moment 
longer than is absolutely necessary. Don’t 
mention beach or anything else to me. All I 
want is to know when the first boat leaves 
and I’m ready to start. No one knows how 
I dread sailing again, but I want to have it 
over with as soon as possible. Nothing on 
earth could persuade me to linger here. And 
such a house! What do you suppose we’ve 


WHAT IT REALLY MEANT 259 

got into? Your friend, the stewardess, must 
have a queer idea of good places if this is 
her idea of one. It isn't your fault. Miss 
Hooper, and I don’t want to seem to be com- 
plaining but did you ever see anything like 
it?” 

“ No,” said Miss Hooper, “ and I’m just 
as anxious to leave as you are. But I thought 
you might like to stay after we had moved 
to another house and found how beautiful a 
beach and promenade there was.” 

“I’m perfectly willing to go,” said Jean; 
“ it may be the most beautiful beach in the 
world, but I’ve lost all my interest in it now 
and nothing you could offer me in the way 
of inducements could make me have any de- 
sire to stay another day.” 

So after packing their suit-cases they went 
down to breakfast and found they could take 
a boat in about an hour which would go di- 
rectly to Belfast. They did not enjoy this 
meal much better than the one of the night 
before and they ate sparingly and cautiously 
and were soon ready to start. They had posi- 
tively made up their minds to have nothing to 


26 o jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


do with cabs or cab-drivers and defiantly- 
scorned every offer of help that was made to 
them. Hailing a passing tram they boarded 
it and rode to the wharf, which was as far 
as the tram went, then, each one carrying a 
case, and with heads high in the air, although 
their backs and arms ached from the weight 
of their burden, they refused all offers of help 
from the multitude of porters which swarmed 
the wharf even at this early hour, and finally 
managed to stagger upon the boat and deposit 
their cases. 

It looked so pleasant in the bright morning 
sunlight that Jean laughed at Miss Hooper's 
suggestion to avoid another attack of seasick- 
ness by lying down in the stateroom, and 
declared her seasick days were a thing of the 
past and she was really going to enjoy this 
sail, as it was a much larger boat and the 
water looked as smooth as a mill-pond. Miss 
Hooper, however, preferred to remain in the 
cabin and when the boat started she left the 
girls to enjoy themselves on deck. 

As they left the wharf behind them, they 
realized for the first time the rugged beauty 


WHAT IT REALLY MEANT 261 


of the town and its wonderfully smooth white 
beach dotted with the little portable bath- 
houses, so peculiar to the place, and both ad- 
mitted that under more favorable circum- 
stances a stay there might be enjoyable. 
After the excitement of departure subsided, 
it began to grow a little rough, as it always 
does in the Irish Sea, and Jean began to have 
poignant memories of the day before. Fi- 
nally she said to Elizabeth, My courage is 
all gone, Beth, Tm not going to risk a repeti- 
tion of yesterday’s experience, so, before it’s 
too late. I’m going down to join Miss Hooper. 
I’m glad you feel so well; you’ll have to tell 
us later about all the exciting things that hap- 
pen on deck. From what I can see now, the 
principal excitement seems to be being seasick 
for a change.” 

With these words she went slowly below 
and was just in time to secure the last berth, 
for many others had been obliged to leave the 
deck, too. It was a rough passage, but Jean 
felt so much more comfortable lying down 
that she did not complain, and simply lay still 
on her back longing for the trip to be ended. 


262 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


At last, of course, they reached Belfast, the 
first Irish city they were to visit, and very 
happy they were to be on terra firma again. 
As they walked up the long pier all three of 
them were on the lookout, even then, for Mr. 
Cabot. Jean declared she was so dizzy she 
couldn’t see straight and felt the motion of the 
boat as much as she did when they were on 
it but she wouldn’t give up and declared she 
would fight it off by staying out all the after- 
noon to see the city. 

When they had gone but a short distance 
up the pier they caught sight of armed sol- 
diers stationed here and there amid a great 
crowd of loafers. Upon inquiring the cause 
they found the city was in the midst of a 
great strike, all the longshoremen and truck- 
drivers having just struck for higher wages, 
and they had become so violent that the troops 
had been called out to protect the city. Al- 
though they feared no harm from this serious 
condition of affairs, the three ” were glad 
they were to remain there only long enough 
to buy some of the linens for which the city 
is famous. 


WHAT IT REALLY MEANT 263 

At the end of the pier Jean exclaimed, Oh, 
what is that? I do believe it’s an Irish jaunt- 
ing-car. I’ve seen pictures of them many 
times but I never expected to ride in one. 
Can’t we hire one to ride to the hotel ? ” 

They had no difficulty in procuring one, 
for there seemed to be no other means of con- 
veyance and soon they had taken their places 
in the little two-wheeled carts and were 
bounced up and down over the pavements as 
they left the pier and the shipping district 
behind them and drove in the direction of 
their hotel. They were not sorry to alight, 
however, from the car for their physical con- 
dition did not particularly welcome unneces- 
sary jouncing at this time and walking in the 
future seemed preferable. 

After lunch they hurried to the shopping 
district and soon found themselves before a 
bewildering array of linens such as they had 
never seen before. It was a great temptation 
to buy, but their suit-cases were already very 
heavy and their trunks had been sent to 
Dublin. Still they could not resist, and be- 
fore they realized it they had bought so much 


264 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


that it would be necessary to have it sent 
by express to Dublin. Leaving the linen 
stores, they discovered some more wonderful 
bargains in gloves, and after their purchases 
Elizabeth declared that Jean had bought 
enough to give a pair to every girl in college. 

On their way back to the hotel they were 
held up by a whole regiment of soldiers pa- 
trolling the lower business section of the city, 
for a new danger threatened there. ‘‘ The 
three stood upon the steps of a bank where 
they had cashed some checks earlier in the 
afternoon and watched the soldiers, with a 
crowd of tag-rag men, women, and children 
at their heels, pass by and then they walked 
slowly back to their hotel. 

‘‘Well,’’ said Jean as they arose from the 
dinner table that evening, “ here we are in 
Ireland, but there’s no message from father. 
I don’t s^e how he’s ever going to find us. 
Wouldn’t it be awful if we should miss him? 
I can’t say that I admire his way of doing 
things ; why couldn’t he be more definite ? ” 

“ Oh, Jean, I’m sure he’ll find us all right,” 
said Miss Hooper, “ you sent him the list of 


WHAT IT REALLY MEANT 265 


hotels we should probably stop at in your let- 
ter addressed in care of the American Ex- 
press Company, and I’m sure he’ll go there 
immediately upon landing. We have planned 
for almost three weeks in Ireland and this is 
only our first day. Just keep up your courage, 
and keep your eyes open, and I’m positive 
you’ll see him before very long. You young 
people can stay up as long as you care to, 
but I believe I’ll go to bed very soon. I’m 
willing to take the first train in the morning 
for Dublin. How about you?” 

The girls- were of the same opinion, and 
said they would retire very soon but they had 
bought so many post-cards that day which they 
wanted to send on the next boat that they 
must be attended to that evening or it would 
be too late. So Miss Hooper left them and 
hastened to her room to reread a certain tele- 
gram that she had received that day, unbe- 
known to the girls, which read as follows: 

Surprise Jean. Will meet at Killarney. 

‘‘J. A. Cabot.” 


CHAPTER XII 


THROUGH THE GAP OF DUNLOE 

W IEN they reached Dublin, they were 
delighted with their first view of the 
city, but as they had decided to 
leave real sight-seeing there until their re- 
turn in a week or so, they only took passing 
glances at the interesting things in the imme- 
diate vicinity of their hotel and the bank 
where they went for their mail. 

Still no letter or cable from Mr. Cabot, and 
Jean was disappointed at that and also at the 
fact that they had received no letters from Bob 
Bowker and Jack Raymond, who, in spite of 
their promises to write, had sent them noth- 
ing as yet. There was a note from Don Far- 
ingdon asking if they would let him know the 
date of their sailing from Liverpool, for he 
hoped to be able to see them off, as his uncle 
had found he would have business there the 
266 


THE GAP OF DUNLOE 267 

early part of September and had invited him 
to accompany him. Jean was delighted with 
this information, for it would give her an op- 
portunity to introduce the young fellow to 
her father, who always enjoyed meeting her 
friends. 

A long, thin business envelope in the same 
mail contained a report of Jean’s marks for 
her first year at Ashton, and, although it was 
not what one would have called brilliant, it 
delighted her beyond measure for she found 
she had not only passed in all her subjects, 
but she had received a credit in music and a 
higher mark in her French than she had ever 
believed it possible for her to obtain. When 
she showed the report to Miss Hooper she 
said with a smile, Fd be perfectly satisfied 
now if there was a mark in mathematics there 
among the others, but wait and see what a 
high mark I’ll have next year. Why! I may 
surprise you yet and major in math, before 
I’m through. It wouldn’t surprise me any 
more than my French mark.” 

When they got into their compartment the 
next day on the way to Killarney, they were 


268 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


traveling third class now, in order that they 
might see something of the interesting people 
of the country, to their great delight they 
found themselves seated near a little group of 
Gaelic children who had been taken by the 
village priest down to Dublin the week before 
to take part in an exhibition held there for 
the purpose of creating new interest in the 
Gaelic language spoken in the northern parts 
of Ireland and Scotland. There was not a 
dull moment during the long ride, for the 
girls soon became friends with some of the 
children and through an older girl who acted 
as an interpreter they persuaded them to sing 
and recite and write in this interesting old 
language which is fast disappearing. Need- 
less to say, the priest did not enter into the 
conversation, for he seemed perfectly content 
to sit back in one corner of the compartment 
reading his prayer-book and telling his beads 
and casting only occasional glances in the di- 
rection of his proteges in order to assure him- 
self that they were not becoming noisy or 
troublesome. With real reluctance the 
three ” saw the little group leave the train at 


THE GAP OF DUNLOE 269 


a tiny station some fifty miles from where 
they were to alight. 

At Killarney station they found themselves 
a part of the happy, jostling crowd of pleas- 
ure-seekers waiting to be conveyed to their 
hotels. With others, they helped fill a 'bus 
and were driven quickly through the very 
greenest country they had ever seen to the 
Lake Hotel, a capacious building on the 
shore of the lowest of the three lakes of Kil- 
larney and commanding a wonderful view of 
the surrounding mountains. They all agreed 
it was more attractive even than in the Tros- 
sachs, for there was a fresh green verdure 
everywhere here that was lacking in the other 
region. 

Early the next morning they joined a party 
which was going through the Gap of Dunloe, 
and left the hotel at about half-past nine 
o’clock in a small tally-ho to drive the five 
miles to the opening of the pass or Gap, as it 
is called there. The driver was a jovial 
young Irish fellow brim-full of information 
and quite ready to impart it to all who would 
listen. Not far from the hotel, out on a 


270 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


lonely road, the/ overtook an old Irish beg- 
gar playing sweetly upon a flute. Jean won- 
dering what the piece might be, asked the 
driver if he knew the name of it. Quick as 
a flash she received the answer, “ Oh, sure, 
mum, it^s a time.’’ Later on when he found 
out that Jean was from America he said with 
tears in his eyes, Sure, mum, I’ve a brother 
in America. Do you know him ? ” In- 
deed,” said Jean, ^‘and where does he live?” 
“ In Australia,” answered the driver with all 
the seriousness in the world and Jean hadn’t 
the heart to laugh or correct him, and simply 
said she didn’t know him. 

Before they had covered four miles of the 
five they were met by numerous reckless men, 
riding on black, wild-looking Irish ponies, 
who asked the passengers of the tally-ho to 
hire their ponies to ride on through the pass. 
They were joined by others all along the way 
and by the time they reached Kate Kearney’s 
Cottage at the foot of the pass they were 
fairly surrounded by them. Jean and Miss 
Hooper with most of the others, had decided 
to ride, for they were very fond of horse- 


THE GAP OF DUNLOE 


271 


back-riding and were assured by the driver 
that the horses were perfectly safe, although 
their appearance was much against them. 
They tried to persuade Elizabeth to ride, too, 
but she declared she would not, for never 
having been on a horse in her whole life she 
did not wish to experiment with these wild 
horses in a mountain pass. Her sentiments 
were echoed by a young German and his 
mother who were of the hotel party and to- 
gether they watched those on horseback de- 
part before starting out on their tramp. They 
were soon left behind by the dashing riders 
and the last Elizabeth saw of Jean she was 
leading the gay cavalcade, her hat off and her 
hair beginning to fall down over her shoul- 
ders. 

Elizabeth soon discovered that Herr Wei- 
mar's mother could speak no English, but the 
young man himself was a university gradu- 
ate and spoke English and French quite as 
well as his own language. In fact, he ad- 
mitted to Elizabeth that except when talking 
with his mother he used English entirely for 
he found he got much better service, even in 


272 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


some of the hotels of his own country. As a 
result, their conversation became very inter- 
esting in spite of the fact that Frau Weimar 
could not enter into it except to answer an 
occasional to her son’s questions. 

As the pass wound through the rocky 
mountains it became steeper and harder to 
climb and it was not long before Frau Wei- 
mar became exhausted and declared she could 
not take another step. The three sat down 
by the side of the road and waited for a re- 
turning horseman to pass them, in spite of 
the fact that Frau Weimar protested vio- 
lently at the suggestion that she should cover 
the remainder of the distance on the back of 
one of those wild horses. They did not have 
long to wait, and the son bargained with the 
driver for the use of the horse for the rest 
of the way and with great difficulty the 
mother was lifted to the saddle. Her rather 
bulky proportions were not exactly suited for 
horseback-riding, and it is doubtful if she 
had ever had much experience in that line, but 
anything seemed preferable to her walking 
the rest of the distance or sitting indefinitely 



Jean was leading the gay cavalc ade. — Page 271 



THE GAP OF DUNLOE 


273 


alone by the roadside in the midst of desperate 
strangers who understood not a word she 
said; for it was plain to see that her son was 
determined to finish the walk with the attrac- 
tive young American whom the mother was 
already watching a little jealously. Finally 
she started off with the driver leading the 
horse by the bridle, long whip in hand in case 
he should need to urge the weary beast of 
burden along the way. Very reluctantly she 
left her son and Elizabeth behind, and began 
to cast frightened glances at the driver in 
whose power for good or evil, she felt her- 
self to be, and then anxious ones at her only 
son, who, for the first time in .their whole 
summer’s trip together, had left her for a fair 
young stranger. 

They, on the other hand, were enjoying the 
tramp through the heart of the mountains 
and marveled at the grandeur and beauty 
around them. Sometimes the lofty peaks 
seemed towering directly over them and some- 
times they stood on the very edge of a little 
mountain lake. Occasionally they passed 
through little showers of rain drops but they 


274 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 

were both used to them now and did not mind 
them in the least, indeed it was a little re- 
freshing to their faces, burning from exposure 
to the sun and the wind. The last half of 
the way they were beset with beggars with 
pitiful stories and far more pitiful faces and 
rags, asking for a few pennies in exchange 
for coarse hand-knit woolen stockings, or a 
sip of mountain dew,” known more com- 
monly in other localities as whiskey; and once 
a group of old men sat by the roadside and 
begged for a penny in return for which the 
givers might hear the echo caused by an ex- 
plosion of gunpowder which they had in a 
large bottle close beside them. Little chil- 
dren, hardly old enough to talk, lisped, 
Penny for the poor,” and ran out from most 
unexpected places and followed so persistently 
that one gladly threw them a penny to get rid 
of them. Poverty, misery, degradation, were 
everywhere, and while pity at the moment 
urged generosity, one felt positive that every 
penny given went to help fill another whiskey 
bottle. 

Before they had started through the pass 


THE GAP OF DUNLOE 


275 


they had been told that the distance was six 
miles, but it had meant six Irish miles, which 
are equivalent to eight or nine English miles, 
and toward the end of the tramp Elizabeth 
began to get very tired but she would sooner 
have dropped to the ground than have com- 
plained to her walking companion who seemed 
as fresh as when they had begun, but with 
more and more frequent rests they finally 
came to the end of the pass and saw the lake 
and the peaceful valley below them. As they 
neared the groups of people sitting or stand- 
ing on the grass near the boat landing on the 
edge of the lake, they did not first discover 
Jean or Miss Hooper but after waiting a 
little while Elizabeth was exceedingly aston- 
ished to see them appear on a little cross-road 
accompanied by Bob Bowker and Jack Ray- 
mond. Very gladly they welcomed Elizabeth, 
and she then introduced Herr Weimar, but he 
very soon excused himself and went in search 
of his mother whom, as yet, he had not been 
able to locate. 

The others compared notes on their expe- 
riences, each one declaring his own to have 


276 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


been the most enjoyable, and then Elizabeth 
drew Jean one side and asked how it hap- 
pened that Bob and Jack were with them, 
Jean explained that she had chosen a par- 
ticularly lively horse and riding far ahead of 
the others, had reached the end of the pass 
first. As she was about to dismount she had 
some difficulty with the stirrup and on look- 
ing around for help, discovered just ahead of 
her some one whose back looked very familiar, 
but for the moment she had no idea who it 
was. Riding up to him it had taken but one 
glance to convince her that it was Bob, and 
just ahead of him was Jack. Telling them 
of her dilemma they promptly helped her to 
dismount although it took them several seconds 
to recover from their surprise at seeing her 
there, particularly with her hair flying wildly 
about in every direction. She admitted she 
was a little embarrassed, too, for at the part- 
ing with Bob in London things had been a 
little strained and in the meantime his lack 
of letters had shown that he evidently was 
not anxious to continue their friendship. 
Then, too, she was a little ashamed at the 


THE GAP OF DUNLOE 


277 


thought of her hair in its disheveled condi- 
tion, for she always prided herself on her neat 
appearance. But she was a sensible girl and 
determined to overlook such little things and 
make the best of the circumstances. After 
looking in vain on the ground for some hair- 
pins she was forced to braid her hair and let 
it hang down her back, a fact which seemed 
greatly to distress her but undoubtedly won 
the approval of the others, for under these 
circumstances one realized the beauty of 
Jean’s luxuriant golden hair. The two boys 
were about to take a boat down the lakes, 
but Jean had invited them to wait for Eliza- 
beth and Miss Hooper, so that they could all 
make the trip together. After Miss Hooper’s 
arrival they waited a long time and then wan- 
dered to a neighboring cottage for some water 
to drink, thinking they would have time before 
Elizabeth came in sight, but she had arrived 
sooner than they expected and consequently 
had been obliged to wait for them. 

The hotel-keeper had promised to send up 
luncheon for the entire party by the boatmen 
who were to convey the party down the lakes. 


278 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


so Miss Hooper called the two girls to her and 
then guided the young people toward the men 
whom she saw just unloading a hamper of 
lunch-boxes. After procuring their share 
they sat down on the cool green grass at the 
water’s edge and ravenously devoured the de- 
licious luncheon which had been prepared for 
them. Soon after, the boatmen announced 
in shrill tones that the boats would start in 
fifteen minutes and Miss Hooper’s party were 
among the first to step into the largest boat, 
which would be the first to start. The boats 
were enormous flat-bottomed affairs rowed by 
four strong men, each man having an oar. 
There were about ten people in each boat in 
addition to the rowers, and Elizabeth was glad 
when the German and his mother took the 
last seats in their boat. 

There were three lakes, upper, middle, and 
lower, covering a distance of about fourteen 
miles, and between middle and lower lake 
they were obliged to shoot some rapids. This 
was great fun for the young folks and had 
no danger, or at least no one admitted that 
it had. When they went into the lower lake 


THE GAP OF DUNLOE 


279 

they found it covered with whitecaps and it 
was with great difficulty that the men could 
make any headway against the waves. The 
spray began to dash up over the sides of the 
boat and fear to settle in the hearts of most 
of the occupants. Conversation lagged, for 
every eye was upon the sturdy boatmen who 
were making a desperate struggle to gain the 
landing in front of the hotel. One would 
have believed it impossible for this lake, so 
placid when they left it in the morning to 
have become so soon a raging, miniature sea. 

At last they passed the most dangerous part 
and reached the little cove near the wharf. 
By this time people from the hotel had come 
out on the shore to watch the boats and a 
great cheer went up when at last a successful 
landing was made. With grateful hearts the 
ten people stepped upon land again and looked 
back at the other three boats which had fol- 
lowed them. It was fully an hour before the 
last boat-load was landed, and only then did 
the rest of the people go back to the hotel. 

Although Bob and Jack had been staying 
at a small hotel in the center of the town and 


28 o jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


intended to leave that evening, they were pre- 
vailed upon (without much difficulty) to 
spend the night at the Lake Hotel in order 
that they might have an evening together in 
that picturesque country. After an early 
dinner the four young people walked to 
Muckross Abbey, not far from the hotel, and 
found an interesting ruin, covered with the 
shining green ivy which grows so abundantly 
there. They lingered amid the beauty longer 
than they had intended and on their return 
found it was beginning to get dark. As they 
hurried up a path of the hotel grounds they 
saw two people walking slowly toward them 
and Elizabeth thought she recognized Miss 
Hooper’s voice. Just then the piazza lights 
were switched on and a ray of light fell just 
across the faces of the two approaching. In 
a moment Jean exclaimed, Oh, it’s my 
father, with Miss Hooper ! Excuse me, 
please,” and she rushed forward and in a mo- 
ment was in his arms. 

It took several moments to recover from 
her surprise and joy and then she remembered 
to introduce her friends. Her father eyed 


THE GAP OF DUNLOE 281 

the young men very carefully as fathers are 
apt to do, but evidently they met his approval 
for he smiled jovially and seemed really glad 
to know them. It developed that he had just 
arrived on an evening train and was so im- 
patient to see Jean that he insisted upon find- 
ing her before he ate his dinner. Now that 
he had seen her, he was ready to eat, for he 
admitted that he was hungry, and he com- 
manded that the others should come into the 
dining-room and have dinner all over again 
with him. 

By this time all the other guests had left 
the room and it was long after the dinner 
hour but the head-waiter was perfectly willing 
(for the astonishingly generous tip he re- 
ceived) to reset a small table for the party 
and serve them a dinner fit for, a king. No 
one but Mr. Cabot did justice to the dinner, 
however, for the others were kept so busy an- 
swering his questions that they could not have 
eaten if they had had the slightest inclination 
to do so. Still they were all happy, very 
happy, and the evening passed before they 
realized it. Although it was very late before 


282 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


they left the table and went into the long draw- 
ing-room, no one seemed at all disturbed, for 
Miss Hooper and her party were to spend a day 
or two at this delightful hotel and the boys 
were not to leave until the following noon, 
so early rising was not imperative for any of 
them and they might not have such another 
perfect evening as this to enjoy. The moon 
had risen late that night, and between eleven 
and twelve its brightness shone across the 
lake, so putting on their coats the little group 
went out upon the piazza to drink in the beauty 
of the night. At last it came time to say good- 
night and reluctantly the party broke up and 
went to their rooms. 

As Jean and Elizabeth got into bed Elizabeth 
said, “ Jean, it seems to me Miss Hooper 
didn’t appear at all surprised at your father’s 
coming here. Do you suppose she knew any- 
thing about it ? ” 

I thought the same thing,” answered Jean, 
“ and if I didn’t love Miss Hooper so much 
I might be just a little jealous. Father really 
did seem very glad to meet her again.” 

And in another room on the floor above 


THE GAP OF DUNLOE 283 

Jack was saying to Bob, You’re pretty hard 
hit, old man, but I don’t know that I blame 
you, she’s a mighty fine girl. It’s hard luck, 
though, you’re not going back to America this 
fall instead of staying over for a course at 
Oxford. Better change your mind and take 
your degree at Harvard, then you’ll be much 
nearer Ashton. ‘ Out of sight, out of mind,' 
you know.” 

In yet another room as Mr. Cabot lay in 
his bed watching the moonlight stream into 
his room, he said, ‘‘Now I know why I was 
so anxious to join this personally conducted 
party. And she seemed rather glad to see 
me, too.” 

And Miss Hooper closing her weary eyes 
smiled to herself as she thought, “ I wonder 
why he sent the telegram to me. But I’m 
very glad he did.” 


CHAPTER XIII 


LAST DAYS IN IRELAND 

TAKE up there, Jack,’’ said Bob 
late the next morning, I would 
a word with thee.” 

That’s all right. Bob,” answered Jack, rub- 
bing his eyes, “ have a dozen, but why this 
unearthly hour ? ” 

It isn’t unearthly, old man, it’s nearly 
noon and we’re supposed to start from here 
before long. But that’s just what I wanted 
to talk to you about. What do you suppose 
Jean would say if we asked permission to 
travel with them as far as Dublin? That 
coaching trip of eighty miles sounds mighty 
good to me.’^ 

Why,” said Jack, ‘‘ I don’t suppose Jean 
would object very strenuously, but her father 
and Miss Hooper might have something to 
say about the matter. It’s up to you. I’m 
284 


LAST DAYS IN IRELAND 285 


perfectly willing to follow wherever you lead. 
You might as well beard the lion in his den. 
It won’t do you any harm to get some expe- 
rience in asking favors of the old man, you 
may want to ask him for something else be- 
fore very long, judging by the way you’re 
rushing things nowadays. Strikes me though, 
he’s in a pretty amiable mood just now, and 
it wouldn’t surprise me if he had his eyes 
on Miss Hooper. Can’t say I blame him. 
She’s some looker, isn’t she? If I were a 
little older or she a little younger I rather 
think I’d enter into that running myself.” 

‘‘ Quit your jollying, old man. But now 
seriously, you can stay in bed as long as you 
want to, and I’m going down and see if I 
can find Jean, and if she approves of my 
plan. I’m going straight to the other two and 
have it out. If they object to our charming 
society being thrust upon them, they can say 
so, and we’ll take the noon train as we planned 
yesterday. So long. I’m off.” 

Jean was delighted with Bob’s plans and 
paved the way for him by seeing her father 
first; and so it happened that both he and 


286 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

Miss Hooper gave their consent to the young 
men joining their party, for they both enjoyed 
young people, and even if they had wished, 
they could have found nothing to object to in 
these two splendid specimens of young Amer- 
ican manhood. 

There was plenty to do all day in the little 
town; Mr. Cabot hired a carriage and Miss 
Hooper, Elizabeth, and Jack rode with him 
while Jean and Bob followed on horseback. 
It was too beautiful out in the splendid air to 
think of going indoors for sight-seeing so the 
only stop they made was at a convent on their 
return in order that the feminine portion of 
the party might see some lace makers at work 
and purchase a little Irish crochet from the 
sisters for their next summer’s gowns. In 
the evening there was a musicale in the hotel, 
which had been arranged for the benefit of a 
local charity and the entertainment of the 
many guests. Jean had been invited to play 
and had accepted only because her father 
seemed so anxious to have her do so, for as 
he said, it was a long time since he had heard 
her play. 


LAST DAYS IN IRELAND 287 

He and the others sat back in a secluded 
corner during the whole evening and found 
much to enjoy and applaud in all the numbers 
on the programme, but when Jean, in a simple 
white gown, seated herself at the grand square 
piano and began to play, her father was not 
the only one who began to take more interest 
in the concert and listen more attentively. 
She played as she always did, very naturally 
and simply, yet in a masterly way that showed 
she had the instrument under perfect control. 
When she finished Mr. Cabot turned to Miss 
Hooper and said, “ Don’t blame me if I’m 
proud of my little girl, for I am, every mo- 
ment of my life. But I don’t take any credit 
of it to myself. She’s always been a good 
girl, just naturally good because she couldn’t 
help being, but I can see that she’s changed 
this year, and I know that it’s college that 
has given her the one thing we boys couldn’t 
seem to find. I tell you, it’s mighty hard for 
any girl to have to grow up without knowing 
what it is to have a mother. I realize you’ve 
done a lot for her yourself. Miss Hooper, 
and I thank you for it with all my heart, and 


^8 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


if there’s ever anything I can do to repay you 
for all your goodness, I shall never rest until 
I’ve done it.” Miss Hooper could not reply 
for just then Jean joined them and the others 
arose, for her encore had ended the musicale. 
It was another beautiful moonlight night but 
they did not stay out long to enjoy it, for they 
had planned an early start for the next morning. 

Directly after breakfast, the great coach 
drew up before the hotel and was immediately 
filled with those who were to take the eighty- 
mile coaching trip through the wild mountains 
and peaceful valleys that lay beyond the Lakes 
of Killarney. The first day forty miles were 
to be covered and the stop-over night made 
at Glengariff ; then on the next day they would 
ride forty miles more before they reached 
Macroom where the train was to be taken for 
Cork. After stopping at several of the hotels 
in the center of the town for other passengers 
they began to ascend the winding road, and 
soon had left the green valley and the beau- 
tiful lakes behind them, except for an occa- 
sional glimpse of them through openings along 
the way. 


LAST DAYS IN IRELAND 289 


Higher and higher they went, through 
wilder and ever wilder country without sign 
of habitation. Then unexpectedly they would 
come upon tiny villages with their bits of 
shanties where chickens, pigs, and sometimes 
a cow seemed to be as much at home as the 
woman in the doorway. The men, and quite 
as often the women and children, could be 
seen working in peat bogs, or occasionally 
hoeing corn in a diminutive corn field. Then 
again they passed magnificent shooting-boxes 
of English gentlemen who let out the sur- 
rounding land in such tiny bits that from the 
top of a hill it looked more like a patchwork 
quilt than anything else. Heather-covered 
slopes, as beautiful as any in Scotland, fur- 
nished ample opportunity for beggars to 
thrive, as children of all sizes ran after the 
coach offering generous bunches of both the 
pink and white bloom for a penny apiece. If 
pennies were not forthcoming immediately, 
the little beggars would run for miles until in 
sheer desperation some one would throw a 
handful of coins, declaring positively it would 
be the last. 


290 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


Varying emotions filled the hearts of the 
passengers, for one moment they would be 
impressed with the vast extent of land going 
to waste for lack of cultivation, and then the 
next moment the stony character of the soil 
would show them the impossibility of getting 
anything but a scanty crop of potatoes from 
such ground. A wild natural beauty every- 
where, but with it all, poverty, ignorance, and 
misery. Is it any wonder that the youth of 
this peasantry leaves it all and -goes to the 
land of opportunity and wealth where, in their 
estimation, one has but to pick up the gold 
from the street and fill his pockets? But alas 
for the desolate land they have left behind 
them and the poor mothers and fathers still 
struggling to get a living from the soil ! 

For luncheon the first day they stopped at 
a barren-looking building called by the driver 
a hotel, but in marked contrast to the luxurious 
Lake Hotel they had just left. After a hasty 
repast, hasty, because there was so little that 
was palatable, they were glad to leave the dark 
dining-room behind and explore the tiny is- 
land, in a small adjoining lake, which once 


LAST DAYS IN IRELAND 291 


had been the retreat of some persecuted priests. 
An old, bent guide led them carefully about, 
explaining as he did so the historical events 
connected with the island, and although they 
marveled sometimes at his remarks, they said 
nothing. A tiny chapel now stands upon the 
spot where once a cave protected these re- 
ligious enthusiasts and one wonders where 
enough people come from in this apparently 
uninhabited district to attend the regular serv- 
ices which are said to be held there. 

Leaving the chapel with the relics, the old 
guide began, Now as long ago as the time 
William the Conqueror came into England,’' 
and as he paused Elizabeth said, “ Can you 
tell us, good man, just when William the Con- 
queror did come into England ? ” The old 
man with all the assurance of his previous in- 
formation replied, ‘‘ Yes, miss, about the — er 
— er — seventeenth century.” And then and 
there paying him their sixpences they dispensed 
with his services, preferring to rely upon their 
own general knowledge for historic data than 
upon this poor old man whose eyesight and 
memory both seemed to be failing him. 


292 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


Following a little by-path they came sud- 
denly upon a large rock covered with rusty 
wire hairpins, safety-pins, an occasional long 
pin with black or white head, and buttons of 
many varieties. Pondering over the reason 
for such simple things being placed here with 
so much apparent care, they called back the 
old guide and inquired of him. With bowed 
head and a low voice he informed them that 
this stone was a shrine, and these the offer- 
ings of sinners for propitiation of their sins 
or sacrifices for blessings asked of God. Then 
for the first time the real poverty of these 
people struck them, for how much has a per- 
son to call his own when as a sacrifice to his 
God he offers up a wire hairpin or a black- 
headed pin? 

The afternoon passed without incident, and 
they arrived at Glengariff in time for dinner, 
and glad they all were to get out and walk 
a little, for riding forty miles on a stretch in 
a not too comfortable coach is not conducive 
to absolute bodily comfort. Early again the 
next morning they started off for the second 
half of their journey, which, because of new 


LAST DAYS IN IRELAND 293 

passengers who filled the coach and the ever- 
changing scenery was just as interesting as 
the other half had been. When they arrived 
at the hotel for their noonday stop, the driver 
informed them that they had made such good 
time coming from Glengariff, that they would 
stop two hours, as he wanted to have two 
horses shod at a blacksmith’s near by. He 
recommended to them a spring and a water- 
fall in the woods back of the hotel and said 
there would be plenty of time to visit them 
before luncheon, as it was only twelve then, 
and luncheon was served at one. He charged 
them to be ready at two o’clock, sharp, for he 
wanted to start surely by that time. 

Every one on the coach, excepting Eliza- 
beth and Miss Hooper and Mr. Cabot, started 
out for the spring, after leaving their luggage 
at the hotel. When they came back just as 
the bell was sounding for luncheon they gave 
such graphic accounts of the beauty of the 
falls and the excellence of the water in the 
spring near by that Mr. Cabot suggested to 
Miss Hooper and Elizabeth that they hurry 
through their luncheon and go up to see the 


294 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


falls, for there would be plenty of time before 
two o’clock. Elizabeth begged off as she had 
a headache, but the other two started up the 
path back of the hotel, as those left behind 
tried to give them directions for a short cut 
to save time. 

Luncheon was over; the coach drove up 
into the yard ; passengers took their seats ; the 
driver cracked his whip and announced his in- 
tention of starting but Mr. Cabot and Miss 
Hooper had not returned. Jean and Eliza- 
beth and the boys walked anxiously up and 
down in front of the coach, taking turns to 
run to the path to look for the missing ones, 
but it was no use. It got to be half-past two, 
and still they did not come. Passengers on 
the coach took out their watches and anxiously 
consulted the driver; there were trains to be 
taken at Macroom, and unless they started 
soon it would be impossible to arrive in time. 
Much was at stake and everybody realized it, 
so finally at quarter of three the driver said to 
Jean, Very sorry. Miss, but we cannot wait 
any longer. You see I must get the coach to 
Macroom on time or I lose my job. Sorry to 


LAST DAYS IN IRELAND 295 

leave you here but it seems to me there’s noth- 
ing else to do. You can take the coach to- 
morrow. Will that be all right? ” 

Jean replied that it would, but she was very 
much alarmed about the two who had not re- 
turned for she could not imagine what had 
happened to them. So with real disappoint- 
ment they watched the coach disappear over 
the hill and then they went up on the piazza 
for a consultation. Just as they were on the 
point of organizing a rescuing party Mr. Cabot 
and Miss Hooper came hurrying up to them 
with anxious faces. ""Has the coach gone?” 
they both asked at once. When they were 
informed that it had, Mr. Cabot was very 
angry at first but he calmed down when they 
explained the reason to him. Then he de- 
clared that he would hire a carriage to drive 
them fast enough to catch up with the coach 
which had been gone so short a time. But 
upon inquiring he found he could not hire a 
conveyance of any sort and there was nothing 
to do but remain there a whole day and wait 
for the next coach. 

After the excitement had subsided and his 


296 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


good-humor returned some one ventured to 
ask how it happened that it took them so long 
when the others had gone and returned be- 
fore luncheon in twenty minutes. Miss 
Hooper explained that they thought they were 
following Bob’s directions for the short cut 
and took the path he indicated. In some way 
they must have become so interested in the 
conversation that they neglected to turn to the 
right but followed the path to the left. Soon 
they found themselves in the midst of dense 
woods with no sign of spring or waterfall. 
They did not know what to do but decided 
to keep on until they should come to an open- 
ing where they could get a view of the sur- 
rounding country and take the nearest way 
back to the hotel. 

They kept on walking until it seemed as 
though they would never get out of the woods 
but of a sudden they saw an opening ahead 
and just beyond that a tiny cottage. Going 
up to the cottage they looked in through the 
open door and to their astonishment saw a 
woman lying on some straw on the mud floor. 
Huddled up to her were several children and 


LAST DAYS IN IRELAND 297 

in one corner, perfectly unconscious of the 
fact that a woman lay dying, a pig and some 
chickens were trying to scratch enough for 
their noonday meal. They declared they had 
never seen such a pitiable sight in their lives, 
and although they knew they ought to hurry 
back to the waiting coach, they hated to leave 
the cottage without attempting to help in some 
way. The oldest girl pointed out the main 
path to the hotel and told them they had taken 
a winding one through the thickest part of 
the woods, and she offered to go back with 
them part way if they wished, so they 
wouldn’t make a mistake again. Accepting 
this offer, Mr. Cabot left some money in the 
poor woman’s hands and promised himself 
that he would leave orders at the hotel for 
more to be done for this wretched family, 
deserted by the husband and father when dis- 
couragement seemed greater than he could 
stand. So perhaps. Miss Hooper said, it was 
a fortunate thing that they had missed the 
coach, for now they could all go back and 
attempt to alleviate the suffering they had 
come upon so unexpectedly. So the enforced 


298 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


wait did not prove at all monotonous, for it 
was spent in doing good and bringing hope 
and relief to a destitute family. 

They took the coach next day for Macroom 
and arrived in the little market town about 
four o’clock. Fortunately it was market day 
and they were just in time to see the last of 
the excitement. The people for miles around, 
once a week, bring in their fruits, vegetables, 
chickens, and pigs in little low carts drawn 
by a donkey, or a horse, if one is rich enough, 
and exchange them for grain and groceries. 
It is an interesting sight to see the wares 
spread over the sidewalks and edges of the 
streets or in the carts, in the section of the 
town where are the few small shops, and 
guarded by the women in their coarse woolen 
dresses and the inevitable black shawl over 
their heads. There is a feeling of friendliness 
among them all as they exchange greetings 
and wares and renew acquaintances. The 
men are in the minority, for it is the women 
who run the farms and do the trading. It 
was amusing as the afternoon wore on to see 
one old woman after another hitch the donkey 


LAST DAYS IN IRELAND 299 


into the little box-like cart and after putting 
in a bag of meal, take her seat upon it and 
then drive off, with perhaps a few fine chickens 
in beside her or a box of cabbages tucked 
up close to the meal, a smile upon her hard, 
deep-lined face, as she waved good-bye to 
those left behind. The only excitement of 
their whole life was on market days and noth- 
ing but toiling from morning till night on all 
the others. They rode up to Cork with a 
feeling of admiration for these hard-working 
women, and a deep sympathy for the whole 
peasantry of Ireland. 

At Cork it was quite different, for here 
was a prosperous city with modern buildings 
and improvements everywhere. What inter- 
ested them most was Blarney Castle, a few 
miles out of the city itself. As they rode 
out on the train they were talking about kiss- 
ing the famous Blarney Stone and thought it 
would be a very simple matter and then as a 
reward be filled for evermore with wit, elo- 
quence, and blarney. But in reality it was 
quite different from what they had expected 
and very difficult. A narrow, winding pas- 


300 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


sageway led up to the top of the tower of the 
castle and by the time one had climbed this, 
he realized he had accomplished something. 
But a greater difficulty awaited him, for if 
he would press his chaste lips upon the sacred 
spot he must practically be held by his feet 
and swing down over the edge of the wall, 
and then after the act was performed he must 
be carefully drawn up again. None of the 
party were quite ready, as yet, to risk their 
lives and decided it were sufficient to kiss the 
stone by proxy. So each one by turn kissed 
the end of an umbrella which Mr. Cabot 
carried and placed that upon the spot, and 
considered they had come near enough the re- 
quirements to win everlasting wit for them- 
selves. 

There was much to be seen in Cork and 
Dublin and they lingered wherever fancy 
prompted them. The two boys left them on 
their arrival at Dublin and went over into 
England again, after promising to see them 
off at Liverpool, September sixteenth. Mr. 
Cabot insisted upon seeing everything worth 
while and under the most favorable circum- 


LAST DAYS IN IRELAND 301 


stances ; everything that money could buy was 
showered upon them until even Jean began to 
protest. No one at home was forgotten and 
present after present filled up the suit-cases 
and trunks. Mr. Cabot declared that he felt 
obliged to do in a very short time enough to 
make up for their entire summer’s shopping, 
but in spite of the haste he delighted the 
feminine eye with his excellent taste in pur- 
chases. He was happy — that was evident in 
everything he did and said — and his happi- 
ness radiated to all those with whom he came 
in contact. Jean declared she never remem- 
bered seeing her father quite like this before, 
but she did not admit, even to Elizabeth, just 
what she thought was the cause of all this 
happiness. She wanted to be quite sure be- 
fore she committed herself, and in the mean- 
time she had her weather-eye out and was 
watching to see which way the wind blew. 

At last came the day to leave Ireland, the 
land which “ the three ” agreed was the most 
attractive in its natural beauty and people, and 
which for many reasons they had enjoyed 
most of all. Jean admitted that if she ever 


302 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


came to the point of choosing an ideal spot 
for a honeymoon she should choose the Lakes 
of Killarney; but the others had nothing to 
say on the subject of honeymoons, no matter 
what they may have been thinking thereon. 
They had to cross the Irish Sea again from 
Dublin to Holyhead, but Miss Hooper and 
Jean were wise enough to remain in their 
staterooms, and so escaped any return of mal- 
de-nier which had been so persistent in its 
endeavors to prevent their enjoying those 
waters. Mr. Cabot and Elizabeth, on the 
other hand, remained out on deck and declared 
they enjoyed every minute of the trip except 
of course when they missed the others and 
wished they were able to join them. Elizabeth 
maintained that there wasn't a ripple, but Jean 
refused to believe it and said that from where 
she was she knew it was as bad as it had been 
on the previous crossings. 

As they left the boat and boarded the train 
for Liverpool, Jean exclaimed, ‘‘ There, thank 
goodness, that's over. I've been on that Sea 
three times and I never want to go again as 
long as I live." 


LAST DAYS IN IRELAND 303 

Eh ! What’s that ? ” said her father with 
a quizzical smile. How about that honey- 
moon I heard you planning out this morning? 
How will you get to the Lakes of Killarney 
if you don’t cross the channel? ” 

Don’t worry, father, by the time I have 
an opportunity of spending a honeymoon any- 
where, airships will be so common that my 
husband will have one of his own and we’ll 
think nothing of flying over to Killarney.” 

They spent two days in Liverpool and Mr. 
Cabot ran up to London on a little matter of 
business, but it afterward developed that he 
was interested in a certain purchase there that 
he seemed unable to make in Liverpool. Early 
on the morning of the sixteenth they went 
down to the boat to see that everything was 
in readiness for their departure in the after- 
noon. Although Jean had heard nothing 
from Don Faringdon since she wrote him the 
note telling him the date they would sail, she 
expected him at the boat. Of course she ex- 
pected Bob and Jack, too, and she did hope 
Bob would be friendly with Don, for she saw 
no reason why they couldn’t all be good 


304 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


friends. Bob had been so good-natured in 
Ireland that she hoped it would be the same 
here. She liked all three of the boys and 
John Blair, too, for different reasons, and 
nothing more than good friendship and ca- 
maraderie had entered into her sensible little 
head, but she did hope Bob wouldn’t be fool- 
ish. 

Their staterooms were quite different from 
what they were when they had left New York, 
for there were no letters or packages or 
flowers, except some roses Mr. Cabot had 
given them. But when Bob and Jack came 
they brought a big box of candy, and flowers 
for each of the three,” and made them deck 
themselves out with the latter. Jean looked 
in vain for Don, of whom there was not a 
sign, and finally it came time for the boys to 
leave the boat Jean would not have admitted 
that she was disappointed at Don’s non-ap- 
pearance and she chatted gaily with Bob until 
he stepped off the gangway and said good- 
bye for the last time. She promised to write 
to him in answer to his letters and to let him 
see her the next June before she left for Cali- 


LAST DAYS IN IRELAND 305 


fornia, but that was a long way off in his esti- 
mation, and he did wish he were going back 
on the steamer with her, or later on to Harvard 
for his degree. 

Then the great boat started, and from where 
Jean stood with the others waving good-bye to 
their two friends, she saw a young man, hat- 
less, and with a huge florist’s box under one 
arm, come tearing down the wharf just too 
late. Oh, there’s Don Faringdon, probably 
he forgot what time the boat started. It’s a 
wonder he ever remembered the day. I’m 
disappointed, for he promised me faithfully 
that he never would forget again and you see 
how he’s kept his word. Anyway, I hope 
he’ll stop and talk with the boys and be good 
friends with them, for it will mean a great 
deal to Bob when he gets to Oxford.” And 
she waved her handkerchief as long as she 
could see any one on the wharf. But some- 
time later she received a wireless message 
which read: 

“I didn’t forget. Auto broke down. 

“ Don.” 


CHAPTER XIV 


HOMEWARD BOUND AND A SURPRISE 

HE trip home was little different from 



the trip over as regards general ex- 


periences, but it had one or two indi- 
vidual ones which made it a red-letter trip 
in the minds of a few of the passengers. The 
weather was good and made comfortable sail- 
ing, except for one day when there was what 
the captain called “ just a summer squall,’’ but 
which impressed Jean as quite the worst storm 
she ever hoped to be in, and she declared that 
all one day and night as she lay in her berth 
she expected every moment would be her last 
and she would be tossed into the briny deep 
to feed the fishes. 

Mr. Cabot, as always happened wherever he 
went, made friends with everybody, but grew 
particularly fond of the captain, an English- 
man of about his own age, with whom, in 


306 


HOMEWARD BOUND 


307 


the captain’s leisure hours, he might be seen 
walking the upper deck near the bridge, deep 
in the discussion of weighty matters, if one 
might judge by the serious expressions on 
their faces and the earnestness with which 
they talked. There was not a dull moment 
for any one as the delightful life on shipboard 
presented its varied amusements, one after 
another; still there was an entirely different 
atmosphere on this boat from that on the 
Adriatic. A quieter, calmer one, as though 
the passengers had had enough of rush and 
excitement and only asked that they might be 
carried as quickly as possible to the other shore 
in order that they might go to their homes 
and business and take up again the accustomed 
life with the new enthusiasm which a change 
of scenery always gives. The restlessness 
from thoughts of undiscovered countries had 
all died away, and in its place the willingness 
to take life comfortably in one’s steamer chair 
and think things over. 

The fifth day out, conversation centered on 
the entertainment to be given that evening for 
the benefit of the Sailors’ Homes in Liverpool 


3o8 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 

and Boston and the fund for the widows and 
children. A few opera singers had offered 
their services, but otherwise talent seemed 
scarce, or else people were not willing to exert 
themselves, so it was finally decided to arrange 
a mock trial, as there were enough lawyers and 
college professors to lend dignity to the occa- 
sion. The question to be settled was, ‘‘ Who 
stole Mr. Cabot’s cap?” the gentleman in 
question having declared he had lost his 
favorite cap the day before, and unless it had 
been blown out to sea, one of his fellow-pas- 
sengers, whom he very much suspected, still 
had it in his possession. Most of the young 
people were to serve in the capacity of wit- 
nesses and a number of the more dignified ones 
as jurors and lawyers. The committee in 
charge had worked up a great deal of en- 
thusiasm and nearly everybody promised to 
come and give liberally to the cause for which 
the entertainment was being held. 

And so there was no surprise when the 
great dining-room was filled to overflowing 
with the good-natured crowd. The whole 
trial was screamingly funny from beginning 


HOMEWARD BOUND 


309 


to end, but was a little prolonged on account 
of the number of witnesses and the slow, de- 
liberate manner of Dr. Whipple, the presiding 
officer. Just before the decision was an- 
nounced Jean and Elizabeth slipped out for 
some fresh air, intending to return again be- 
fore their absence should be noticed. They 
hurried up on upper deck and walked rapidly 
up and down several times until on one of the 
turns they came face to face with the captain, 
who had been able to remain only through the 
first half of the trial. 

‘‘ Little warm below, is it ? ” he asked. ‘‘ I 
was afraid it would be with so many there. 
But it did my heart good to see how the peo- 
ple turned out, for we’ll net a tidy little sum 
to turn over to the treasurer. I always take 
pride in the fact that my collections are among 
the largest every year. What a wonderful 
night this is! Have you noticed the moon 
and what a multitude of stars are visible to- 
night? In all my experience I’ve never seen 
a clearer night. That reminds me, there’s a 
small comet visible to-night, which you girls 
might like to see.” 


310 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 

“ Oh/’ said Jean excitedly, “ what is its 
name, and when can we see it ? ” 

^Ht hasn’t any name yet,” replied the cap- 
tain, ‘‘ and it’s reported to be visible between 
three and four o’clock.” 

“Oh!” said Jean with a shade of disap- 
pointment in her voice, “then we can’t see it 
unless we stay up all night. But why can’t 
we stay up? It’s so late now we won’t have 
to wait long before three o’clock. I’m going 
to ask Dad if we can, and perhaps he’ll stay 
up with us.” 

“If he says you may, have your steamer 
chairs brought up here near the bridge and 
I’ll tell the officers to keep an eye on you and 
wake you up if you get to sleep at the wrong 
time. And you might rap at my door, when 
there’s really something to see, in case I don’t 
wake up myself. But I don’t believe you can 
persuade your father to stay up with you, 
he’s too fond of sleep. Well, good luck to 
you,” he called out as the two girls hurried 
down the deck. 

Just as they entered the court-room the 
judge in stentorian tones was announcing that 


HOMEWARD BOUND 


311 

Mr. Cabot was guilty of stealing his own cap 
and hiding it in Professor Snelling’s steamer- 
trunk, and he was to be kept in close confine- 
ment for the rest of the trip in the biggest 
ice-box on board. Then amid much laughter 
and hearty applause the crowd dispersed and 
Jean made her way to her father. ‘‘ Oh, 
Dad,” she said, ‘‘the captain says there’s go- 
ing to be a new comet visible between three 
and four o’clock to-night, and Beth and I want 
to know if we can stay up for the rest of the 
night and see it.” 

“ Why, child, you’re crazy, of course you 
can’t. Why, where would you stay ? ” replied 
her father as he put his arm around her. 

“ But, Father, the captain said we could put 
our steamer chairs up on upper deck near the 
bridge and the officers would look out for us. 
It’s so light to-night there’s nothing to be 
afraid of, and it’s twelve o’clock now, so we 
won’t have to wait long. I’d love to do it. 
Dad, we can wrap up in our rugs and coats 
and be as comfortable as though we were in 
our own staterooms. Please say yes for I’ll 
be awfully disappointed if you don’t.” 


312 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


‘^Well, I think before I commit myself one 
way or the other, it would be better for me 
to go up and talk with the captain and look 
things over. You stay here with Miss Hooper 
and get her opinion and Til be back in just a 
few moments.” 

All right, but please be good just this one 
time,” said Jean pleasantly, for she felt con- 
fident now as to what her father would say 
on his return. 

And sure enough, a little later as he joined 
“the three” he said, “Why, yes, Jean, after 
talking things over with the captain I guess 
you can sit up there all night, if youVe set 
your heart on it. It surely is a wonderful 
night, and if I were a little younger and more 
romantic I might want to be up to just such 
fool tricks myself. But perhaps if there’s 
anything worth seeing by and by you might 
come down and wake me up. How about 
Miss Hooper? Have you persuaded her to 
join you? ” 

“ No,” said Jean, “ she thinks she won’t 
stay up all night but she’ll come up at three, 
if we think it’s worth while. Oh, thank you 


HOMEWARD BOUND 


313 


so much, Dad, I knew you’d do it after you 
thought it over. Now let’s get the steward 
to help us with our steamer chairs.” 

It took but a little while to get the chairs 
carried up on deck and arranged to Jean’s 
satisfaction, close to the rail, not far from 
the bridge and the captain’s quarters. The 
girls had put on the heaviest clothes they had, 
and after seating themselves in the chairs, 
Miss Hooper tucked their rugs around them 
and made them as comfortable as possible, then 
bidding them good-night she and Mr. Cabot 
went away and left them, sole monarchs of 
all they surveyed. 

It was indeed a wonderful night, with the 
moon and the stars above them and the calm 
ocean below. Gradually all sounds ceased, 
save for the steady tramp of the officers on 
the bridge, the water as it splashed against 
the sides of the boat, and the night watches 
as they rung out on the clear air. At first 
the girls talked lightly about the mock trial and 
incidents of the life on shipboard, then they 
drifted into more serious matters and finally 
each told the other, in a burst of confidence, 


314 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


their most secret longings and aspirations. 
Then, as it was hard to go back to trivial 
things again they said little and occasionally 
if eyes closed they were quickly opened by 
the warning whisper, “ Are you awake, 
Jean?’' or ‘‘Beth?” as the case might be. 
And then, although they both declared after- 
ward that they were wide awake at the time, 
they were surprised to hear a deep voice say- 
ing, “ Pardon, young ladies, but it’s quarter 
of four and the comet is visible with the aid 
of the telescope.” 

They arose quickly and found an officer 
standing near them, telescope in hand. He 
showed them how to adjust the lens to their 
eyes and pointing out the location of the comet 
left them to call the captain. The girls were 
taking turns gazing at the tail of the comet, 
which was dimmed by the brightness of the 
stars and the moon, when the captain came 
up to where they were standing. With his 
naked eye he located the comet, and then 
asked Jean what she thought of it. 

“ Well, I must admit that I’m disappointed ; 


HOMEWARD BOUND 315 

it’s so little and not at all like Halley’s Comet,” 
she said. 

‘‘ That’s true,” said the captain, ‘‘ but it’s 
much farther away, and this is the first time 
it has come near enough the earth to be visi- 
ble. Then besides, it’s too bright a night to 
really see its beauty. But still. I’m glad to 
see it even under these conditions; comets 
aren’t so common yet that one should sniff 
at them. But how have you enjoyed the 
night?” 

‘‘ Oh,” said Jean, ** it has been a wonderful 
experience and I wouldn’t have missed it for 
anything. Do you think we ought to call the 
others ? ” 

Yes,” said the captain, for with the glass 
one caught a very good view of it,” ^and 
straightway Jean and Elizabeth hurried to 
call Mr. Cabot, Miss Hooper and the dozen 
or so other people who had asked to be called. 
About six responded to the call and came up 
gradually on upper deck to join the Astron- 
omy class,” as Mr. Cabot facetiously called 
it. Most of them thought the sight worth get- 


3i6 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


ting up in the middle of the night to see, and 
those who didn’t, kept their opinions to them- 
selves. However, they all seemed rather will- 
ing to return to the nice warm beds they had 
left, and only Miss Hooper remained with the 
two girls, for they had announced their in- 
tention to finish out the night there and see a 
sunrise on the ocean, and had persuaded Miss 
Hooper to enjoy it with them. The captain 
brought out his comfortable Morris chair and 
rugs for her and left them to enjoy the rest 
of the night. 

When all was quiet again they caught sight 
of a speck of light on the distant horizon and 
decided it was the headlight of an approach- 
ing steamer. They became so interested in 
watching its approach that they left their 
chairs and stood in the bow of the boat in 
order to have a better view. Gradually, be- 
fore they were aware of it, the first pale colors 
of approaching dawn rose above the horizon 
and spread a faint purplish tint over the sky 
and waters. Then it deepened and changed 
imperceptibly to pink and grew rosier and 
rosier until at last the great red sun burst into 


HOMEWARD BOUND 317 

sight and mounted up into the heavens still 
^dotted with the fading stars. Silent stood 
‘^the three/’ speechless before this miracle of 
the birth of another day, and immovable until 
the tread of the deck-hands and the splash of 
water warned them that the deck was about 
to receive its morning bath and they were not 
alone. Going to their chairs, they gathered up 
their possessions and went slowly below in 
the direction of their stateroom, Jean de- 
claring it was the most wonderful experience 
she had ever had in her life, far better than 
cathedrals or palaces or mountains or lakes 
and worth crossing the ocean twice to see. 
Then she admitted that she was going to try 
to get a little sleep, for she was entered in 
the shuffle-board tournament that afternoon 
and she did want to make a creditable showing. 

After luncheon that day Jean and her 
father were walking together and down the 
deck when suddenly her father said, ‘‘Jean, 
I’ve just discovered that to-day is Miss 
Hooper’s birthday. I don’t believe she’s told 
anybody about it. She didn’t tell me but I 
found it out by accident. Now what do you 


3i8 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


say if you and I give her a little surprise-party 
to-night. We can speak for one of the small 
dining-rooms and have a little party all by 
ourselves, just we four I mean. What do you 
say? You can leave all the particulars to me, 
for I know you’ll be busy all the afternoon in 
the tournament but I haven’t anything else to 
do.” 

Oh, I think it will be splendid. Dad, but 
can’t we have some other people too ? 
Wouldn’t you like the captain ? ” 

No, I think this time we’ll just have our 
own family, as it were, if you don’t mind. 
Seems to me it would be better as long as 
it’s a surprise for Miss Hooper.” 

‘^All right,” said Jean, ‘‘just as you say, 
you know it’s your party.” But all the after- 
noon she kept wondering to herself why her 
father who generally liked all the people he 
could possibly collect around him, should, on 
this particular occasion, be so satisfied with a 
few. But she said nothing and played with 
a recklessness that alarmed her partner who 
banked on her usual steady playing to win the 
game. 


\ 


HOMEWARD BOUND 319 

When the four took their places at the 
daintily set table in a small room off the main 
dining-room they were delighted with the 
preparations which Mr. Cabot had made, for 
every detail was as carefully arranged as 
though Miss Hooper had attended to it her- 
self. Course after course followed each other 
and laughter and good wishes made glad the 
heart of Miss Hooper. She had never seemed 
so happy and radiant, and the two girls watched 
her with wonder. Finally it came time for 
the toasts, and Mr. Cabot arose and with glass 
in hand asked permission to give the first toast. 
He looked from one to another of the little 
group and then with firm voice said, ‘‘ My 
toast to Miss Hooper. To you — Elizabeth’s 
best friend, — Jean’s new mother, — and my 
promised wife,” and then pushing his chair 
back he walked over to where Miss Hooper 
sat and kissing her, slipped a flashing diamond 
upon the third finger of her left hand. Then 
he led her to Jean, who had also risen and 
stood staring fixedly at the two. 

Aren’t you going to say anything, Jean? ” 
asked her father as he stood before her. 


320 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


'' Why — yes/’ she stammered, as soon as I 
can get my breath. But, Dad, why didn’t you 
tell me before, so I could have been prepared? 
Oh, Fm very glad to have Miss Hooper for 
my mother, but I’m awfully sorry, too, for 
now I can’t take her math, course and I did 
want to show her what I can do when I try,” 
and she burst out crying at the surprise and 
joy of it all. Miss Hooper comforted her 
and finished by saying, ‘‘ And you can take the 
math, course, dear, for I have told your father 
that I must return to Ashton this year, or at 
least the first semester, and there is nothing I 
shall anticipate more than your excellent work 
in my class.” After Jean had recovered, and 
dried her tears she looked at her father know- 
ingly and said, ‘‘ Now, Dad, I know why you 
had to go to London on important business. 
I suppose there wasn’t a diamond good enough 
for you in all Liverpool.” And her father 
laughed and admitted she was right. 

The news of the engagement spread like 
wildfire over the boat next day and everybody 
came to extend their congratulations with that 
knowing air of, I told you so,” for Mr. 


HOMEWARD BOUND 


321 


Cabot had been too devoted to his daughter’s 
chaperone to escape the notice of even the 
most unobserving. When the captain came 
up to them he said, “ I knew it the first minute 
I set eyes on you, Mr. Cabot, for I said some- 
thing’s the matter with that man, and if I’m 
any judge he’s in love; and it didn’t take me 
long to discover the cause of it all. Allow 
me to offer my congratulations.” And so it 
went all day until it seemed as though all the 
nice things in the world had been said to them 
both. But toward the end of the afternoon 
one old lady said, I guess they’ve had enough 
people talking to them to-day. I rather think 
they’d like to be left alone. Such folks gen- 
erally do,” and her remarks seemed to win the 
approbation of the two principals, as least, 
and they were left to themselves for a little 
while. 

The only other excitement of the day was 
the heavy fog that settled over everything as 
they approached the Banks of Newfoundland. 
Now and then it would lift a little, and once 
to the astonishment and almost horror of 
those close to the rail they heard some piercing 


322 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


cries and looking down in the water they dis- 
covered a small dory with two men from one 
of the large fishing vessels, tossing on the 
waves so close to the great liner that it seemed 
only a miracle that it had not struck upon it 
and buried it forever. The captain told them 
that it was always foggy on the Banks and 
probably hundreds of these small boats were 
destroyed by the large vessels which cut them 
down in the fog. 

After they passed the Banks it seemed as 
though the journey were nearly ended, and 
preparations began to be made for the landing. 
The captain assured them they would arrive 
in New York not later than Wednesday morn- 
ing, and perhaps some time the night before. 
Jean and Elizabeth went to bed early Tuesday 
night and left Miss Hooper and Mr. Cabot 
to enjoy their last night on deck for they 
would not have much more time together, as 
Mr. Cabot felt obliged to start Thursday for 
California, having received important letters 
which necessitated his return. Miss Hooper 
came in so quietly that neither of the girls 
awoke and knew anything about the lateness 


HOMEWARD BOUND 323 

of the hour. Sometime afterward all three 
of them sat up in bed with a start and Jean 
exclaimed, with a tone of real alarm in her 
voice, ‘‘ What's happened ? The machinery’s 
stopped. Shall I get out the life preservers? ” 
They jumped out of their beds and Miss 
Hooper peeped out of the window. Oh, it’s 
nothing after all, but that we’re in New York 
harbor, and we’ll have to wait here until morn- 
ing to be towed in to the dock. It does give 
one an awful shock though, to stop suddenly 
like that.” 

“ Yes,” said Elizabeth, and do you re- 
member, Jean, when we were going over, the 
captain told you what a scare it would give 
you if the machinery of the boat ever stopped? 
You laughed at him then but I guess you be- 
lieve it now.” 

I do indeed,” said Jean, “ and I’m mighty 
glad it’s in New York harbor this time instead 
of in mid ocean. Well, it can’t be much after 
midnight; I’m ready for some more sleep. 
Probably we’ll make an early landing, won’t 
we, Miss Hooper?” 

I hope so, dear, but one seldom does, 


324 jean in the BRITISH ISLES 


there is so much red tape about it. Shall you 
be glad to be on land again? ” 

‘‘ Yes, indeed, and I’m so anxious to see 
Tom and get back to college it just seems as 
though I couldn’t wait. What train shall we 
take?” 

‘‘ I think if everything goes all right we can 
take the noon express to Boston and get out 
to Ashton sometime in the evening. I am 
sorry we shall be a day late, but I don’t see 
how it can be helped. Do you realize that 
you two girls are sophomores now and have 
all the responsibilities of upper-class girls? 
But there, we mustn’t talk any more now for 
we’ll keep our next-door neighbors awake and 
they’ll scold us in the morning. Get into bed 
as quickly as you can. I hope you haven’t 
caught cold, Elizabeth, without your kimona.” 
And without another word the three ” were 
soon asleep, two of them probably dreaming 
of college days and college girls again. 

As they walked down the gangplank in the 
morning, Tom came rushing up to them and 
seizing Miss Hooper’s hands exclaimed, ‘‘ Con- 
gratulations, Miss — er — Mrs. Cabot-to-be. 


HOMEWARD BOUND 


325 


You’ll have the best husband in the world and 
the worst family of boys you ever heard of?’ 

Why — er — Tom,” said his father, how 
in the world did you know about it? I in- 
tended this as a surprise for you.” Then seeing 
a knowing look that passed between Jean and 
Tom he burst out laughing, Oh, this is one 
of Jean’s pranks I’m sure. I never thought 
of wireless until this very minute. Well, 
Jean’s saved me a lot of trouble, for of course 
you’ve told everybody, Tom.” 

"'You bet I have. Governor, and I was 
mighty proud to do it too, for the first time 
I set my eyes on Miss Hooper I knew she was 
a woman right after my own heart. But, peo- 
ple, before I forget to tell you. Aunt Sarah 
intended to come down with me to meet you 
but at the last moment she was detained at 
home. However, she expects you all for 
luncheon and to stay with her as long as you 
can. Excuse me for being personal, but what 
are your plans, anyway ? ” 

Then Mr. Cabot explained that college had 
opened that very day and Miss Hooper felt 
obliged to return by the very first train so he 


326 JEAN IN THE BRITISH ISLES 


had decided to go over with them on the noon 
express. He should take the midnight back 
and start for California the next noon. Tom 
was disappointed that they could not all re- 
main longer in the city, but as it was impos- 
sible there was nothing to do but get over 
his disappointment. He went with them to 
Aunt Sarah’s for a brief call and then to Grand 
Central Station, where they just barely caught 
their train. Then he returned to the office and 
tried to settle down again to hard work. 

On the train Jean and Elizabeth were sit- 
ting together and saying every few minutes. 
Why doesn’t the train go faster ? ” Shall 
we ever reach Bosfon ? ” ‘‘ What do you 

suppose the freshmen will be like ? ” “ Can 

you realize that we’re actually sophomores ? ” 
and finally Jean whispered to Elizabeth, And 
do you realize that the first thing that’s going 
to happen to you after you get comfortably 
settled is your initiation into glorious old 
Gamma Chi ? ” And Elizabeth whispered 
back, ‘‘Yes, how I dread it! Will it be very 
bad?” Then before they realized it the train 
pulled into the familiar old South Station and 


HOMEWARD BOUND 


327 

their summer vacation was a thing of the 
past. 

Another volume entitled ‘‘Jean Cabot in 
Cap and Gown describing Jean’s experi- 
ences senior year will appear in the near 
future. 







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